bobss396

Citadel is one my local hobby shop carries, the shop owner says that the figure-guys like them. I found Vallejo acrylics at Hobby Lobby, so far I got a black and silver to start with, they were $3.99 each. Online at eBay they are $6-8.

I was there yesterday, no '30 as well. They serve up the SOS it appears.

I'm going to give them a go, thanks.

We were supposed to see Betts at a show out in Montauk NY some years back, the show was canceled by the time we got out there. No internet that far back. We found out later that he was too inebriated to perform.

A step in the right direction, thanks. I will look that up. Are they reputable to do business with?

I have been using Tamiya acrylics to to small detail painting. I have a bunch of their clears, also the X22 which I use mostly as an adhesive and some blacks and silvers. I will give the Vallejo line a try. Anything I paint is very small, everything else gets sprayed. I use the clears over TS-30 Silver Leaf on things like steering wheels, fans, shift knobs, side marker lights.

I just ordered a set of these from VCG Resins for my GMC wrecker. I got them with the case. https://www.vcgresins.com/shop/p/jerry-cans

I build a lot of the old MPC modified kits and the kit coil-overs are not cutting it. I have made up my own and it is very labor intensive. I use real springs from McMaster Carr. I really should get a small lathe for myself. That would be a good long-term solution. I have a full sized Bridgeport mill in my garage. VCG resins used to make shocks, they are a little on the fragile side. I have a set I'm going to try to adapt. Does anyone know of a source? It would be a big help to me and others. Thanks.

Very well done, a lot of scratch building there.

That is excellent, looks like a real stock car. Very obscure too. Questions: What paint was used, what did you use for the tire stripes? Are those the decals that come with the PPP tires?

I like it, those combo kits were excellent to build.

I like it, has great proportions. The AMT hoods need a lot of fitting to have them sit right. I have added plastic to the sides of a couple I did.

One of my favorite cars of all time. That looks sharp in red and the interior goes well with it. I had around 4 real ones some years back. I have a resin Biscayne body I picked up a while ago, maybe the time is NOW.

That is quite a nice resurrection on a flimsy kit chassis. I have a couple of pie wagon kits I should start gathering parts for. I also have a couple of Anglia (Skipper's Critter) kits, one I built in 1970 and I still have the OG box. If you want to go with disc brakes, I have used the Wilwood discs from VCG Resins, (3D printed). I'm using a set on a NASCAR modified coupe I'm working on.

I like the gunmetals for chassis work too, TS-42 light and TS-38 dark. My only gripe with the TS line for chassis work is that they don't stand up to a lot of handling when fitting parts. I have been using a couple of gray enamels from Ace Hardware. Those are very durable and dry fast. I have to see if I can find one close to the gunmetals on my next trip there.

Try Tamiya TS-63 NATO Black. This is my go-to matte black. Also Mr. Hobby's black primer is quite good. I like the Duplicolor flat black since it doesn't pick up fingerprints, that is DS104.

I had some leftover Craftsman truck decals I tried to use part of recently, no good. I chucked the rest of the sheet out. The edges were yellow and had some crud around them. These are kept in a plastic shoe box, so they are out of direct light. I keep them with my model supplies in my dining room.

Outside of shows and of course eBay, I have not seen a truck kit in stores in a long time. We had a close-out store that had tons of various kits. I bought up maybe 20 Louisville Ford box trucks, well over 50 of the green Craftsman (Quaker State) trucks for $1.97 each. 40 will fit in a shopping cart. I had also grabbed those ERTL promo cars, they were $3 each then 2 for $5. On eBay I had 2 guys in a bidding war over a '68 Corvette that I had clearly advertised as being issued in 1995. That topped $60.

Great advice here. It takes time to "brand" a show and it helps to have a long-established club to pull it off. My first couple of outings with the club, the shows were in posh hotels. We were teamed with another club, which has since folded up. No idea what it cost but we pulled lots of attendees, other clubs and vendors. Our club used to travel a lot together, now, not as much although there are still some great shows in the spring and fall. Prime time for model events. One of the clubs towards Maryland had a venue change that worked out. I would still like to see summer shows, those could be fun and good weather helps traveling. I would make a weekend out of a good show if they came up in the summer. Try to find out when hotels, etc have an "off peak" time frame. Our show doesn't have lodging associated with it and rates are fairly steep. I know that some traveling vendors have stayed with club members for a night in the past. Also the venue has lost its cafeteria, which was basically burgers, dogs, soda and pretzels. There are diners and fast food joints in the area. I pack a lunch most of the time and keep a cooler in the car. The biggest suck with our show is that you have to travel through or around NYC to get there. Tolls each way do add up. This keeps some good vendors away and attendees. Fortunately the venue is right off a major parkway and is easy to fins with GPS. One club some years ago got lost on the way and wound up 50 miles east of us. The guy who used to sell Black Gold paint and pearl powders would travel up from Texas by plane. He brought his powders in carry-on luggage and he had other items shipped to the venue a couple of days prior to the show.

I hope to make it, I'm about 1.25 hours out. I'll be wearing a black LIARS club shirt if I can find it.

Thanks. I dug out a built-up one from 1995 and tried to "save" it. The Testors gold paint practically peeled off it... no primer and flash all over the body. The windshield and interior tub are among the worse features of the kit. The old one, I probably used a 1/2 tube of glue on those pieces alone.... tube glue... <gasp!!>... I decided to marry the tub and chassis early on. I had to add plastic strips to get the tub not to float in space. I added mounting tabs to locate the body to the chassis. Everything on the chassis is pinned for strength. I tossed the kit headers and used 3D printed ones.

Nice, I like the interior. I built the Polyglass Gasser when it came out... a long time ago. I built the latest one around 2009 as a stock car. It is a great kit.

I thought I had seen a Revell '30 Ford there, I'll go back next week to look. I would at least grab a '36 Chevy modified kit at 40% off.

I would heat the paint, the plastic will cool off in a matter of seconds. I give my paint 5 to 10 minutes in hot tap water, no more than 105 F. I have heated paint in the dehydrator as well. Make sure that the glass has been washed with hot soapy water to get any mold release off it.

I know one dealer and when I see him next week I'll ask him. I still have a decent stash of trucks to fall back on. I think the last ones came out in 1995, I picked up a bunch at a close-out store around 2003 for less than $2.