Goodwrench3

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I'm trying to focus on just enjoying the activity of building and not putting 100% of my satisfaction on the "result". I've learned over years that it leads to very few completed builds and a lot of undue stress over how good the finished model is and I've lost a lot of enjoyment as a result.

LOL ... sounds like they could just as well name that set the "Wisconsin set" -- we've got all three on cars here ?

Thanks -- I've got a couple different sets on my bench. This would be another really good YouTube video to do.

I actually applied the contingency clusters right over the big green panel without any setting solution (I was just too afraid to). I applied setting solution over the body below the green panel where the cluster extended down to. Everything was fine. The cluster decal laid down just fine over the big green decal, so it was a non-issue. I was just a bit nervous -- even after letting the large green panel dry for a couple days -- about putting Microset on it, since there are instructions on the Microset bottle for using it to REMOVE applied decals. EEK ! LOL. I'm sure you probably have to apply quite a bit of it before you would "unstick" an applied decal. @james460 -- I've seen several posts about using a "Tamiya weathering stick" to tone down the tire lettering. I know there are a LOT of Tamiya weathering powders available. Which are you using for this ? Thanks!

I doubt I will ever use these again. I used them a couple of times back in 1989-90 and then put them back in the package. I'd be willing to sell 'em.

Found them yesterday while going through stuff in my "stash" -- what a trip down memory lane ?

Yeah -- I love these old pics of "the man" wrenching on stuff. ? It's too bad that all of the older Monogram NASCAR kits all had the valve covers with the heat shield molded in on them. Clearly that was not the case all the time as shown in that picture.

Actually I ended up taking the advice from someone -- Paint it with Tamiya gloss white, then apply Tamiya grey panel line wash, then put on a coat of Tamiya flat clear.

This is a picture of Dale wrenching on the engine with the #2 Wrangler Pontiac behind him. On the early 1980's Chevy engines, I've seen chrome and cast aluminum valve covers -- but rarely black ones ? Anyone know what kind those are ?

Looks awesome !!!! Hey -- one question. With the Rustoleum spray paint -- did you have any issue with it drying to a "hard" finish in a reasonable time ? I just finished a Bobby Allison Buick and used the Rustoleum "2X Painters Touch" flat black primer spray paint on the chassis and roll cage. It seemed like even after a couple days it felt "soft" or a little "tacky". I used the Rustoleum "2X Painters Touch" gloss white spray paint on the body (over Rustoleum gray primer) and it too seemed like it wasn't really "hard" and dry until at least a week or more after spraying it. Did you have this issue ? Thanks

I was kind of curious why you decided to use the Testors lacquer paint rather than Tamiya TS lacquer ? (since you used the Tamiya primer) Just curious if there was a particular reason. Thanks

Yup. That's where I was. This is the first kit I've **FINISHED** in 20+ years. I've got a lot of stuff half built -- parked because it's not "perfect" .. or "contest worthy". I'm done with that. I'm having FUN again.

Thank you ! I'm moving away from the "perfectionism" mentality to the "just have fun building". I need to just enjoy building again. I don't build to enter contests. I just enjoy the 1980's NASCAR era.

Finished last night. Built start to finish in 30 days (a record time for me !). It's not perfect -- it has a few "issues", but I'm happy that I FINISHED it ? Unfortunately, the Salvinos JR Buick kits have a real "fit" issue with the windshield. I think on the next Buick I'll raid my "stash" and use one out of one of my old Monogram kits.

Thank you ! I get very nervous posting my work here with so many really nice builds shown by everyone.

Here it is. No, it's not perfect. It's got a few "issues"... but it's DONE !!!! Unfortunately, the Salvinos JR kits have a "fit" issue with their windshields. Oh well. I'm happy I finished it.

IT'S DONE !!!!!!!!!! PICTURE TOMORROW !!! YES !!!!

RE: "Testors white lacquer" -- any primer under it ? If so, which ? What gray did you use for the chassis ? Looks awesome.

I LOVE that car !! It was very sad that Bobby's career was cut short with that Pocono wreck. ?

Just glued in the rear window in my 1982 Buick -- I used Testors clear parts cement and window maker. Worked great. What I really liked is that it took a "set" pretty quick. I had to hold the window down with my finger for it to conform to the curve a bit -- but not long. The glue "set" fairly quickly.

I've got one of those too ! Man... I think I bought it like 30 years ago. I'm not even sure I can find them in the basement now.

RE: "Striving for perfection leads to unhappiness." -- so true. So so true. I've "started" a lot of builds over the last few years and then parked them when something wasn't "perfect" -- or not "up to par" with the builds I see here. So, nothing gets finished and it just led to frustration and no enjoyment for me in the building. I'm done with that. I've got a "stash" that I can't see over in my basement. And only a handful of built models on the shelf to look at. No more. I'm now just getting them done in 30 days and what they look like is what it will be. I realize that the enjoyment just has to be in the fun of building -- and not whether the final product is "perfect" or "as good as others I see posted". I've got 90% of the decals on tonight -- just need to add the contingency clusters and the door numbers tomorrow night and it's finished. All within 30 days (and we were away for a weekend during that time). I hope maybe others can relate to this and I'm not the only one in this boat. I've enjoyed this build much more since I'll have something FINISHED on the shelf to look at and enjoy. ?

Super. Thanks. I did the tires last night -- worked great. One last question -- putting decals on top of another decal. On this Bobby Allison car, there is a green panel decal and then part of the contingency sponsor cluster decal goes on top of it. Is it OK to put Microset over a decal that has been applied and dried ? Or is that going to loosen/hurt the decal ? In other words, once a decal has dried, should you not put Microset on it again ?

Huh... "you can gloss clear over it and get the chrome look back." I never knew that. Thanks !

The Microset/Microsol stuff has worked really well. Are you guys using it when applying the Powerslide tire decals to the tires too ? Wasn't sure on this if it's a good idea or not on the tires ? Thanks!