Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

ismaelg

Forum Supporter
  • Posts

    3,631
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ismaelg

  1. I like your brass job in this as well. Will the suspension and other components be brass as well? Thanks,
  2. That frame is VERY cool! I'm starting to play with brass soldering myself. The transmission and the shortened drive look interesting. I've never seen that. Thanks,
  3. I always liked that car, especially the color. What paint did you use on it?
  4. Nice job on that classic.....
  5. ismaelg

    MY MODEL

    Daniel, De mas esta decir que cuentas conmigo tambien......... Gracias,
  6. Very cool! I particularly love the lathe! The Coupe Devil is coming along nicely as well. Thanks,
  7. I'm cheap. I use old spray cans for bodies. I tape foam on the sides until the body fits snuggly. I also use masking tape inside the roof to hold it to the cap of the can. For smaller parts, usually tape them to a wood stick. If the part needs paint all around, I drill a small hole, superglue a piece of wire and hold it wth those great little office alligator clips. Thanks,
  8. Something else you need to consider is the lug nut size and pattern. A 1/18 wheel may look out of scale in a 1/25 car because the lug nuts would be too far apart, and the lug nuts themselves would be quite big. Thanks,
  9. I'm not sure I understand your question, but if you want to know what size it would be in another scale, just multiply the actual diameter by 24 or 25 whatever the scale you want. A 18" wheel in 1/18 is a 25 inch rim in 1/25 Thanks,
  10. Question from a tropical ignorant: How does that steers? Front only? diff braking in the back? That is wicked! Maybe it works in grass as well :wink: Thanks,
  11. 7 mirrors? I only see 5 Just kidding. I had to say something but I ran out of words a long time ago about this build. So are the faces of the mirrors stainless steel? How about the round ones? Thanks,
  12. ismaelg

    MY CUSTOM

    Hola Daniel! Welcome to the forum. I remember the orange panel delivery from one of the shows. Great job both you and your son! Saludos,
  13. Just the initial mock up and it already has that kick a s s attitude!!! Looking forward to see more as it progresses. LOVE IT! Thanks,
  14. HURRAY!!! 100! Thanks for the tips Bill and Bob. Now I can get back to my work at the office 8)
  15. 98 Here. I have no idea about Pic # 9
  16. Cool '62. Nice color.
  17. Hello, Entering the home stretch. Don't be fooled by the picture. Plenty of work is still pending, including the most difficult part of this model: Chassis to body mating. This chassis has a little warp to it, as many other 612s. It is slightly worst than in my custom 612. Please remind me of this if I ever say I'm doing another 612 8) Also pending windshield, rear glass, tail lights, wheels/tires, wipers, headlight covers, exhaust tips and other minor details. Thanks,
  18. Very cool build! I particularly love the interiors. Well done. That brings a lot of memories. I remember building the MPC kit back in the day. I always liked the GT, especially the gold color. Thanks,
  19. Hello, Here is an example on how important prep work is. The biggest mistake you can make is doing a lousy job on a particular step hoping for the next one to compensate and cover it. In this particular case, I did some minor body mods to convert the headlights from a 2000 to a 2003. I did not even look at the color jar until the primer was perfect. So I sanded and primed.... and sanded and primed... and then, sanded and primed some more until it was as smooth as possible. The results? FOUR color coats to the body, spoilers and chassis with only this much paint used, no color sanding needed and ready for clear. I hope this helps. Thanks,
  20. Hello, Here's the body ready for clear after 4 color coats. The camera has a tough time getting the blues right. It is a hint lighter than what it looks like in the pic. Maybe the bright wall confused it a bit. Cobra Colors Porsche Cobalt Blue: a rare color option on these cars. Thanks,
  21. Beautiful color mi pana.....
  22. I use fine grain Milliput. Does not shrink and sands very nice. Feathers great. But I can only get it thru Micro-Mark.
  23. As a rule of thumb, don't mix lacquers and enamels. BUT if you are going to: enamel over lacquer is usually OK, lacquer over enamel is a big NO-NO
  24. You were not hired by my wife to find out didn't you? I ordered the Cayman and the Hasegawa Ferrari 328. They were about $21 and $25 respectively. Shipping was about $18 for both. So at the end they average about $30 and $35. But if you order more than just 2 kits it makes more sense. :wink: Thanks,
  25. Dennis, First of all, WELCOME BACK!!!! Primer IS a must if you are using lacquer paints, and so is personal safety gear (A respirator is a must as well). Especially with today's softer plastic from Revell, AMT etc. My favorite primer is Cobra Colors Moon Mud. Unfortunately, Cobra Colors is no longer in business. My second choice (to be first when I run out of Moon Mud) is Plastikote T-235. Easy to use (spray can) and works great. It is gray but it also comes in white and black (T-236 and T-237 I think) It is a bit hard to find in some places. Some people like Dupli-Color primers, easily available in places like Wal-Mart, Pep-Boys, Auto Zone etc. Tamiya offers a primer to be used with their lacquer paints. I don't know how well it works with Testor's or any other lacquer. The key is testing and work slow. Hope this helps. Thanks,
×
×
  • Create New...