bobss396

You really need a thermometer. My last one, I built it into the lid. I marked the dimmer dial where it hit the magic 105 number, but it is good to double check.

2019 Equinox, I got it late in 2023 on a Black Sunday sale. Loaded, leather interior, etc. I get over 28 MPG out of it most of the time.

I have a Ronco I picked up a while back. No temp control and it runs 135 F. I have heard of guys putting holes in the cover to cool it down.

Probably some shiny paint with a matte clear over it may work to an extent. I'm not sure that Testors Dullcote is still made.

I keep painted parts and small assemblies in mine. I'll have to try them as a paint stand.

I proudly almost never check my emails. I use one yahoo account since I retired in 2020. In recent years before I left work, I would rack up easily 100+ emails each morning. My ex boss, he said he got over 500 waiting for him each morning.

Nice work. I have a built one that I lost parts for over 25 years ago. I was able to get a couple of partial donor kits. I painted mine the same color, but Testors enamel. It looks okay... I really have never shown it to anyone and it still lives in the box.

A timer would be nice. I only run it during the day mostly when I'm around. A lamp type timer would be a good idea and inexpensive. My Magic Chef that croaked, I pulled it apart and installed a light switch timer. We did my brother's at the same time and his still works. The temperature control on my new one is why I dropped $40 on it.

I have an old built up '64 Caddy I am one day going to resurrect. I have taken it apart carefully, at the worst I may not be able to salvage one of the tail light lenses. I built a bunch years ago and they were good kits.

I grabbed one at Ollie;s, a Chefman brand. Never saw it before, for $40 I said what the heck. It has a temperature control which I find to be accurate checked against a candy thermometer (available at supermarkets for around $10). I have been using it almost constantly and am liking it. My previous was a Magic Chef that I wired a house dimmer switch into. That crapped the bed on me and I could get another base for it, maybe down the road.

I too was impressed at how little work the primer needs after the fact. I may scuff it with 3200 grit to get out a fly turd or dust particle. I go with a light coat or 2 in a perfect world. I can touch up spot areas that need a little more help and it blends in nicely. I'm back with a new dehydrator and use it for primer, glues, putty and paint. I tend to be a tad heavy-handed with anything I shoot on models. I have noticed that if I go directly into the dehydrator, I can get a little bubbling in the primer and some Tamiya or Ace Hardware sprays. I run it at 105 F, which I have always done. I have a candy thermometer in the lid to confirm the heat level. Now I have much better results if I wait for the primers and paint to flash-over first (10 to 16 minutes) and then into the dehydrator. I have also cranked the heat down to 100.

Lots of brick and mortar stores are fighting for existence. My local Staples just folded up, there are other stores around. I talked to someone the last time I was there, she said that the strip mall owner DOUBLED the rent and they were not going to pay that. The same mall, the Modells went adios a while back, Radio Shack has been gone for over a decade. So there are a few vacant stores here and all around from what I see. Yesterday, I'm in a supermarket that has 8 checkout lines. Only 2 were open plus the self checkouts. Then onto Hobby Lobby, just 2 cashiers there out of about 10 stations. The pet food place, normally one on the register and a couple of others stocking and or helping customers. I was in the back of the store, lots of open floor space all of a sudden. They were out of my favorite (the cat's favorite...) Fancy Feast and had no idea when more was coming in. Michael's is starting to look very sparse too.

I was a Duplicolor fan for a long time. I still like the primers, although I use a Hobby Lobby one exclusively on bodies and interiors. With not using a dehydrator, I use the "overnight" rule to let the last primer dry coat thoroughly before going top coat. The DC touch-up line... something must have been changed with the formula. Now it will blush no matter if I paint inside, outside any temperature of humidity level. With car paints, I have been using the Mopar line of touch up paint. MUCH better over DC.

10 years ago I would have considered taking on a business, now, eh... not so eager to take that leap.

Very sharp! Digging the dog dish caps. Who made them? Thanks.

I have had mixed success at 2-tone paint work for years. I stumbled onto Tamiya masking tape, 6MM wide in the dispenser that keeps it clean. No turning back now... I have to try the bleed-thru avoidance thing going forward.

I gave up on Testors enamels long ago. I found the cans to spew a lot of crud onto otherwise decent paint jobs. What are you using for a primer? I shoot mainly lacquers and have finally tried the Extreme Lacquer spray cans, and also their clear over that.

I tried these out this past summer. I'll call them excellent primers, really all I use for bodies. I'm going to use up my Duplicolor on chassis and other details other than the bodies. I have a couple of cans of the 1500 black, which is really a nice smooth satin finish. Locally all I can find if the 1000 gray primer.

Very nice. My brother found a crew cab in resin, mastered by someone in the club. He made it into a nice ramp truck. I have been making my own leaf springs for a while now, especially after farting around the lousy ones that come with the MPC modifieds.

I ran across these on eBay, for his 1961 car, I cannot vouch for how good they are. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224715834655

Hobby Lobby has a decent .015" thick plastic that I use.

I just saw this on TV, a show about Henry Ford's Willow Run plant that produced the B24 bombers for WW2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willow_Run Douglas Aircraft had initially started the program and badly borked it up. They didn't even have drawings to work from. Ford sent an army of draftsmen out to do just that.

A staggering accomplishment. These were built in the day of no CAD/CAM, no CNC equipment.

There is some risk of buying just a tire or wheel and match it up with what you have. Resin is rigid, rubber you have a better chance of an acceptable fit. I have had to sand some resin tire inner-diameters to make them fit the wheels.

Nice, I have to get an order together soon. Good headers are hard to come across. Have you thought of doing a set for the MPC modified kits? The ones in the kit are a "challenge" and really not that realistic. Something like the 2nd picture would be a god start.