Jantrix

I've done some experimenting. A thin piece of styrene from a yard sale sign and some double faced tape will do the job. Thanks very much everyone.

Yep, but it hasn't been put away. I'm away on business for a couple of months. I'll be back at it when I get back. Thanks for checking in.

Maybe still available at Walmart?

Me too. I didn't even know you can still buy that. Good stuff guys, thanks very much.

Okay if wanted to etch extra panel lines, as if I was doing an aircraft themed build, how would I go about making each and every one, dead nuts straight and perfect? Running a tape line is not the most reliable, The blade/scriber isn't held as well as you might want. I'm thinking of making stencils with thin styrene, super-gluing it in place, scribe the line and then pop off the stencil and sand the glue off. Anyone got any better ideas?

I have never had good results from ANY Rustoleum product. It might be fine for painting a picnic bench but it's not for models, in my opinion. Steve has the right of it, stick with Duplicolor.

Frankly whenever I see something kinda cool from a design standpoint I just naturally try to see if it can be applied to model cars. I keep a folder on my desktop for just such ideas.

Is it just me or is the chassis wider that the body?

Wow. Great subject. Looking forward to this.

If you'd like a Ford engine for this kit, I'd check some of the Monogram Thunderbird kits in 1/24. A y-block is always a nice choice.

Yeah, this is the first thing I thought of. I did a channeled deuce roadster no too long ago, so a Model A roadster wouldn't be first on my list, but an RPU on the z'd frame sounds good.

Just stunning work. Man you make it look so easy.

Some solder will fill the tube and be very bendable.

I seem to be seeing articles that say otherwise. http://womenincomics.wikia.com/wiki/Shawn_Kerri

Yes. Future is an acrylic and will safely go over anything.

This was my original point. Sometimes its just not feasible or possible, to restore a car to period correctness. I once asked a fella with a show car custom 30's Huppmobile, why he felt it was necessary to customize such a rare car. His reply, "for lack of available parts to restore." Kinda hard to argue with that.

If that were true then we'd still be using that technology. Instead we have independent suspension, rack & pinion steering, AC, heat, radio, defrosters etc. Don't get me wrong I love those old rods you posted as much as the next guy. There is something truly special (and a little bit magical) about a period correct auto. However, if I were to acquire a basket case first gen. Charger (my favorite) I would very likely put in a modern 6.1L, steering, suspension, AC, and sound system. And I'd drive it every single day with no fear of killing its value. It would look very stock from the outside, but it would not be. I would not however, alter a perfectly good (running/driving) period piece regardless of engine package. I'd repair what needs repairing, and that would be it. I would drive it less often maybe, but enjoy it just as much. I believe resto-mods and other custom pieces have an important place in the automotive world. Whatever it takes to keep them on the road.

I like this project. I dig fender-less rods of the fat fender era. I've done a '37 myself. One big improvement I could suggest is better photos. Try a camera with a macro function (lil flower symbol on most cameras) and as much natural light as you can find. Looking forward to seeing more.

Some cars are just too far gone or incomplete to do a full restoration on. No interior, no engine etc. So a custom or a resto-mod is a no brainer. Also a lot of people will drive incredible distances for cars shows, tours and the like. I don't know about you but I'd rather have modern equipment under the hood for a long trip.

I'm sorry to hear that. Was it a total loss?

Well my trip got postponed for two weeks so I got my build back out. I finished the scratch building for the Pacer rear suspension. Panhard bar. Traction bars And the shock absorber mounts

Of course. The trick is, to make it unnoticeable. Per the rules on Page 1, we need to see a pic of the unstarted kit or whatever pile-o-parts you're using.

Check the sports car in the back. I stared at this for a good ten minutes before the proprietor let the cat out of the bag. It's a Bangert Manta Ray. My brief research leads me to believe there were a few released as kits, and a few more as production cars. It's on a Maserati chassis and originally came with an early hemi, which is sadly missing. Pretty cool find. http://www.forgottenfiberglass.com/fiberglass-car-marques/bangert/the-bangert-manta-ray-limited-only-by-the-builders-imagination-motor-life-july-1955/

Boy did I find the mother load today. The limo was in front of a local garage and is in rear bad shape. The rest are in a place called Lincoln Land in Clearwater FL.

I buy it directly from Bare Metal. It eliminates the shelf life issues and any sort of hobby shop mark up. $6.95 for a sheet and shipping is pretty negligible especially if you buy more than one sheet. They even have a how-to book for $2.50.