DoctorLarry

That's what I saw when I researched a little more. I was looking for a 68 Buick Skylark and he did a pretty good one that I believe someone else mastered for him. But his reputation was pretty bad. When they pop up on EBAY they get great money for them.

Looks great! One thing I don't like about these kits is the absolutely lame carburetors they put in. The don't look anything like a real one. I guess it doesn't matter with the air cleaner on, though.

Looks really good. My brother's Duster had a GREEN interior. I mean leaf green. I think he got an "ugly car nobody wants" deal at the dealership.

Tamiya Insignia White, which is from their aircraft paints, gives exactly the right shade of gray in a matte finish. Might save you some time and $$ if you only spray once. If you prime it first, a moot point.

I noticed that last night. The kit tires are shorter and wider than the Monograms. Current size, as far as I can find, is a 28 10 /15. I haven't scaled that out. but probably a little over an inch in 1/25.

What do you use for tires? When I compare the scale kit tires to pictures, they always look way too small relative to the real cars. I use the Monogram 1/24 tres whenever possible because they are larger but other kit tires seem too small. Am I missing something?

Did you go over the decals with it afterwards, Bill?

I bet putting headers on that car would be a study in maintaining dignity and composure...

My brother bought a brand new Duster in 73 or 74. It was this same baby food yellow with a green bench seat interior (Don't know what he was thinking). 340 four barrel. It had rally wheels and white letter tires and actually was a rather fun car to drive. Then he made the mistake of trying to put headers on it. Typical Chrysler snake pit around the steering, etc. What a nightmare. Sounded good when he finally got it done, though.

Beautiful ride, Tim!

Tamiya AS-20 Insignia White is a nice matte light gray that shows detail when used on chassis. It is one of their aircraft colors but looks good for chassis.

If you have an airbrush, use really thick paint and set the air pressure so it will just spray out and it should splatter quite well. As an alternative, Rust Oleum makes texture paint that will produce an uneven finish. Use more distance and it should look fine.

Thanks, guys. I have done custom painting since I was a teenager and so have experience with interactions (mostly lacquer-enamel or urethane-enamel). Since this is basically an ammonia-based acrylic from what I have read, it would seem the interactions would be from the ammonia and not the acrylic because the acrylic should be pretty benign over cured enamels or lacquers. I rarely use water based finishes on stuff so I could see some issues if used over acrylics but maybe not.

Thanks, Peter. I read both the post and Swannie's site. Like you, I was trying to see what the latest millennial version of the acrylic finish was so I did not inadvertently dump floor stripper on a freshly painted body. It was more about the proper version of the finish (which took 3 different store outings to find) than how to use it. But thanks for the tip!

I'm going to get one. My understanding is that if you don't de-gas the mold rubber you will get bubbles showing up anyway. I will try it out and see.

Sweet!

Is Perry's Resins still operating? They have a website but it appears to be archived. I probably missed the boat on this one but anybody know?

The Future thread posted here says that bottle label was circa 2015. The one I posted I just bought so I'll do as you say. Larry

How old is that bottle, Mark? It may have been re-branded again. LB

Thanks, Mike. I'm not really a big NASCAR guy either but I love building the vintage cars. Much more interesting than today. I love researching the builds as much as the builds themselves, particularly interesting unheard of guys.

I need to build a pot to do that in. Did you vacuum the mold rubber first?

Forgot the steering wheel and window net!

Top side is almost done. Got the harness done (real pain in the neck). seat mounted, engine detailing done. Got a driveshaft made and installed. Final details are shroud, air cleaner, headers and exhaust then ready for body fitting.

Gerald, are you pressure casting these?

Heat shrink tubing split with scissors. I have also taken an old computer power cord and stripped off the insulation. Either looks good.