Marc @ MPC Motorsports

My thoughts exactly!!! One scheme I'm thinking about is white with black stripe (Grumpy's Toy), but I'll probably dip into the House Of Kolor palette for this one for something a little more exotic.

Thanks for the feedback! I want something a little different for the powertrain, so I'm thinking LT-5 from a ZR-1 Corvette or a rat motor with Arias Hemi heads and TPI. I'll see what I come up with. I'm still undecided on the color too. My first instinct is red with a black nose stripe, but I'm working on other ideas. Stay tuned... Marc @ MPC Motorsports

Does this answer your question? Aoshima 19" Blitz Techno Speed Z4 wheels with Revell tuner tires on the front. Powertrain yet to be determined.

I probably spent 8 hours this weekend massaging the body of the Camaro. Here's where I am after a light coat of Tamiya primer. I repaired all the glue damaged areas, opened up the spaces under the grille, raised the windshield opening to get rid of the "chopped top" look, and removed all the emblems and trim. The Camaro will be built sans the front bumper. I have new chrome from the Modelhaus. This grille is from the Indy Pace Car kit which does not have the engine displacement below the SS emblem. The spoilers are from a Revell 1969 Camaro. The rear had to be shortened a hair to fit the width of the AMT body. That's all for now. Hopefully, more updates soon. Marc @ MPC Motorsports

I found the workbench on this long Memorial Day weekend and dove head first into an AMT 1967 Camaro annual. Here's a pic of the box art. I got this glue bombed builder in a trade with a friend last year. Here's what I started with. While the body looks good here, this photo was taken after I had removed every decal that came on the original decal sheet. The custom tail panel had been glued to the rear end too and the missing part was still attached to the body. The roof suffered some glue melt that had to be repaired on both sides. And the rear panel was rebuilt. Here's the interior tub after the seats and dash were chiseled from it. More to come...

Heard from Al Raab this evening. He's been out of the US on business but should have the first tires cast this week. He'll post pics when they are ready.

Lee, I've had much success spraying TS-13 over decals. First step is to apply Microscale Liquid Decal Film over the decals before you apply them. Then, use Micro Set when applying the decals. The Micro Set helps bond the decals to the bodywork and the Liquid Decal Film acts as a protective barrier. Like Crispy said, you still need to apply light coats of TS-13, waiting 30 minutes between coats. After you get your light coats built up, you can ususally apply one or two heavier coats to finish things off, again waiting 30 minutes between. Good luck! Marc @ MPC Motorsports

Paint it orange with the confederate flag and call it Duke's Towing.

Are you done yet? I'd still like to have a styrene 1972 Road Runner builder, but someone keeps buying them all!

Eric has decided to concentrate on his truck resins and has passed the molds for the 1964 Cutlass and Falcon to Kenny at Bandit Resins. I don't think they are on the Bandit Resins website yet, but you can email KDog at kdoggraphix@bellsouth.net.

Yes, the AMT Gremlin funny car posted does have a stock body, but not completely. It has a notch cut out of the cowl for supercharger clearance. Bandit Resins has a master for a "completely" stock 1971-72 Gremlin body. I know this because I did the master. When Bandit Resins makes this one available, you'll still need to come up with an AMT 1974-77 Gremlin kit for the chassis and interior.

Your builds are always stunning!!!

This one gets the MPC Motorsports Seal Of Approval!!!

Actually, Jeff Smith who was the editor of Chevy High Performance magazine, first coined the term in 1998. To learn more about Pro Touring than you ever wanted to know, click here.

It has been my experience that if HWJ says they have an item in stock, most likely it is.

If anyone has back issues of Car Craft from the mid 1970's, they did two project cars that in my mind were early precursors of today's pro touring movement. One was a 1967 Camaro and the other a 1970 Cuda. Besides the usual engine upgrades, they did suspension and tire upgrades in the name of handling. Interior upgrades included Corbeau seats, roll bars and back seat delete. The Cuda began as a 340 car that was upgraded to the six pack setup with T/A hood, spoilers and suspension. This was back in the post Trans Am, pre Cafe Racer era of street cars. If anyone has these magazines in their collection, I would love to see scans of the articles.

With a little work, the MPC kit builds into a nice car. I built this one back in 2002 from the MPC kit. Not only presentable, but won several show trophies and was pictured in Scale Auto's Contest Cars 2004. Enjoy!!!

I built this 1971 from the AMT ex-MPC 1972 GTO. I built this one as a curbside with a Reliable Resin 1971 GTO transkit and rear spoiler. Painted HOK Ultra Orange Pearl with Tamiya Clear and Keith Marks decals. Aoshima wheel and tires. Just takes a little more work than a paint and glue Revell kit. Follow along with Mark Taylor's Back To Basics thread for more tips.

Sure, the tool for this 44 year old model is very tired. Follow Mark Taylor's Back Two Basics thread when building this kit and you will be suprised what comes out. If you really want to build a "nicer" 1967 GTO, look to Ebay for a nice annual builder. I bought one recently for $15 and once I stripped the paint from it, it was apparent how much nicer the original castings are. Personally, I prefer these old kits and the personal challenge required to make them nice. They are a great way to expand and polish your building skills. Also, the "correct" front bucket seats are available from Modelhaus.

+1 for the SHO V6. The new Mustang 5.0 has the look, but I think it is a plastic cover.

Great find on the AAM resins. I've managed to collect a few myself over the past few years. I have a 1970 Olds Cutlass 442 convertible, '66 Malibu SS, and the 1955 Chevy panel truck. All are pieces of scale modeling history that deserve to be built someday.

Here's an idea...paint the wheel with gunmetal and hit the rim with a silver Sharpie marker.

Castrol Super Clean, Purple Power and similar "purple" cleaners will not hurt styrene and are used by many of us to strip enamel paints from models. Packing tape that you would use to seal boxes is what he is referring to.

Modelhaus has the hood, bumpers, grille and taillights for the Johan 1970 Javelin. That's where I got mine.

If this is just the bare body, you obviously need a hood and bumpers. You can get the stock ones from Modelhaus. The chassis and interior are the hard part as they were specific to the T/A versions. I send you a PM regarding those parts.