OutaFocus

A B/FX Comet with a 289 and Webers would be cool too. I guess you would also need a stock kit too as it looks like the B/FX cars had the normal shock towers.

Great article on the Dick Barbour LeMans effort: https://www.porscheroadandrace.com/dick-barbour-goes-to-le-mans/ And on the #70 car by itself: https://www.porscheroadandrace.com/the-old-warhorse/

Barbour ran two cars. #90 was a development of a 935/78 (77A) and #70 was rebuilt using a new Porsche Motorsports 935 tub #009 00030 from the wreckage of last years wrecked 935, itself converted from Barbour's old 934.5. #70 was the 2nd place car. Interestingly, the car was sold to Bob Garretson: "At the end of the season, the car was sold by Dick Barbour to Bob Garretson. That meant the car stayed ‘in house’ at Dick Barbour Racing, it just had a new owner. Dick had ordered a new Kremer car for the 1980 season. The 009 00030 car ran in the 24 hours of Daytona driven by Bob, Anny Verney and Skeeter McKitterick but at this point it was still running as a 935-79 with the stock factory setup. After Daytona, the car was back to the shop to be converted as a Kremer kit had been ordered, and this car was to be converted to K3 specification. The kit consisted of new front and rear fenders, new rear wing, new false rear window, new front air dam, and an air to air intercooler system. For Sebring, and the rest of the 1980 season, this car would be sponsored by Apple Computer. This was back in the early days before Apple was the household name it is today." So it also ran as a K3 with the Apple scheme as shone above. But what does any of that matter? We are getting an American run car that finished 2nd overall in 935 configuration! Hell, I wouldn't car if it started life as a 1963 VW Beetle...

Yup, looks like that to me too. It was driven by Dick Barbour, Paul Newman, and Rolf Stommelen. It finished 2nd overall and won the IMSA class that year. So Beemax is doing both the 1st and 2nd place overall finishers for 1979.

I agree that there is a ton of liveries that need to be done for this car. I can think of the Interscope/Danny Ongias car, the Bob Akin/ Coca-Cola car, the Preston Henn/T-Bird Swap Shop car, or the John Paul powder Blue one. However, the decals that look to be included in the kit are probably the most appropriate for the first version. After all, it was the 1979 LeMans winner of the Kremer Bros. It was the first K3 and the drivers have an international flavor. Klaus Ludwig and the Whittington Bros drove it at LeMans. The Whittingtons owned Road Atlanta and eventually went to prison for their huge pot business. The real car is now owned by Bruce Myer.

Yeah, when I hear S&S I think of Russ Schwenkler (sp?) and Mike Siegman and S&S Specialties, one of the pioneers in the Model Car Aftermarket. I still have a bunch of their stuff. I'd pick another name.

The closest one I know of is ACME in Smyrna, GA. http://www.acme-ipms.com/. It's an hour or so from Gainsville, but people travel tot he meetings from as far away as Athens Tennessee. I myself live in Blue Ridge about 1.5 hrs away. It's a well-attended meeting with 20 to 30 people at them. Our next meeting is Sunday 8/5 at 2:30 at the Smyrna Community Center. We also have a Facebook page and a Youtube channel.

Thanks for the replies, guys. Good info here. I'll contact Norm, but I checked the Finks Garage site, but it doesn't look like there are any engines available, or if the site is even still active. Pity, that's just what I was looking for.

I've searched around with no luck, so I hope someone here can help. I'm putting together a split window Beetle using the Best Model Car Parts conversion for the Tamiya Beetle. I want to build it in a sort of Cal-Look style. Does anyone know of a source for wheels, engine parts, or other performance or style stuff for Beetles? I know about the P.E. set for the Fujimi Porsche 356 engine, but I'm looking for Weber manifolds, Extractor exhausts, wheels...any parts sources would really help, Thanks in advance!

