Jantrix

Very nice! Great work.

Sounds like suicide. Thanks for the info. I don't feel bad about the Corvette running gear and 427 now.

Wow Greg. Great compliment. Thanks very much. As for various sizes, I can't say. I just stumbled over these at Michaels. They come in a little tube about three inches long with a black cap on it. Easily 300 of these in the tube. The curved hardline coming off the fuel rails are "beading pins" from the same area. They are the perfect size for the beads.

George I did look at moving up the front cross-member, but the Stude engine needs that much clearance there. The lower pulley was just a couple mils from the cross-member. Thanks for kicking this around with me guys. I appreciate the assist. Good luck George, let us know how it works out.

Guys, I have cut out the original front end and added the front and rear suspension from a Revell 68 Corvette. Since I'm building a custom road machine anyway, it's no big deal. The stock suspension would have been easier but life goes on. Philo thanks for posting that second pic. You can really see how low the suspension/crossmember is. Pics of my revamped chassis as soon as I get the rear end narrowed a bit.

In the bead section at Michaels, I found some silver, plastic, hexagonal beads. With a little blue/red sharpie, they do real well as anodized fittings. You get about a million for a couple bucks. The only downside is that the corners of the sides are rounded. Not sharp like a real fitting would be.

Philo it does look fine from this vantage point. Would you show us a pic of the front of the car? A full nose shot? And then you'll see what I mean. Here's some shots. The fairing I added is lower then the stock bumper and fairing and still the suspension juts from beneath. A pic of the real car shows that the lower a-arms are visible, but just barely, and that is true of most cars anyway.

17 or 19 for me. The AMC engine threw me. And yeah that cammer was awesome in the duece.

I was planning on this as a Carrera Panamericana racer as well as for my Cannonball CBP. For the CP, from what I've read need to be very vintage and using original engines.

What is up with this front suspension? Why the heck does it sit so low? The lower a-arms are the lowest part of the car. The whole thing sticks out like a sore thumb when you look at it from the front. The Avanti isn't like this. My Google search of the real car doesn't show the suspension visible from the front of the car. Has anyone tackled this kit recently and dealt with this issue? What did you do? Any advice would be great. The depth of the front crossmember seems necessary for proper engine fitment, yet it's very low. Yuck.

A face only a mother could love.

Lately I'm seeing a lot of really flippin big photos in a lot of posts. 1600x1200 is way too big for a forum. This is REALLY annoying. Here's how to fix this. For the Photobucket crowd. 1. Log into Photobucket 2. Click UPLOAD NOW 3. at the bottom of the upload window is a clickable command "customize your upload options". Click it. 4. In the resize area of this window, click the 800x600 bubble, and then click "save" at the bottom. That's it you are done. Everything you upload from here on will be the perfect size for forum sharing and you will save yourself space on your album. For every other hosting site, there must be a similar function. Please find it.

Excellent work Jim! I love the headlight bar. Very different. I'm a little torn on the fenders, but that's just me. I'll have to wait and see it in the flesh. Is it too late to yank those wheels off? The mold seam on those tires sorta sticks out.

Wow. Great stuff. Keep at it!

The paint and decals look fantastic. Love it. As for the flash, it's not recommended to use anyway when using the macro function. It's possible that your camera turns it off automaticaly when you select the function.

Wayne, looking forward to seeing this come around. Keep at it. She needs a tall engine. A stovebolt 6 I think.

Well this is a really well thought out model. You planned a perfect traditional hot rod and you accomplished it. However I see a few issues that look like they could have been prevented by slowing down and taking a little more care. Keep at it.

Just tape the Mustang engine together and stick it in the F-100. If it looks right, use it.

I certainly can't fault your building skills or your cleverness in buying the sign. I've used them as well. That being said, the average width of a frame rail on a real 1:1 hot rod is about three inches. So if one millimeter is one inch in scale, your frame rails are how wide?

Yep, we know. Thanks.

There are two kit available for this Cord. An AMT kit and the Pyro/Lindberg kit. One kit is fine, the other has induced more bashing-the-kit-with-a-hammer attacks than any other. Guess which one you got there?

Ever heard the definition of insanity? Sounds like paint/primer incompatability to me. If you are using Tamiya lacquers, what primer are you using?

Window stretcher................. Question is.................are you finding out now after the car is 95% done and are now striking your skull upon the work surface? In this case, I'd think about trying the rear glass from the Revell 53 BelAir. Or are you finding out early while test fitting? In this case I'd add a split to the window, cut the glass in half and you're good to go. And who's to complain, it's "custom"!

Wow. That is some great work! And the photography is top notch. Very authentic.

The recently reissued AMT 1925 Double T kit comes with a drop tube front axle.