bobss396

'40 Standard coupe converted to a Deluxe, a bit of work but came out ok. Used donor parts from the yellow '40 convertible kit. Lots of flattie parts from Norm and MCG, '53 Ford truck hubcaps, I made the coil and shifter boot from aluminum rod as well as the trim rings which were nickel plated and sets off the brown nicely. Paint by Duplicolor. Bob

A few of my '39 Ford from last year. Engine and master cylinder stolen from the '66 Riv kit, MCG grille and other PE parts, Parts by Parks distributor, Modelhaus tires, '62 Pontiac wheels, black paint is Duplicolor Universal Flat Black and Tamiya Turquiose. Aluminum fabbed parts incluse the coil, radiator tank and gas cap. Bob

Good show, I would have Googled, "Is it a full moon tonight or what?". Bob

Ther place: The Freeport Recreation Center in Freeport NY, the same place as the November LIARS show. Free easy parking, access right off a major parkway, good eats on the premises. This show is put on by a primarily military model club, the Long Island Scale Modelers Club, aka LISM. They put on a decent show and we bring cars to bolster up the gene pool for the car fans. Depending on who goes, there can be anywhere from 15 to 50 plus cars on the table. Below is the link to their site. Hope to see y'all there. Bob http://longislandscalemodel.tripod.com/

The LIARS monthly meeting is on for Thursday night 3/20 at 7:00-9:30 PM. We're always looking to add new members to the roster, so come on down! Dues are something like $25 for the year and you get the right to wear the signature black LIARS t-shirts and other apparel. The location is: Henrietta Acampora Recreation Center, 39 Montauk Hwy, Blue Point, NY. From North LIE: LIE to exit 62S, Nicholls Rd. Make a left onto Montauk Hwy and take it for approximately ¼ mile. Center is on the left-hand side. From the North Shore: Take Nicholls Rd. south. Make a left onto Montauk Hwy and take it for approximately ¼. Center is on the left-hand side. From South Shore: Take the exit for Nicholls Rd. South. Make a left onto Montauk Hwy and take it for approximately ¼. Center is on the left-hand side.

That is exactly what I do. I use whatever I have laying around, something around .020 or .015 round stock works well. You still may have to do some body and fender work on the pillar after, but it'll be stable. Bob

Get "Goo Gone". Any hardware aisle should have it and it works every time. Its a citrus based product so it will be safe for all finishes (so far for me). Dab it on, give it a few seconds, wipe it off and do a quick rinse and mild soap wash. Bob

If you can find a real-deal beauty supply store, those are great. Some are only open to the trade and not the general public. They last longer than the hobby ones, can be washed too. They trim easily if you need a really narrow piece to get into a tight spot. Bob

I meant getting it to rotate in the other axis, like a turn table. Still a great idea that I'll have to try out. Bob

Most of my builds are Frankenstein jobs, so there are no instructions. I get that out of the way early on. I build the little ones the same way I do the big ones. It usually goes, engine and driveline, chassis, interior and paint. Since I paint regardless of the weather, I can finish a body whenever I want. I go for a final body fit complete with glass before I do the final paint, in case I have to fudge wheelwells or add clearance for something. Bob

That's got a lot of possibilities, great concept! Now come up with something that allows it to rotate, which should be easy if you got this far with it. Bob

When I first joined a club, I was intimidated by the guys that could scratch build and lay down nice basic paint jobs. I now see that in other modelers who are hesitant to ask, "how did you do that?". At our LIARS club meetings, we have "how to" clinics almost every month. Someone brings in a project and gives a show and tell on some aspect of it. One guy does great BMF work, one other guy's WIFE does all his BMF and even gave a clinic on it. My brother polished out a paint job at one meeting. So the information is out there, you have to find the best way to get it spread around. Bob

I had a wild thought. Why not have an adult builder's table at some model shows and contests? This would be entirely up to the hosting club or organization. Set aside a small area where people coupe bring in projects to work on during the show. Have it run by a couple of experienced builders who would be on hand to give advice and maybe show something that they're in the midst of building. Bob

Keepin' one step ahead of the grim reaper, always a good thing to do, get well soon! Bob

Ok, this is better than what I originally came up with, hope it helps. The bus station is on Market street in Newark, zip code 07102. The NNL is at 1 Pal Drive, Wayne NJ zip code 07470. Or try to grab with a ride with someone coming through Newark, ask on the board, I'm sure you'll get a ride. Bob http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=wa...sa=N&tab=wl

Drag City Casting has a tear drop hood for the '63. Bob http://www.dragcitycasting.com/

I don't care how they do it, just give me a '55-'56 Mercury or '54 Buick on the level of the Revell '49 Merc and I'll be happy. All kidding aside, give 'em a chance and see what great new things come about. I'm psyched about the ownership change, it's all good! Bob

The Revell '49 Mercs are out? Just kidding, I like the Buick headlights, ought to be a killer build. Bob

I always liked '36 Fords and have a couple started already. Yours is off to a good start, show us more progress pix! Bob

I like it! Rods are like a blank canvas, anything goes and the "gotcha" factor is key. And you got it with the fenders and it sits just right, dare to be different! Bob

I grab any black wire that I come across and stash it. Even the wire that holds kid's toys to the package is worth looking at. I ran across some with printing on it, looks like the factory markings on molded radiator hoses. Sometimes the military type wire has identification marking on it. Bob

I basically make it up as I go along, but will look at pictures to get a sense of scale. Make up some pieces from thin cardboard and see how you like them first. Bob

Sometimes I'll simply cut out the firewall completely and make a new one from flat stock, quite often less labor and time involved in cleaning one up. I try to cut the old one out in one piece between the razor saw and xacto and use it for a template. For the fenderwells, I'll scrape them with a chisel xacto blade and use sanding sticks as well. Once you're dome (or think you are) squirt some primer over the areas. Its almost a guarantee to get some ghosting. So sand some more, going to the micro mesh cloths in the coarse grades works well, make sure you use water so they don't clog up. Count on having to use some bondo or putty to fix up the nicks and gouges. Bob

I used to have better luck finding parts on my green didning room rug, they stood out pretty well. Now I'm working on a ceramic tile floor and whatever gets dropped takes a bounce into another dimension. When I do find something by freak chance only, it'll be 12 feet away on the carpeted area of the room. I do have a spare floursecent light fixture that I am some day going to install under the table to aid the recovery process. Bob

Oh yeah, tweezers, aka parts launchers. PING! I used to wonder why the photo etched sheets came with SO MANY parts on them, figured I was getting a GREAT deal. When you've lost the 3rd part in a row, you look at the dwindling number of parts left and re-think your handling process. Bob