All AMC V8 Engines from 290 through the 401 have the same block dimensions. In fact, the block casting has the displacement cast into the passenger side of the block. So any kit AMC engine would be the basis for the T/A engine externally. In 1970 the SCCA changed the engine rules to encourage more manufacturers to participate. Prior to 1970, the rules stated that any engine of 5 liters (305 ci) was eligible for the series. That's why the early Dart cars used the 273 ci as its basis for their T/A engine and the Ford used the 289 then the 302 as it's basis for their T/A engine. Chevrolet used the bore of a 327 and the stroke of the 283 to come up with the 302 as homologated in the Z/28 for their entrant. In 1970 the rule was changed to allow a manufacturer to de-stroke an existing production engine to fit the 5-liter limit. That's why the Z/28 in 1970 used the LT1 350 rather than continue with the limited production (and expensive to produce in small numbers) 302. Chrysler Corp and AMC could now enter the series without resorting to homologating a special 5-liter engine, although AMC did have a 304 ci engine they could have used. AMC did homologate a heavy duty block in the Mark Donahue edition SST Javelin. It was a 360 ci engine with a special block with thicker webbing that would accept aftermarket 4 bolt main caps even though the production engine still utilized 2 bolt caps. Ok, so after this long winded post, the bottom line is any available AMC engine would be a good start for your T/A Javelin build. Nice start by the way.

Wow! It must be getting close. This is the first place taking preorders, and discounted too! https://freetimehobbies.com/1-25-salvinos-jr-models-buddy-baker-nascar-plastic-model-kit-preorder/

Cartograf

Nevermind...

And on top of this kit, you would really need Harold Bradford's GT-40 engine kit to look more correct

Best price I've seen so far on the Butch Leal and Golden Commandos Kits: Leal: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323031753901 GC: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323032362370 I know it's an auction, but they are starting low.

These are a direct recast of the Verlinden Bolts. I don't know if Verlinden still sells them, but they are a direct copy.

RoG jumped the gun and released their info. That's why the kit # is RoG. The U.S. kept their mouths shut, but RoG let the cat out of the bag before they were supposed to.

It's real. U.S. kit to release first followed by RoG version. No firm release date.

Foose FD-100 kit in my hands right now. They're out there my LHS got them in yesterday. It looks like a really nice kit.

Yeah, as was said in a post above, I doubt Shapeways adds anything to the printing material, but who knows what it's made from. Perhaps something in the chemical makeup is reacting with the RTV. Sealing the master is a good start if it can be done without destroying the detail. As was already suggested,testing it on some RTV before making another mold is a good idea.

If the master contains sulfur it will react with certain RTVs. Platinum cure RTV is very sensitive to sulfur and some other substances. I try to only use a tin cure RTV as it is more tolerant of most substances. I use Kleen Klay if I need clay to make a mold because it is sulfur free. I have no idea of the chemical makeup of the 3D part, but I would assume it's something in it that is reacting with your RTV.

The artwork for those decals was done by Russ Quaterman and produced by Microscale, who at one time, and may still, print Slixx decals. When I had those decals done (printed on the same sheet as the Gapp & Roush Pinto P/S decals and then cut apart) the Slixx guys saw them at Microscale they told me they liked them alot.

Us Mac users just go on with our day as most attacks are aimed at Windows. They go after the big fish...J/K. Seriously, UBlock Origin is one of the best as blockers I have used. It not only blocks all of the ads (I disable it on the sites I believe in and want to support) but, it blocks the ads at the beginning of YouTube videos. I run this and the Ad Block+ plugins for both FireFox and Chrome and I never see an ad unless I want to.

Ahh, answers my question. Guess I should read!

Parts look great,as usual for Modelhaus, but where is the 69 RR grill? It was different than the 68 RR and 69 GTX. When we did our 69 RR 440-6 conversion we put the center of a JoHan 69 grill in an AMT 69 grill frame. I sent all of our masters to Perry's resin, so I don't know about the availability nowadays.