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Cool! Very nice Dino. What kit is that? Thanks,

Hello, Where I can find 1/25 scale figures of children? I'm not usually into dioramas, but I have a "little" idea Barbo, anything local you know of? Thanks,

Oi Drago, Parabéns! Você fez um ótimo trabalho! Esse carro é lindo! Eu estou aprendendo português mas ainda não está bom... O'brigado,

I don't know if it is related, but a few weeks ago the server sneezed and we lost a few days of posts for a few hours. They were restored back to normal, so nothing was intentionally deleted..... It could be the same this time. Thanks,

Great build on the ambulance. The figures are great as well. They capture the subjects greatly! Burt looks younger Captain Chaos looks just like "HIM" I liked that movie "The automobile... the automobile......" Thanks,

Nice work on both! I remember when the Corvette and the Cobra sat on the shelves and moved very slowly. I'm kicking myself for not picking up the Vette while it was cheap. I think I even saw them in clearance for under $5... Oh well... Thanks,

Hello, First, make sure the paint is dry enough to sand. If the paint is not dry it will goo up the sandpaper and will be a mess. I don't know how bad or how much you need to sand, so I would recommend start with either 400 or 600 grit sandpaper. Wrap the sandpaper in a piece of foam or wood or anything else that would keep its shape. Using water to keep the sandpaper and the area wet, slowly start sanding the area. Keep the sanding only to the area needed. Check your progress very often by wiping out the water and see how it looks. Take care not to sand away any details like moldings or door handles etc. After that, go to a finer grade sandpaper (higher number) and repeat the process with 600, 800, 1000 and up to 1200. If you have a polishing kit, you can go up to 3200. Once it is smooth to the touch (don't trust your eyes only) wipe it clean and make sure it is dry before shooting any more paint. When shooting more paint, use light coats. Don't worry if the first coat does not cover the area completely. More light coats will do the trick. This is easier than it sounds. It is just a bit tricky to explain in words. I hope this helps. Thanks,

WOW! What an amazing build! It deserves been presented "standing". That chassis needs to be seen.....

Hello, Now that the roll bar is pretty much done and in primer, it is time to continue with the interiors. GT3s don't have the back seats like other 911s. Not that they are useful anyways.... Since the kit is based on the 911, (yes, I have the stupid idea of getting another one and make a regular 996 out of it :oops: ) it calls for covering the rear seats with the included felt like cloth. Cutting out the molded seats would have been a major pain. What I did was to cut templates and cover what's not supposed to be there in the first place. Flocking will be next, with special attention to cover these templates properly and seamslessly. At the end, it should look like carpeting without seats. I also drilled 2 holes in the back for the roll bar to go thru. I'm asking myself: All that effort for a curbside car where the interiors are barely visible? And my other half answers: Yes, you got a problem with that? Thanks,

Fanfan, That looks very nice. What type of paint did you used on it? Me gusta mucho el color... Saludos,

Jairus: Thanks for the tips and the feedback. I'll be on the lookout for those things. BTW, that chassis looks great. The solder work is top notch. Tommy: You are the first to blame for me to try this . That frame is inspiring me ever since I saw it for the first time. The process I follow is very similar to what you use, so I'm in the ballpark there. Now, I have a question: Rod vs tubing: is there any advantage of one over the other? Rod bends easier, tubing needs something inside. other than that, any other difference? I'm happy with my first try, but I have a lot of catch up to do behind you guys! Thanks,

The machine is a Weller Ungar 921ZX. I have no idea how much it costs because I borrowed it from my work. Here is a picture of it. Do you need some wick? I can probably send you some. By the way, here's the roll bar after cleanup. Ready for primer. Thanks,

I'll follow up this build too. I love open wheel, especially Indy, but I never picked up that kit. Is it good? I think this is Michael Andretti's car from 1988. Does the kit includes a driver figure? Thanks,

Not only it looks GREAT! but it has held perfectly for 30 years! It looks like a fresh build. Very nice!

Hello, I used .032" solder for the brake lines, copper phone line wire for the throttle cable (just a hint smaller diameter), semi rigid electronics RF braided cable for the oil and fuel lines and a small copper wire for the headlight. The wiring harness from the battery to the starter and the frame is a braided cable from an older broken cell phone charger cable. You can tell I work with electronics FWIW, here are some more pictures http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3224 Hope this helps. Thanks,

Jody, Funny you mention that. I accidentally dropped it to the floor while test fitting it. My heart stopped for a second or two, but it passed the non-intentional drop test with flying colors. The equipment can go up to 850 degrees, but interestingly, I found the best joints were done between 750 and 800. (Sounds like a credit score commercial ) Going up to 850, the flux was consumed too fast and did not do its job. At the new setting the solder flows very nicely. I have since then cleaned it, retouch the joints and lightly sanded it, and it is ready for primer. I like it so much it is almost a shame to paint it Thanks,

Happy Birthday / Anniversary!!!!!! While the MCM forum went online mid Feb 2006, it was at the end of Feb early March that it started really cooking! Kudos to Gregg, Jairus and any other behind the scene heroes for making this THE online home not only for me, but for many others as well, and for keeping it cleaned and polished all the time. Raising my coffee mug, Here's to many more!!! CHEERS!! Thanks,

WOW! What a challenging project! While not the biggest fan of the car in the world, I can certainly appreciate your efforts to create such a truthful rendition! I can only imagine the time it took to get it right. In other words, I like it! Thanks,

En route to another GREAT save! Green is my least favorite car color, but I have to admit I really like this one a lot! Thanks,

Hi Jody, Thanks for the feedback. This is 1/25. I have experience with electronics SMT soldering, but this is my first attempt at soldering brass. A while ago I tried to solder brass tubing without success. The key here is that the equipment I have available is designed for SMT electronics. Small pointy tip on a Weller temp controlled soldering station. The solder and the flux are also more suited for BGA components than brass roll bars in scale. I thought about the torch, but at this time, this is more of a curiosity than anything else. After seeing the work of people like yourself, Stingray69 and others, I had to try it! So this is in part your fault I'll keep practicing and will start looking around for a suitable torch. If I can add this skill to my modeling "toolbox", I think it will actually be helpful in my helicopter models as well as in cars. After these pics were taken, I used some solder wick and cleaned some of the excess solder. This solder is also easy to file down. After a good cleanup, I guess primer and paint will be the final judges.... Thanks,

Hello, I thought I was on the ballpark, but I suspected I was using the wrong setup. After all, it's an SMT electronics setup. So I played around with the temp, tip, solder composition etc and I think I'm now on the right track. Still a bit heavy but each solder joint is getting better than the previous one. I'll retouch the first ones, but overall, I like it. Thanks,

Very nice! I love the umbrella.. What a creature comfort! You obviously know the subject very well. The changes are so well done you can't tell they weren't in the kit. Thanks for sharing,

Hello, Last time, we were here. While that dries, something happened and the box stock theme went Kaboom Here is my first attempt at doing a brass roll bar. From what I've researched, these cars usually have a roll bar inside, not a full cage. This is my first attempt at soldering brass rod. It came out ok, but the soldering can be a bit cleaner. The solder seems too heavy. The center bar will anchor a racing harness. I'm building up courage to try and solder a third support bar going to the back. The other side: You get the idea. Comments or suggestions? Thanks,

Gang, I'm pleasantly surprised to see such a good reaction to a box stock build of a subject that is not necessarily the most popular around. :wink: Thanks a lot!

Cool! I'll follow up closely. I'll soon start working on mine.