Jantrix

Your best bet would be to test first. Paint a spoon, cure, decal, clear. See what happens. In ANY case an acrylic over decals is always a sure bet.

Enamels take a long time to cure in humid areas. Try some Tamiya or Testors one shot lacquers.

The T-bird is off and running. Well more of a slow jog actually. This is an old kit. Lots of molding issues to fix. Got the engine block and chassis in primer. Marc@MPCmotorsports (thanks very much dude) is sending me the proper tires for this one and I'll get things rolling (pun intended). The color is going to be Duplicolor Mirage 'Ice'. And yepper this is gonna be a lowrider. My first. I wonder if this will make me hip now. Probably not.

Groovy-ness and awesome-itous fer sure. Great work.

On the construction, paint and detailing this RR is aces. Top notch. The wheels? Not so much. I think if you do some measuring, the rims are over-large even compared to the 19" front & 20" rear combo Chip likes to use. Remember 1 millimeter is nearly 1 scale inch. The over-large wheels make your awesome replica look like a toy. The wheels look like they would be incapable of turning in the front. Just my $.02

Dave, I have seen friends and family recover very well from strokes. You should be back at the bench in no time. Best wishes pardner.

I have found that the good things about going to a contest outweigh the potential problems.

I recommend Krylon Crystal Clear acrylic in this case. Acrylic can go over ANY paint and can be polished. It's good stuff.

WHOA! You sir- have my attention. *runs to Ebay*

Wow. That is nearly criminal. I've opted to not build it yet. The body is not molded well and I was in no mood to go about repairing it for a box stock build. I may do something with it, but no idea what. Thanks Mark.

Great stuff Dave. Glad to see you building again!

Absolutely amazing. Attention to detail is superb. Very authentic.

Certain things are allowed. BMF for one, is generally globally accepted on OOB because of what it brings to any model. Certain clubs might allow ignition wires or flocking, but that is probably the limit. No major surgery. No top chops or sectioning and the like, but things like smoothing badges, scripts, door handles etc. is usually okay. I've been recently researching this because I'm building one myself at the moment. One major thing I just found out - if your kit is an old style front axle-through the engine block kit, there had better be an axle though the engine block. According to IPMS guys in my old club that is.

SHWEET! Perfect colors. Ultra classy.

GREAT BUILD! Super realistic. Great weathering. Love it!

I'd love to see a realistic tire/wheel combo, but aside from that- great work. Way to be original!

I love 'em too. The challenge was, finding one that would be acceptable on this forum.

MPC did several 1/20 scale Corvettes back in the day. I once used one to fix up a Hubley woody when the kit wheels were crushed. Looked kinda cool.

Yep, what he said. Not much to it.

Dude, I'm blown away by the simplicity of this, but it looks fantastic. A great color combination and painting skills.

Sounds cool. Looks good so far.

I'll be paying attention to this. Looking forward to it.

How about telling us a little bit about em, what you did to them etc. Looks like some great work. Got any more pics?

Yes to both.