Nytrozilla

The wheelstander got relegated to the "unfinished" line until I'm better prepared for the metal work involved. This is my second Funny using this chassis, but I actually remember worse problems on the previous issue.

Thanks again folks. I'm all packed up and ready for today's Best of the West contest at the Orleans Casino. I hope it raises an eyebrow or two, The Koach will be in Box Stock and the Dragula in Straight Line / Open Wheel. I'll let y'all know how it went.

Thanks everybody Funny story. As I was cleaning the Koach prior to packing, I noticed the left rear fender was missing. Since I'm old, I searched the entire hobby room with a flashlight. No good. Then I checked the pics I took earlier. Nope, not there either. I found it in the briefcase I use for packing contest entries. It has been reattached.

Thanks guys. I'm getting ready for the IPMS Best of the West contest tomorrow, so hopefully an update early next week.

I've had the Munster Koach and Dragula for awhile and recently built a trailer for the Dragula. Now I've built a display for them. Enjoy

I've had a terrible track record of finishing builds lately and I'm trying to get back on track with a second attempt at an Out Of The Box model. (The 1st attempt was a 1/16 Hawaiian FC). I actually HAVE to finish this one, because there is a surprise with the completed build. Your only hint is, I said Out Of The Box. So here's where I stand so far. I'm ready for assembly of the chassis and the body is ready for paint. I'll mask off the front and rear windshield frames, along with the spoiler and tail light area. The body will get a silver base coat before HOK Pearl White. The tinwork will stay black. I've made some fire extinguisher brackets from stretched sprue and the parachute straps are cut from the instruction sheet and hit with a gold paint pen. The oil pan is the only piece of chrome that didn't get stripped and reshot with SpazStix Chrome. The seat belt decals are Slixx. The pad stamped tires (lettering is "off-arc") got scuffed all around. I used an Xtra Coarse file on the tread and a polishing sheet on the outer surfaces. I've finally been using my airbrush booth and I'm luvin' it. I got a little over aggressive on the headers, but I like it. Mods to the headers includes removing the molded in braces and making new ones from sprue. The ends still need to be drilled out One thing I might try is to make header flames out of the spare clear plastic from between the windshields. I'll cut away the windshields, then shape the excess into flames, shoot it with clear red, then highlight the edges with orange. They'll be attached using stretched sprue and inserted into the headers. See y'all next time around. Enjoy the pics.

It's always been my belief that every model must have a "Gotcha' Factor". This one has roughly a dozen. Congratz Art. Well deserved sir.

Great idea Brother Chris. Camera case foam comes to mind and I've got a ton of it.

Looking good Chris. You keep going that extra step to get it right with the chassis cert and the quick release, etc. I'm hating that I missed it. 12 months and counting........

I think you've earned this:

AHA!!!!!!!!! Found you where you thought I'd never look for ya, huh? I'm too slick for you Brad. I've got my unfinished 1/16 Hawaiin that had 2 failed paint jobs. I got the Vega wagon body and the Wonder Wagon decals, just waiting for paint. And motivation. I always heard about how the slicks collapse over time. Never saw it until now. Is there a fix prior to that happening? I don't think Goodyear makes a 1/16 inner liner and tube.

OMG OMG OMG PAINT OMG OMG OMG

I concur 100% on the canards Tim. I'm a big fan. Not for functionality, that subject's had a piano and an anvil dropped on it, then blew up. Canards are all about the look. They are just badd lookin'. I'm also in agreeance on the rear spoiler, although I could have lived with it. One more thing on the canards. Here's a pic of my Jungle Jim Charger phantom build, which is one of the correct ways to do it, in addition to putting them on the rear quarter panel. Following that is a pic of the wrong way to do it. Keep on rockin' Tim.

The header caps are what did it for me.

Last year was my first and I will continue to go for the rest of my natural life. You go for the models. You stay for the people. P.S. And the vendors.

No matter how many times I've watched this process, you never cease to amaze John.

This is gonna' take me a while Bro, as I have much to input on this choice. My first car was a 59 Dodge Coronet. My second car was a 62/63 Ford Fairlane 500. She was Deep Space Black, (I just made that up), and a paint shop cut a strip of finned / ribbed aluminum as an inset for the side trim. It was shot with metal flake gold. It looked sweet with the chrome trim. Now, a question must be asked. Is the front of the roof too low, or is the back too high? Lowering the back may cause roll cage clearance issues. Nextly, not only am I in love with the teardrop combo scoops, but it's a flip-front too? Good thing I've learned from past experience to have a spare oxygen bottle nearby. One final thought you may want to consider. The rear wheel wells are already close to being radiused. If you bring the top of the well higher, you might also want to fill in the back of the well where it extends back. Makes it look even more like an AWB or A/FX car. Condolences and best of luck and skill in whatever you decide to do. **COUGH** mustang**COUGH

This is the build where I got to know you my friend. It will always have a warm and special place in my brain pan. If your next build is a 1/43 Army truck, I'll still follow it. I just won't tell my friends.......... As David Gilmour says, "Take a breath; Take a deep breath......" Get your head back in the right place and Karma will tell you what to do next and when to do it. Well, I guess It wouldn't be right to end this without a silly picture:

I am so glad to have watched this from the beginning. So THAT'S what it's like to finish a model.......... You've made every Dodge lover proud.

That's just nuts Doc. Right up my alley.

Art, good call on the black valve stems. Rubber stems or a tube would have been right. Chrome or aluminum would have looked out of place.

That would be Model Master Deep Pearlescent Purple, available at better hobby shops or online.

Thanks guys. It's the first thing I've completed in months. Feels good to get that dragon off my back.

Woops!!! Guess I never got around to showing the completed job.