absmiami
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Everything posted by absmiami
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I can now make the chassis extensions in the engine bay - the kit leaves these out because its a curbside …. Made from H shaped Evergreen strip, L shaped strip, and .015 and .020 strip - i’ll need to paint this dark gray …
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- open wheel
- jim clark
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The dash was then soldered to the monocoque and installed - had to do this before painting because …
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Here’s where they go …
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The driving compartment side panels on the kit are abbreviated - stopping at the dash - so i made 2 panels from Evergreen strip to complete the monocoque forward to the pedal box …
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I looked thru the parts bags in the kit three times - couldnt find the attenueter ….
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Its a compromise - the .05 solder balls would have yielded a more sc accurate pattern - but would have been harder to handle and apply … think these .06 balls are set in securely - think they will stay put while the body is finished - more rivets needed for the back half of the body - think ill use the Archer rivet decals for those - they are black on the sheet - but i wont need exposed rivets in those sections …
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Under a coat of Tamiya primer…
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Knsr - you’re concern - and mine - is the size of the “rivets” ….
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Fujimi Fina McLaren F1 GTR Long Tail
absmiami replied to Nacho Z's topic in WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers
Goodstuff !! gotta ch out ESS … -
Wellwelldone …
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Getting bettter at this as i go - the right hand - in the picture - row of rivets is better than the left hand row - which was done first …
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Ths hardest part is drilling a shallow hole and making a shallow “divet” that the rivet is glued into - i want the top half of the solder ball above the surface of the body -
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On the restored 38 - none of the rivets are exposed - but the best pix that ive found of the Clark 38 at Indy in ‘65 show exposed rivets - my theory is that Team Lotus used a minimum of paint and that the rivets were exposed after repeated polishing in the weeks before race day - Chapman did value appearance - but paint added weight - and at Indy extra weight made a big difference … the rivet decal that ive taped to the surface of the cowl is used to help me space the rivets …
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So ive decided to try the Pierre rivet thing …. These are .06 solder balls - just dumped a bunch if them on to this black tray and started drillin … .06 is a bit over scale - but the thought is that a coat of primer will help seal the rivets - and that i can leave a scale appearing rivet after some light sanding -
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Oh Pierre …
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Charlie - Best Balsa sells the sheet - these are about 1/8 inch - are they large enough ? The mailing charges fr over seas for just a decal sheet is too high - I’ll send you this section and you can pick the ones that are best …
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Its peel and stick - just applied it to some card stock …
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Gracias MJ - Tamiya produced this great heat shielding years ago - is it still available ??
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those great looking Ford DOHC headers ...
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Here's a shot of the cockpit : notice the quilted heat shielding ...
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hope this poor guy isn't in the Fed witness protection program - i photographed the restored 38 at Amelia in 2019 - I think 2 days before the COVID lockdown - It's an accurate restoration - cosmetically - in most respects - couple of apparent differences to the as raced Indy entry that i'll mention as I go ...
