bobss396

I had some leftover Craftsman truck decals I tried to use part of recently, no good. I chucked the rest of the sheet out. The edges were yellow and had some crud around them. These are kept in a plastic shoe box, so they are out of direct light. I keep them with my model supplies in my dining room.

Outside of shows and of course eBay, I have not seen a truck kit in stores in a long time. We had a close-out store that had tons of various kits. I bought up maybe 20 Louisville Ford box trucks, well over 50 of the green Craftsman (Quaker State) trucks for $1.97 each. 40 will fit in a shopping cart. I had also grabbed those ERTL promo cars, they were $3 each then 2 for $5. On eBay I had 2 guys in a bidding war over a '68 Corvette that I had clearly advertised as being issued in 1995. That topped $60.

Great advice here. It takes time to "brand" a show and it helps to have a long-established club to pull it off. My first couple of outings with the club, the shows were in posh hotels. We were teamed with another club, which has since folded up. No idea what it cost but we pulled lots of attendees, other clubs and vendors. Our club used to travel a lot together, now, not as much although there are still some great shows in the spring and fall. Prime time for model events. One of the clubs towards Maryland had a venue change that worked out. I would still like to see summer shows, those could be fun and good weather helps traveling. I would make a weekend out of a good show if they came up in the summer. Try to find out when hotels, etc have an "off peak" time frame. Our show doesn't have lodging associated with it and rates are fairly steep. I know that some traveling vendors have stayed with club members for a night in the past. Also the venue has lost its cafeteria, which was basically burgers, dogs, soda and pretzels. There are diners and fast food joints in the area. I pack a lunch most of the time and keep a cooler in the car. The biggest suck with our show is that you have to travel through or around NYC to get there. Tolls each way do add up. This keeps some good vendors away and attendees. Fortunately the venue is right off a major parkway and is easy to fins with GPS. One club some years ago got lost on the way and wound up 50 miles east of us. The guy who used to sell Black Gold paint and pearl powders would travel up from Texas by plane. He brought his powders in carry-on luggage and he had other items shipped to the venue a couple of days prior to the show.

I hope to make it, I'm about 1.25 hours out. I'll be wearing a black LIARS club shirt if I can find it.

Thanks. I dug out a built-up one from 1995 and tried to "save" it. The Testors gold paint practically peeled off it... no primer and flash all over the body. The windshield and interior tub are among the worse features of the kit. The old one, I probably used a 1/2 tube of glue on those pieces alone.... tube glue... <gasp!!>... I decided to marry the tub and chassis early on. I had to add plastic strips to get the tub not to float in space. I added mounting tabs to locate the body to the chassis. Everything on the chassis is pinned for strength. I tossed the kit headers and used 3D printed ones.

Nice, I like the interior. I built the Polyglass Gasser when it came out... a long time ago. I built the latest one around 2009 as a stock car. It is a great kit.

I thought I had seen a Revell '30 Ford there, I'll go back next week to look. I would at least grab a '36 Chevy modified kit at 40% off.

I would heat the paint, the plastic will cool off in a matter of seconds. I give my paint 5 to 10 minutes in hot tap water, no more than 105 F. I have heated paint in the dehydrator as well. Make sure that the glass has been washed with hot soapy water to get any mold release off it.

I know one dealer and when I see him next week I'll ask him. I still have a decent stash of trucks to fall back on. I think the last ones came out in 1995, I picked up a bunch at a close-out store around 2003 for less than $2.

I grew up close to Islip in NY and if the wind was right, as a kid I could hear them from my house. On some nights when the breeze came off the bay, we could smell the salt in the air after the races. I ran the last night at Islip in my Nova, finished 4th. This was in 1984. The only game in town now is Riverhead. The weekly modified shows have 2 modified divisions, mains draw maybe 10 cars per. I'll go for the tour shows, those still pull cars from all over. Support divisions are sparsely filled out too. Mainstays like Street Stocks have a bunch of "bye" weeks during the season. I look at the schedule carefully before I go.

Let me know if you want a set. I have them leftover from my build and they are in my decal stash box.

We had our club meeting last night and we went over finances, etc. Of course the show venue came up, we plan things out even this early in the year. This is the way to make sure things go smoothly. We have had the rec-center date saved since our first show there, the 2nd Saturday in November to it is easy to remember. We are going with a all-in-one registration fee that should make most entrants happy. We discussed trophy packages, vendor tables too. We are keeping the table fee the same and last year we did sell all of them. I may take 2 this year. It takes time to get the venue information out to the modeling community, the sooner you pick a place the more people will be attending.

Super slick, I like it. What did you do for the X pipe, is that a kit item? It really adds to the pro-street vibe.

I use 5-minute epoxy for most of my glass installation. Mix it up, wait 3 minutes and go for it, that way it is less runny. I tape the glass in place so it doesn't move while the epoxy sets up. I have had luck with masking off the rest of the car and using something ike Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf to do window chrome.

Thanks, MM Extreme Lacquer Bronze. The cans spray quite well and I went over it with their clear, the last ones I have done required no polishing. Good enough for a stock car.

I think that Hobby Lobby may have that kit, I will grab one soon. Iceman makes a couple of dropped front axles for the Revell '32 that will likely fit the '30. I have a long-stalled '32 Coupe that I chopped probably 10 years ago that I have to dig out.

I like that orange. I recently did a '32 coupe using a Black Gold orange (Nova Orange IIRC) that came out great. The Model Master Lacquer line has a great orange in it.

I used to have a screened porch off my kitchen that was 10' x 16'. It was old and drafty to say the least. This was around 2004 and I was doing a Craftsman truck and I planned on painting it with Tamiya metallic blue. As luck would have it, it was about 30 and snowing. Also snowing a little inside the porch, but I went for it. Lighting was poor, I had more light coming from the kitchen window than the porch light. I did the 1st coat, it was acceptable. Gave it 45 minutes in the dehydrator and went out for the 2nd coat, which I somehow managed to la down successfully.

Personally I would scuff it up to make sure the old finish is smooth, then give it a coat of primer. Followed by a top coat of choice.

Thanks. The weight on the Colorado title was 3460, at the NY DMV, the Witches of Eastwick vanished behind closed doors for about a 1/2 hour with the title. They came back and said it should weigh 3550 and the color of the car is white and gray. With the aluminum heads, intake, 4-speed and aluminum radiator I figure it should come in at closer to 3400 lbs. The engine builder estimated it at 425 HP. It is a pretty fast car.

I was at a show some years back and Revell was there with test shots of the '49 Mercury. I looked it over and told them, that they had screwed the pooch by not coming out with a '51 Mercury. They were not pleased with me. Granted it is a great kit that we needed. The AMT version still builds up well. I built my first one in 1963.

With all the great parts we now have, these are fun to build

1959 Ford Custom 300. The 223 6 is long gone. Now it has a 355 SBC that was in my Nova stock car. M20 Muncie 4 speed, 3.89 posi rear.

I changed the hood at the last minute to the one with the hole in it. I opened the hole to .687" on my mill.

The factory '41 to the '46-'48 post-war cars were quite similar in the 1:1 world. I would consider doing one. Now if someone would make up a 3D printed '42 grille...