bobss396

Looks good. The AMT 1965 Ford kit has a great dual quad 427 and likely the induction you need. Did you use the 1960 Starliner chassis?

I like to set it and forget it. You can't do that with a hair dryer. I use mine to dry glue, bondo, primer and of course paint.

The ATC woes is a sister act to the ongoing Boeing saga. I know a couple of guys who were fired back in 1981 (?) and they always had a harrowing tale to relate with near misses. I worked on an ATC project back around 1982, that division got sold off by 1985.

NIce... when in doubt, crack open a 40....

I use a lot of PPP cages from eBay... free shipping from one seller. They are made nicer now, they used to have lines in them that were tough to sand out. My only gripe is that the front legs are closer together than the back legs. I prefer a square cage, it gives more room for the seat. The last ones I have done, I offsetted the cages to the left a little. I have seen this often enough on 1:1 stock cars.

Welcome to my world. I just crawl around with a flashlight... the cat thinks I am playing.... or I give up and make another piece. Some parts are real small, like picking fly turds out of black pepper while wearing boxing gloves. In my old age I am getting smarter... if I need 8 of something, I make up 10-12 of them. If I need only 2, I make 3 or 4...

No matter, VCG Resins makes a great SM420. It would be hard to top that one. Josh would probably make you a decent deal on a bunch of them...

The kicker also got on a chassis I had completed... so that had to come apart. The paint was badly etched... good times.

I am up to re-making the front bars and getting the radiator mounted up. The engine will sit higher to get the headers to clear the control arms. I wish I could find true fenderwell headers. I almost made some from solder... except I can't find my spool of solder...

I just used dabs of 5-minute epoxy on mine. I waited for the 4-minute mark so it wasn't runny.

No SM420 gear box? Every GMC tow truck I drove had one in it. I don't know if they came from the factory with a Saginaw/Muncie transmission.

I usually glue a base of scrap plastic to the bottom of anything spillable. It works pretty well. Once just after Xmas, I spilled a bottle of zip-kicker onto the dining room table cloth... it was plastic and the kicker ate a big hole in it. Good thing the wife was not home...

I have drilled spark plug wire holes extra big, so the boot material slides right into the hole. This depends on how much material you have to work with. I'd be hesitant to try it on 3D parts since they are brittle compared to kit plastics. I have a bunch of wire that measures around .037", I use that for boot material. I slice through the jacket, leave the core wires un-cut and slide the "boots" off the wire. I leave the boots long, most of the time they compress enough and don't need glue. The height can be set very uniform, the wire-wrap wires that go into the boots you can get away with not gluing.

All of the modified stocker kits had them. You could also just cut out the kit tubs are use plastic stock. I have done this before. I have also sanded the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of kit interiors to make them flat. One I added some aluminum panels that looked good.

Some look like early bungee cords and had s-hooks on them. Maybe it was something readily available back then? My guess is that it was some sort of industrial tether made from rubber.

It was a mistake to cut the glass apart, you need those top strips to attach it to the inside of the roof. The windshield seems to have a relief at the bottom for some reason, maybe it is also used on something else? I wound up adding "stops" inside the roof for both pieces of glass on my build.

I finished one a couple of weeks back. Like making lemonade out of lemons ?. Yours looks good. I like the engine. Just wait until you install the glass... hint.. don't separate the front and rear unless you really have to.

I'm really not loving Duplicolor lately. I have had it blush under the best conditions. It must be formula specific. I still use old cans (the skinny ones) with no drama. It just dries on the dull side, like BC CC should. I have moved onto Extreme Lacquers and Mopar touch up paints.

I'm down to 2 cans of them, #1453 & #1454. I see them on eBay for crazy money.

Hmmmm I could always do a Jarrett "what if" build...

A couple of crappy shots of the headers. These are from 3D Designs. I cut the flanges off them, the spacing was off for my engine. I made new ones from .030 X. 125 Evergreen stock. The whole header fiasco was getting something to clear the upper control arms. A true fenderwell header would have been the answer

This is yet another stalled project. It was started around 2008 and I dug it out in 2022. I used the stocker interior tub and a Monogram stock car chassis. I extended the chassis in front of the firewall, the engine to firewall distance us good. However the transmission location is way forward. Other issues, the rear end ride height needs to come down. I also need to close the rear wells a little and get them better centered. The rear is in square. After a couple of other projects are complete, I may get back into this one.

I started a build thread on my '64 Ford.

I recently started using Tamiya tape, with the dispenser which keeps the edge crisp and clean.

I have to dig the car out again. I forget why I wasn't able to set the engine back more. Maybe I missed it. I had started the '64 Ford probably in 2008, ran across it by accident about 2 years ago. I did a bunch of work on it last year and then parked it. I do have a pile of work into it. At the worst I have to do another chassis for it.