Marc @ MPC Motorsports

Nick, I think it is a big block Chevy but I'm not sure.

When I first saw the topic, I thought it was the Shelby Super Snake Prudhomme Mustang. Personally I think that Mustang is the ugliest one ever made. But I opened the post and saw this beaut of a digger! Great work as always, Drew, and the decals make it. Thanks for sharing.

Ryan, I brush paint the inside of a body after I have applied BMF and any other outside trim. I use Testors Acryl Aircraft Interior Black for the main body will use it for the headliner area if the car has a black interior. Otherwise, I'll use an acrylic Testors or Tamiya paint that is color coordinated to the interior trim. I use acrylics here as they are safer on a lacquer paint job if you accidently get some on the exterior finish because the solvents will not attack the base cost. Hope this helps, Marc

Very clean and nice. This one earns the MPC Motorsports seal of approval!

Where have you been hiding? Haven't seen you around these parts in a long time! You need a 1980's issue MPC Super Charger kit and a flat hood from Time Machine Resins. Those kits show up on Ebay all the time and shouldn't cost you an arm and a leg.

I use a "Rubbermaid-type" small plastic box with a lid to contain the purple stuff. I don't keep it forever. I find it loses its effectiveness after you strip two or three models in a short time, so I dispose of it and get new. At $5/gal at Wal-Mart it's too cheap not to use fresh. The lid on this particular container is not air tight, so it evaporates in time anyway. I've heard stories of builders keeping this stuff forever, but not this one.

Industry insiders will tell you that Ebay is not a good indicator of future kit sales.

Good luck with your email campaign. However, 100 signatures on an email will not a model truck kit produce. Historically, they have not been good sellers and there is no reason to believe that there is a guaranteed market for one today. Now, if each of you 100 were willing to contribute $25,000 towards tooling, manufacturing, distribution, and marketing of a new model truck kit...

Who doesn't love Camaros? I have more Camaro kits than I can remember and belong to the former Camaro owner club, having restored and daily drove a 1974 between 1991 and 1999.

Looking good!!! Too bad there aren't any decent scale sized turbos. Those turbos on your car would scale out to 12" in diameter or more. That's one huge hair dryer!!! Please post some engine pics as I would like to see more.

Roger, All of the old Fairlane kits up thru the AMT 1969 Torino kit came with the underhood details molded in. Interesting because the AMT 1966-67 Mercury Cyclone annuals, while sharing the same body style, did not have them.

Very sharp looking ride!!!

Aaron, I've used Aoshima wheels on numerous AMT and MPC models. Here's what I do. You need some Evergreen 3/16" styrene tubing and a 3/16" drill bit. Take the 3/16" bit and using your hands only, ream out the opening on the backside of the wheel. Then, cut a length of the 3/16" tubing to fit and insert into the wheel. I don't use the poly caps when doing this as I build vintage model kits that come with metal axles. I insert a length of Evergreen 1/8" tubing inside of the 3/16" tube. Give this a try and see if this helps you out.

Brookfield's were plastic promos. You can find them on Ebay.

You can use flocking for underhood insulation too.

I use these Kikkoman soy sauce bottles. I have bought about 10 or 12 of them over the years. They have a flat sturdy bottom and I use masking tape to attach the body. It fits well in your hand and is easy to rotate while you paint. You can also use that "sticky tack" stuff to attach small parts for painting too. Very versatile.

I just spent a relaxing evening polishing paint? I'm sure that has to be an oxymoron to most of you, but to me, it works. Much like I get when I do BMF, I get in a zone that is incredibly relaxing. I have had pretty stressful couple of weeks, between annual financial audit and bank change at work and the passing of my 94 year old grandmother. So, after putting in another 12 hour day at work, I decided to hit the bench tonight and polish the Mustang. I used my usual formula of 3600 and 4000 grit Micro Mesh, Wizard's Finish Cut and Meguier's #7 Show Car Glaze. Here's the result of about two hours work. I still need to get some nooks and crannies with the #7 on a Q-Tip, but it is now ready for BMF. Enjoy!!!

Be still my heart!!! You are BUILDING a mint MPC 1971 Cuda kit!!! Beautiful work on the decals. Can't wait to see it finished. Are you using the "metal axle" chassis and if not, what are you using? Old models are meant to be built, then they can gather dust. BTW...I just got a mint, unbuilt '71 just like that one. I have two builders but just had to have a "new" one. It too, will get built.

Tamiya is the best and it's all I use. The others work if you can't get Tamiya.

Testors enamel primer really isn't primer. You should use Testors Model Master lacquer primer, Tamiya lacquer primer, or Duplicolor Sandable Automotive primer. Testors enamel primer won't dry and is not sandable.

What brand/type of primer did you use? This bit of information will help us help you prevent this from happening again.

Precisely why I bought a Pace Paint Booth. Nothing more to add.

Len, I have airbrushed HOK thinned with Gunze Mr Color thinner over Tamiya primer. You still need to "sneak" up on it a little bit with light coats, but not as much as with regular lacquer thinner. Tamiya now sells a lacquer thinner that is similar to Gunze and should provide similar results. Marc

Len, I used T-235 in the early 2000's before I started using Tamiya primer. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is all I use now, both white and grey. Marc

Me too!!! If someone will master it, I'm sure it could get cast in a hurry.