bobss396

My last 2 modifieds, I went with the Extreme Lacquer line of paint, used the clear too. IMO, the best lacquer combination around. The clear was so good, in both cases, no polishing.

I have had 2 of them go bad on me over the years. They would do a variety of things, carp out completely while driving. I'd wait a few minutes and it would start again, go 200 yards, rinse repeat. I had another, if the car was running and shut off for less than 15 minutes, it would start up. Past that, I'd have to wait 2+ hours for it to start again. I planned my errands accordingly.

I went to lacquers only 20+ years ago and have never turned back. They are more forgiving that enamels and the learning curve is short as well. I am this many years old hearing the term "tack coat" for the first time.

Very innovative, keep up the good work.

Those are great kits, I built a few MANY years ago, with the big hemi and the clear hood.

I'm not big on "mist" coats, this is a good way to get a grainy mess. On bodies, after priming I start painting with the body upside down. This way I get the rockers and other hard-to-reach places with good initial coverage. Once that is dry, I'll color-sand out anything that is not dead nuts smooth. Then I'll turn the body right side up and start painting. In almost all cases, I'll color-sand between coats. My last coat(s) get applied on the heavy-ish side. Worst case, I'll get a minor sag once in a while, an easy fix with lacquers.

I always knock the pins off. Then I go with a light application of Tamiya liquid glue, clamp the parts together or hold them in a small vise. After that sets up, I'll give it more liquid glue and let it sit overnight or 2 hours in the dehydrator. Then sand, putty, sand, prime... more putty and sanding if required. It really has to look good from the bottom. Sometimes I separate the engine and transmission. A little extra work but worth it to paint the parts 2 different colors and look good.

Thanks. My brother had one done when he was 41, after a heart attack while working out of the US. He got home.. straight to the ER. He got the stent done right away. He does a lot of road biking, a 20 mile trip is routine for him. Last year he started having chest pains and had to slow it down. He went it to the local cath lab and has 2 more stents done, he is 100% fine. Like I said, I really had no signs but the stress test showed up 2 areas of poor blood flow. The one that was fixed was fairly blocked. I see the heart doctor tomorrow. The pool ban is only for 5 days, I can handle that since 2 days are already past.

My 2016 widow maker came with a massive HA and a triple bypass. I got past all that and made a good recovery. This one showed up in my scheduled nuclear stress test back in June, all told it was a one-month deal. I really had no bad symptoms. I feel fine right now, all I have to do is keep up with changing the dressing on the incision site, which is already showing signs of healing well. With the 2016 event, I was kept in a coma for almost 4 full days to help healing and they also had me cooled down. I woke up and saw that all my surgical sites were completely healed, no scabs, just scars. I would have sworn I was out for weeks, not days. I had an army of doctors paraded in to look at me... when did you have surgery... early Sunday morning... this was mid day Wednesday. I generally heal very quickly, but they all said they had never seen this before.

I had my heart stent done yesterday, there by 9, home around 5. The doctor said I would need 1 or 2, in the end one 5 mm stent did the trick. The groin incision is sore as expected, I have 1 new prescription toward off rejection of the stent. And I have to do another cardiac rehab. I have a laundry list of things to do, not to do. The worst is no pool for 2 weeks. I see my heart doctor on Friday and ask his opinion on a few things, like working on the Belair again.

Why not make some up? If you have one to copy, it would be a breeze.

Or the Unabomber was right. "Eventually our technology will fail us".

I like everything about it... keep going!

If the decal sheet has extras, experiment using those first on a scrap body. Use the same primer and paint.

Threaten me with jail... 3 hots and a cot... I tell them I'll be waiting on my front steps to come and pick me up.

My girlfriend for some reason gets them all the time on her Apple phone. Some real elaborate ones at that. She gets fake mail sent to her house, saying she is an owner of several companies in other countries. The local DA is looking into it now. I'm scam proof, since I am a cheap SOB at heart.

I spell-check/ proof read almost anything I type up before sending. After my 2016 heart attack, bypass and a 5-day coma, my spelling and usage has suffered a bit. I mix up "us" and "is", "of", "if" and "or" often. I also will Google simple words that used to be easy to spell.

I have one of his '40 Ford bodies, chopped and channeled. I have to dig it out.

Outstanding, somehow this is one kit I have never run across before.

That does it.. I need a '25 Ford kit... VCG Resins makes a nice chassis for it.

I built one some years back, in 2007 when I was recovering from throat surgery, the Maxx Rat version.

Is the '64 Ford body a resin item? I want one... I have a Ned Jarrett stock car vision being chased by the squirrels in MY head....

I am going to steal some of your ideas, they are simple and clean. I have one started too, I really have not got that far with it, so I can go back a few steps. I have the same body and the interior tub is a good fit. I got the SBC built, I also have a VCG Resins 409 on hand. It has a good look in these cars. I've been gathering various hotrod parts and it is tome to do a deep dive into them, I have been hoarding the best-of-the-best parts and I'm not getting any younger.

I took the Belair out yesterday to my model car club meeting, it had cooled off by then and the drive was comfortable. This was the 1st time I had the car out at night and learned a few things about the car. The interior dome light, might need new door switches. The passenger side works when it wants to. I have no dash lights, I use the HK (Helen Keller) method to guesstimate my speed. The car keeps up with traffic, I have to change out the gas pedal return spring, it is very tight. The headlights, I have to look into new adjusters, etc. Which are available. I was changing to halogen bulbs and noticed that the buckets are different on the left and right sides. Worst case, I have to find some used buckets that all match. I have a slightly loose strut rod on the driver side, the bushings are new. I have to dig up a 1.25" open-end wrench to tighten it up. I can feel it when I brake when going over 40. Not dangerous, but needs to be cinched up. The transmission had a slight flare on the 1-2 shift at times. I am going to change the fluid and filter sooner than later. The ride is good with the radial tires. After my heart procedure (next Tuesday) I will be getting into changing the springs, some front end parts and doing an alignment. I came out to the car a couple of days ago and found the LF tire flat. So I take it off and look for a screw or nail... nothing. I fill it up and hear an immediate HISS.... the valve stem was cracked. They are all new, there was no pressure on the valve from the wheel cover. I took the tire to a local shop and $10 later I was on my way. I cleaned out the trunk yesterday, the light bulb went off in my head to look for a jack. The car came with spare wheels, the old drum brake parts, etc. No jack was present, although I had a cheapo lug wrench. Off to Harbor Fright, $99 later I had a 33 lb. low-profile floor jack. My touch up paint (for the drip rails) I just re-caulked is coming today. I will with for a cool-ish day to get into that. Today we are going to the beach, not with the Belair. But we will take it out for a ride after.

I could raise $500 by consolidating the spare change on my kitchen counters and bedroom dresser top....