Warren D

Badger makes a filter that slips over the pick up tube before it goes in the bottle. I've got an old H brush as well, had it since the mid-70's and have used these filters for years. After a few years you'll need to get a new one as they can get clogged as they age, but at about $7 each, it's worth it.

Sweet! Nice clean build.

Heat and humidity will affect the paint. Too much heat and it will dry too fast, and may be too dry when it hits the model resulting in a rough appearance. Humidity is also a killer especially in the evening. The paint cools as the solvent flashes off and if the dew point is close to the air temp, you can get moisture condensing on the painted surface which will pretty much ruin the paint job. Overall, it sounds like you are close if the finish is a little rougher than a sheet of paper. Painting usually takes some practice to get right. I painted an entire full-sized Dodge M37 truck with rattle cans in semi-gloss. Took a lot of thought and a few more coats than necessary to get the right look.

Hard to say, what do you consider rough? Tamiya primer has some texture but if there is too much, it might be drying too much before it hits. If you are using rattle cans, you might need to get a little closer. If you are using an airbrush, you might need to add a touch more thinner or get a little closer. Like Snake said, I usually use 800 wet to prep the primer for top coat. Looks smooth, but flat (ie, not glossy).

Thanks. I'm still working on the dirty version of the No 9 and have a coach to do. I have too many projects, not enough time......sigh....

Don't think I haven't been thinking about it!!! Would surely be an easier scratch build than any of the more modern steamers.

If the paint is going on too thick, sounds like you have to back off on the distance and use lighter coats. Multiple light coats will work better than one heavy one.

That weathering job is possibly the best I've ever seen!

Thanks for the kind words everyone.

Looks great!

As said, you have a few different eras within the war. The Tiger Moth and Gloster are both post-WW1 so not usable. The Fokker E3 was an early war a/c while the Sopwith Tripe was closer to mid-War. The tank was toward the latter stages. It might be helpful to pick a time frame and then I could give you some ideas of the a/c in use. Aviation technology advanced rapidly and some types were only at the front for short periods. Mortality rate was high, a pilot had a life expectancy of about 25 hours in the air (on average, with exceptions being an Allied pilot had a much shorter life during the Fokker Scourge and German pilots felt that pain towards the end of the War to end all Wars) There was a Renault tank that was common, again toward the end of the war and I think I recall seeing a model of it, just don't know the scale.

Wow! Just incredible!

Very nice build!

Excellent!

Thanks. The biggest problem with Shapeways is their search engine. Type in what you want and it gives you hundreds of pages of unrelated junk. It doesn't even have a priority as in it will display related items first and then move along to stuff less related, it just throws what you really want in with the rest in a random manner.

Superb job on this classic!

As in full-scale rebuilds, frequent test fitting makes like easier. I'd try the hot water bath, just check to see if the paint softens before handling. Maybe you can use some rigid styrene square stock and glue up some braces under the body or re-inforce the frame and add a few attach points. I think we're all a little warped, otherwise we'd be doing something else!

Nice job!

I get my wood direct from : https://www.northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/ Fast service and too many size choices!

I like it! Maybe another pic or two showing the front of the cab.

I suspect that many of us have multiple projects going and got to counting up the projects that I have started but not yet finished. To qualify, a project must be in process in some way, not just an open kit where you looked thru the parts. I currently have about 8 in the works.

Any tissue that is already irritated by illness will be more likely to be damaged by foreign substances but a health care professional should be making that call. In the end, lesson learned is that just because you can't smell something doesn't mean it can't hurt you!

For years I've wanted a 1/25 scale Silver Eagle Model 5 (coach). Actually I'd like the real thing but will not likely ever be able to afford one! Maybe the reason we build models....

I have run across a few brands that do have a somewhat different primer. Hobby paint called Tru-Color is that way, they say to use their primer and you really have to. Learned that lesson the hard way. If you are painting fiberglass or aluminum then the primer is more specific to the material.

Depends on the chemicals involved and your personal sensitivities. Some of this stuff is nasty and you should really read and heed the warnings. Are the warnings over the top-generated-by-lawyers? Yes, they often go too far but they are there and should be considered. Any protective gear should be appropriate for the chemicals involved. I have a messed up thyroid thanks to modern chemistry and bad things happen with every exposure. One little gland can put you in a world of hurt. Take care of your body, it's the only one you have.