bobss396

I have used the clear pearl (TS-65) over white primer with success. The effect is the same in the end.

I started using paper clips and staples, which are not even close to being round items. Then onto floral wire which is strong enough and cheap. I use a lot of .093" Evergreen tubing that has an .048" hole thru it. I can use plastic or brass rod to make strong joints. In general my go-to metal items are 1/32" and 3/64" brass rod. I have a few lengths of .031" stainless steel pins that come in handy. Most used lengths are 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4".

Me and my brother had ZZ Top worthy beards for a while, everyone in the family HATED them including wives and girlfriends. What to do... grow it LONGER... When I got a real job in 1981 I cut it shorter by a lot. My brother needed to go to court about something, his was gone. Now I trim it with a #1 or #2 guide on a Wahl trimmer.

Anything that needs strength I will pin it in place. I drill holes while things are in the raw plastic state, pin one side with brass rod, aluminum tubing or stainless steel pins (1/32"). Then I use as little CA glue as possible. I rarely ever scrape paint off anything.

I like the scoop. I have (yet another stalled project..) and I grafted a scoop from a '66-ish T-Bird onto a Mercury hood. That comes with a chrome piece for the front of the scoop that sets it off.

Watch with photo-copying a decal sheet, with my printer the scale is a little off. Put a scale in with whatever you are copying so you can check it.

Stalled project from 2014.... those are rookie numbers! Seriously, the car looks great. I could build for a solid 3 years if I unearthed all of my stalled projects. I have some going back to 2000.

Citadel is one my local hobby shop carries, the shop owner says that the figure-guys like them. I found Vallejo acrylics at Hobby Lobby, so far I got a black and silver to start with, they were $3.99 each. Online at eBay they are $6-8.

I was there yesterday, no '30 as well. They serve up the SOS it appears.

I'm going to give them a go, thanks.

We were supposed to see Betts at a show out in Montauk NY some years back, the show was canceled by the time we got out there. No internet that far back. We found out later that he was too inebriated to perform.

A step in the right direction, thanks. I will look that up. Are they reputable to do business with?

I have been using Tamiya acrylics to to small detail painting. I have a bunch of their clears, also the X22 which I use mostly as an adhesive and some blacks and silvers. I will give the Vallejo line a try. Anything I paint is very small, everything else gets sprayed. I use the clears over TS-30 Silver Leaf on things like steering wheels, fans, shift knobs, side marker lights.

I just ordered a set of these from VCG Resins for my GMC wrecker. I got them with the case. https://www.vcgresins.com/shop/p/jerry-cans

I build a lot of the old MPC modified kits and the kit coil-overs are not cutting it. I have made up my own and it is very labor intensive. I use real springs from McMaster Carr. I really should get a small lathe for myself. That would be a good long-term solution. I have a full sized Bridgeport mill in my garage. VCG resins used to make shocks, they are a little on the fragile side. I have a set I'm going to try to adapt. Does anyone know of a source? It would be a big help to me and others. Thanks.

Very well done, a lot of scratch building there.

That is excellent, looks like a real stock car. Very obscure too. Questions: What paint was used, what did you use for the tire stripes? Are those the decals that come with the PPP tires?

I like it, those combo kits were excellent to build.

I like it, has great proportions. The AMT hoods need a lot of fitting to have them sit right. I have added plastic to the sides of a couple I did.

One of my favorite cars of all time. That looks sharp in red and the interior goes well with it. I had around 4 real ones some years back. I have a resin Biscayne body I picked up a while ago, maybe the time is NOW.

That is quite a nice resurrection on a flimsy kit chassis. I have a couple of pie wagon kits I should start gathering parts for. I also have a couple of Anglia (Skipper's Critter) kits, one I built in 1970 and I still have the OG box. If you want to go with disc brakes, I have used the Wilwood discs from VCG Resins, (3D printed). I'm using a set on a NASCAR modified coupe I'm working on.

I like the gunmetals for chassis work too, TS-42 light and TS-38 dark. My only gripe with the TS line for chassis work is that they don't stand up to a lot of handling when fitting parts. I have been using a couple of gray enamels from Ace Hardware. Those are very durable and dry fast. I have to see if I can find one close to the gunmetals on my next trip there.

Try Tamiya TS-63 NATO Black. This is my go-to matte black. Also Mr. Hobby's black primer is quite good. I like the Duplicolor flat black since it doesn't pick up fingerprints, that is DS104.

I had some leftover Craftsman truck decals I tried to use part of recently, no good. I chucked the rest of the sheet out. The edges were yellow and had some crud around them. These are kept in a plastic shoe box, so they are out of direct light. I keep them with my model supplies in my dining room.

Outside of shows and of course eBay, I have not seen a truck kit in stores in a long time. We had a close-out store that had tons of various kits. I bought up maybe 20 Louisville Ford box trucks, well over 50 of the green Craftsman (Quaker State) trucks for $1.97 each. 40 will fit in a shopping cart. I had also grabbed those ERTL promo cars, they were $3 each then 2 for $5. On eBay I had 2 guys in a bidding war over a '68 Corvette that I had clearly advertised as being issued in 1995. That topped $60.