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porschercr

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Everything posted by porschercr

  1. Molotow or Spaz Stix are your best options. Alclad2 chrome doesn't play nice, with clears.
  2. Personally, I wouldn't use a dehydrator with 3D printed parts, could deform them.
  3. Yes. American, See PM. Trevor
  4. Rear lights look so much better after your SB session Dann. Trevor
  5. Thanks all for the replies.
  6. I know Tamiya has it, but not for that price, so looking for alternatives.... lacquer based only.. Suggestions? Trevor
  7. Dann, Your scratch building is just amazing. Trevor
  8. Jacob, Thank you. Looks great! Trevor
  9. "the future is uncertain, and i'll be buggered if my kits/builds go to people who don't care, and there are certain cars that I HAVE TO BUILD before I check-out!!" I have to agree with you Dann.
  10. I need to do some sanding and perhaps putty on what I'm working on, however I have read the instructions from the website: "Bright Silver Candy Base: Shake thoroughly before use. Do not thin. Surfaces must be completely clean. Apply 1 medium coat at 20-30PSI to clean bare plastic. Dry time 15-30 minutes. As the carrier evaporates the shine will develop. Allow to cure for 1 hour before coating with Alclad Candy Enamels. Avoid using in excessively damp or humid conditions.Finger marks on the bare plastic will appear in the final finish." My question is, does anyone know if can I still use the Candy Base over primer, or should I use another type of Bright Silver, for the base? Thanks, Trevor
  11. I agree with "martinfan5" decent little compressor.
  12. Very nice.
  13. Well Done, Dann.
  14. Looks Outstanding.
  15. I'm guilty of the same thing.
  16. Just can't leave it alone, can you?
  17. #3 or #4
  18. I highly recommend the UMM-USA tools. I''ve got a drawer full of other types, and always go back to the UMM-USA scribers.
  19. Looks Outstanding!
  20. Looks good, JC.
  21. Great start JC. Always a a pleasure to see your work. Trevor
  22. Well said.
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