Flat32

Wife went to Costco to buy bulbs. Told her 65 watt LED flood and she brings home these. User guide has 49 steps detailing use of functions. Over my head.

Anybody deciding yet on colors to paint these??

I also ordered and received one of these. Found it curious that there are 8 Weber carbs, but glad there are since one of the stacks has a broken out section. They are very thin and realistically scaled.

I ordered the two bottom ones. Will order the DOHC in 1/24 should it become available.

You might consider making the hinges solid, but fully detailed, in their open position, and attach to the car via magnets. The top bracket that attaches to the hood could fit into a slot in the hood or even be hinged sideways to fold flat against the hood underside when closed. Of course it would take some manipulation to set up the open hood for static display.

Checked it out and found it very interesting. Thanks for posting the link. I play with DLP, polyjet, SLA and filament printing. My favorite printer is my Ultimaker 2+ with .25 nozzle and PLA. Solus DLP is my favorite UV resin printer for very small detail parts. Formlabs Form 2 does my larger detailed parts. But I only make parts. Never a completed model. Enjoy the CAD work mostly. Your model being completed is inspirational and beautifully done.

Looks like a fresh paint job. I'd guess either a stupid mistake or a joke at the paint shop. Being that the image was posted on the internet it might have been done as "clickbait". Don't waste your time trying to figure a practical or functional reason. There is none.

Looks like somebody installed the grille upside down which apparently doubled the "normal" offset. Grille attachment points are offset and centered around the offset radiator. Clear as mud.

Apparently was done with relatively simple spacers for stock fenders in the real world. found here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=647800

https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/30695-saw-this-big-mack-truck-moving-a-big-load-today/?/topic/30695-saw-this-big-mack-truck-moving-a-big-load-today/?hl=duffy#entry176135

I Googled Jungle Pam and selected images. There's a lot. I chose one to look at and clicked on the image which took me to somewhere, but not the image alone. Then, instead, I right clicked on the image and clicked "copy image address" which I then pasted into Google. This works most of the time to get you right to the specific image you want. Avoids the clickbait. Extremely helpful when researching.

Finally got what I wanted to do working. Can now take a photo with my Android phone and see the photo on my Win 10 pc using the Microsoft Your Phone app. I guess it's using wifi so probably range limited, but I think with auto connect turned on any photos I took while out of range will automatically get transferred as soon as I'm in range. Photo shows up on the pc in under 3 seconds. Don't know if the app is using the cloud or not.

This is the best resource I've found for technical information on this subject. https://books.google.com/books?id=Q4X1ovFVBvoC&lpg=RA1-PA34&ots=onnbtk1uSo&dq=red color dye migration in plastics&pg=RA1-PA31#v=onepage&q=red color dye migration in plastics&f=false

The simple test I suggested is only aimed at determining if the color migrates or not in only the one case at hand. If it doesn't migrate then lack of coverage opacity would be a more probable cause of the problem. Could even be both happening. The technical articles I'm finding mention color dyes being more prone to migration than pigments and there are many different dyes with different characteristics. You would be surprised how uncontrolled the coloring of plastic was only thirty years ago. I spent twenty years in Taiwan getting plastic parts tooled and produced by small and medium sized molding shops. You get to see how many ways there are to screw up and who takes the blame. My wife may still have her red sweatshirt. I threw away my pink underwear.

Did a little research and found that color dye, as opposed to inorganic pigment, is commonly used for coloring styrene and there is such a thing as solvent soluble powder forms of dye. I suspect this bleeding is maybe the paint solvent actually leaching the dye out of the plastic. I have no idea which paint solvents could leach the dye, could be all or only some. if this is the case. At any rate a simple test could be done on a sample of whatever colored plastic is in question. Take a bit of sprue wrapped in white paper that is wetted with whatever solvent is in your paint and put it in a zip bag to keep the solvent wet longer. Maybe a couple hours later unwrap and if the paper shows signs of color you've located the problem. Trick would be to test other solvents to see if there's one that won't leach the color. Most likely alcohol, the stuff that thins the Bin, will leach the least if at all. Just guessing here. Would make sense to paint first coat with a paint that uses a solvent that doesn't leach the dye.as a barrier coat. Would make sense also to have as much of the sanding done as possible so the barrier isn't compromised when sanding subsequent coats of normal primer.

