Flat32

Checked out the Miniart website. Fascinating "About us" read.

If I were to try scratch building the scale I'd choose would be 25.4:1 or a simple 1mm=1". That way a digital caliper in mm mode would simply be read as 1:1 scale inches. A metric dial caliper would be the same only lacking the ability to switch the measurement to actual inches. Using 25.4 as a scale might allow the scratch built model to "fit" reasonably well alongside either 1:25 or 1:24 kit models.

That paint looks like it would be a good asphalt surface for dioramas.

Use of magnets and building provision for them into the 3D prints is a very neat trick that I'll certainly be using. Will be incorporating in many of my existing CAD models. This one should be included in the Tips and Tricks.

That is a prime example of a part that will be a scratch building challenge, but also a nice 3D CAD and subsequent printing challenge. Not possible for me to do the former. Easy for me to do the latter. Both are rewarding ways to create a part.

This entire thread fascinates me more now than when I first saw it. Thanks for adding to it. Owned and loved a 1965 Corsa convertible, but the discussion related to the engine molds and Chevrolet prototype history are especially interesting.

So it's just about zip for women on this forum. So what about teenagers?? Perhaps if we include the the 20 to 30 year olds? Seems like ordinary old men.

Have a couple Optivisor type visor magnifiers and hadn't been impressed for some reason. Read through Peteski's comments, which I have great respect for, and got a couple "real" Donegan Optivisors, a DA 5 and a DA 7. Substantial difference in clarity and wearing comfort. Real Donegan Optivisors are worth the money IMHO. My thanks to Peteski for his always reliable information posts.

While many women do various things that can be considered a form of modelling I wonder if there are any on this forum doing car kits. Also wonder if any forum members are in their teens.

As I'm getting older eyesight has been changing so I found myself looking for more and better magnification. Just recently began wondering what's going on. Had visited an eye doctor to get a bump removed from an eyelid. Left with the bump, a referral to a specialist cancer guy and a couple brochures, one on cataracs and one on glaucoma. Doc said I'm developing these things. Basal cell carcinoma got removed along with 25% of my lower eyelid. What I've discovered is what they call ghost imaging. It's not blurring and in my case it's a faint double image most noticeable looking at text. There is a name for the condition found with Google. Making appointment to talk to doc about it. Sorry for the long winded comment, but the point is don't overlook going to an eye doctor if you are having eyesight difficulties. You might have a progressive condition needing treatment.

There's an app for that. Called Magnifier plus on my phone. Will even take a picture. Just wait until tri-lingual labelling gets mandated. Paint makers could/should have a nice large master label, mabe index card size and free at LHS, for each type or series of paint with the type code on the lid and only color on the label nice and big.

I think this is where I got mine. Been a couple years ago. https://www.mcmaster.com/hypodermic-tubing

Was needing to fatten up some thin wire so I could grip it in my Tamiya hobby drill. Figured I could wrap the wire with thread and then apply some CA. Problem of wrapping thread led me to looking at fly tying tools. Now that hobby has some interesting tools that modellers might find useful. Started with this youtube vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ItONN8vluI

The blade collet will clamp on some very small diameter wire or drills like a pin vise. I'm planning on copying and adapting the collet for my Tamiya hole poking machine which only grips larger than .030" now.

Yes, the email to self works and I've used it. Takes a bit of time and some steps and uses the internet. Here's an example photo I just did with the Google cloud and it took almost two minutes for the process.

USB transfer I'm familiar with. Google cloud I've just gotten a little familiar with, enough to do a couple trial runs. What I'm looking to do is set up a synced shared folder between the pc and phone that works wireless using either blue tooth or wifi. I don't want dependence on the internet cloud or the cell phone carrier for this where it goes through a process of uploading and downloading on offsite servers. Scenario is I'm on a forum where I'd like to post snippets of my skunk works model build operation currently located in laundry room. Problem is my inability to understand the nuts and bolts of setting up local networks.

I'm fairly computer savvy, but have a problem setting up my win 10 laptop to automatically receive photos I take with my Samsung A50 Android phone. Don't have any twelve year olds available to set it up. Tried following Microsoft instructions and just get confused when they ask for a password without identifying a password for what??? The phone? My computer? My wifi network? Bluetooth? Some Microsoft account? I get three layers deep in Windows instructions and get lost. I feel like I'm trying to do something that is stupid simple and must be overthinking it somewhere. Anybody know where the secret sauce is???

OCD is a label with somewhat negative connotations often applied by folks that have no knowledge or understanding of perfectly logical behavior often encountered when a real passion exists. I've noticed many of the great modellers on this forum have extensive racks of paints in their build bench photos. BTW, even thinking you might be insane is a proof that you are not.

Walkways near the garage door openings are usually rounded on the corners so they don't damage tires if hit. Check some reference photos.

Never tried this, but Molotow thins with isopropyl alcohol so maybe putting a few drops in the cap before storing it would help. Most online advice for storage position says lay them flat. Also never tried, but remember when your Mom used to shake down the thermometer before she jammed under your tongue?

This is true for side glass and for scale model purposes simple curves probably work quite OK, but he fact is many, if not most, windshields are compound curves. The top to bottom curve isn't very pronounced, but it is there and might even be noticed on a model. In the real world the curve enhances strength and reduces reflected glare.

Very nice grille job, but what's the license plate doing behind it??? IMHO I'd opt for a state that doesn't require a front plate or put it in front of the grille. Seems like it actually detracts behind there. In real life it would take a major effort to stick one in there, might not be legal and certainly block air flow to the over heating prone souped up Flathead.

There are 3D printing resins that flow very well and will form a natural fillet. Cures with the same UV light. Sandable when fully cured. Not like honey.

Thanks for the nail info. Ordered what you linked to. Too bad the original source is no longer.