DoctorLarry

Typical setup:

73 Big Block Chevelle:

Paul, I saw the Can Am kit on EBAY. Body sort of looks like mine although there was another person doing a body before me. Inside of the body looks awful and the interior and chassis are castings directly from a Jo-Han 1975 Cutlass, not accurate at all for the Can Am. Thanks for the heads up.

Looks like you are a very quick learner. Very clean and represents the JDM look well!

There is aluminum there that was usually covered up by decals.

Generally I would use a light primer under lighter colors. Light gray for example. Under darker colors dark gray or red oxide. So for yellow I would personally use a light gray primer. It would cover much better than red oxide. Just my take.

I don't know how you find the time to keep them moving. Mine go in fits and starts. This was another beautiful outcome. Did you do body mods on this one or use the stock body?

T Bird chassis? I have one sitting along with a Monte Carlo. I'm trying to finish the Buicks first.

I'm like Gerald- "box stock" has little meaning so I am as slow as anyone. I think Tim has an assembly line in his house somewhere. He must have a replica of Junior Johnson's shop in miniature.

The clear did cause some crazing of the foil decals on my Olds. The clear film decals did fine. Thanks for the tip about putting clear film over them. I ordered a new decal set and will replace the foil 28 numbers on the side but now I know better.

You can build it out of the box but the body lacks some lines in it, the chassis is the old MPC NASCAR chassis with torsion bars and leaf springs, although the new kits have upgraded suspension. The seat is also out of the old MPC kit and it was wrong. So I modified the body to get it right, re-engineered the chassis is to make it accurate, added a correct seat and modified the cage (it was lacking some bars). So, do you need to do all that to make a nice model? No. Scale Auto Magazine had an article on a box stock build and it was exceptionally well done. Very neat when done. I just wanted to see what it would take to make it better reflect the real car. Not necessary, but that's just me.

I think it is time to call this one done. Body does not fit that well, chassis has a little warp to it, decals got funky but overall it was fun to do. I used the "updated" grilles and bumpers. I had to widen the back one because I modified the body and it took two hours of filing to get the grilles to fit. Next time I will dry fit everything like most of you all do before painting. Oh well, live and learn.

My father bought one of the first 3 A100 vans in the state of California in 1964

Is that a D100 in your avatar?

Looks like some hard work going on in the background there! Car looks good.

Saw the pic-they look great. I have found that for small areas like window moldings, I can brush Molotow and it looks okay. The pens are sometimes hard to control. Molotow does NOT brush well on bigger things like bumpers.

It is regular chrome and is probably old but it did not want to stick. I tried it on the Cutlass and gave up and went to Molotow pen.

Bare Metal foil around the windows? I can't seem to get it to stick. Maybe the adhesive is no good after awhile.

Aluminum pulleys and rubber belts? How did you make the fuel lines? Inquiring minds want to know. Looks great. Very cleanly detailed.

Was the length about the same?

Pulleys and dry sump pump from the T Bird as well?

Well, good to know. I am not going to change it now though!

Has anyone built one of the Salvino's kits with all the parts, including the engine? It has no detail and scale-wise looks way off. Anybody found a way to snazz it up?

Tim, what did you use for an engine?

Boy that's for sure!