Had to see one of these kits firsthand to believe what I'm seeing with this build. Ordered a couple, rec'd today, opened a box and found incredibly small detail parts superbly molded. Closed the box. I have no developed skill using glue and this kit is certainly not one to learn on. Would love to see how you do it.

Who made the kit and how old is it?? Do you have any of the red sprue to experiment with? Do you recall exactly what paints and thinners you used?? You have a very good example and if you can answer these questions you could be instrumental in pinning down the real cause and ultimate cure. My interest is related to the fact I've got a 3D printing resin that is loaded with a red pigment and I don't like using heavy coats of detail hiding primer paint.

I don't paint because I have not learned enough to do it with confidence. I pay attention to most of the comments made in the many threads about the subject and see many opinions. This thread has me a little confused in that I don't understand what the term "bleed through" is describing here. Is it actually a bleeding of color pigment (via migration) through the paint or is it just a coverage problem where the paints don't have enough opacity due to layer thickness or paint pigment density?

Used to have a '32 BB flatbed and put a '34 rear in it. Fond memories brought back seeing your model with more correct wheels and the crazy thing is the black 1956 Ford in the background. I had a black 1956 Ford convertible at the same time I had the truck some 60 years ago.

Certainly looks worth the trouble. I can tell you got some real satisfaction out of the challenge and are enjoying the result. I get to enjoy seeing it.

Carolina Chemical, LLC purchased through Amazon. I read all of the hazard warnings on every chemical I buy.

Rooting around my stuff I found my other 2 oz container of Insta-cure, had bought two and forgot. I can honestly say TWO in a million. This one is no hazard because ALL of the stuff got out of the bottle somehow and is a solid layer in the bottom of the box I put it in. Absolutely no indication that the glue escaped via the spout or screw on lid. I've purchased a couple varieties of Loctite, but wanted the super thin and also purchased a bottle of the insta-cure with the Bob Smith Industries brand name and in 1 oz. size. This one I'll have to hide in the fridge in a glass cup. Been using the CA to glue 3D printed PLA plastic. Just discovered by accident that there is a solvent that will work as a solvent glue on PLA like acetone works with styrene. Called methylene chloride and supposedly also can be used to smooth out layer lines on PLA filament prints the same way acetone is used on ABS filament prints. I struggle with the CA. It's messy and somewhat unpredictable in my hands. Oh yeah, got a batch of the Flexi tips and used one on my Bob Smith Insta-cure bottle. Made a mess because the Flexi tip split and leaked at the big end.

Looking at top of cowl relative to bottom of side windows. Original windshield relative to cowl wasn't too bad actually. Side window bottoms and beltline moldings (relative to cowl) is more prominent inaccuracy. Model will look good regardless.

This drill is a serious tool for making holes. But you don't need a bunch of drill bits to make holes. In fact if you need a very accurate sized hole to fit a certain size of pin or wire you can make a very simple hole poking bit. The design of the bit has the added benefit of being able to place the hole accurately by virtue of it's sharp tip. With it you can "feel" a scribed guideline. The point sharpness also makes it easier to poke a hole that is not perpendicular to the surface. The bit will produce a push fit through hole in wood or plastic, but can be easily "adjusted" to produce a controlled looser fit. The speed of the Tamiya makes this possible. Grind to shape shown. Technically it will be something like the pics. Actually you can eyeball it fairly easily and be off a couple degrees. Example photo is .028" diameter straight pins through a plastic tube using a same size straight pin as the bit.

Perhaps a legal definition of what a traffic stop is should be created (and published) wherein a period of time with no discernable forward motion is stated, like two or three seconds. Seems too subjective now. Big difference between my wife's view and mine. Her's gets her tickets.