bill-e-boy

Got the headers all completed, painted and installed. Install a fan belt on the motor and mounted it into the chassis. Next up was marrying the kit exhausts to the headers. I cleaned up the mould lines and drilled out the ends ready to fit up. I cut the kit exhausts at the K member and bridged the gap with some 2mm solder. Pinned and bored the ends so they all fit nicely The exhaust system was painted with SMS stainless steel (headers too) and installed Note to self - need to fix the brake booster mounting and brake line View from top side - this thing is getting close to final assembly Thanks for looking

Only just come to this. A superb build as usual Dennis. I am liking the colour combo a lot too, and I have used the Racing White and Champagne Gold colours in recent and current builds - just not together (yet)

Nice looking rod and a cool colour too. I have built a few of the AMT 32's over the years and the first car kit I built was a Phaeton.

Me too - same circumstances. After unpacking I just pushed it to the back of the cabinet. The tyres are made from a silicone rubber material and just dont like being stretched over the wheel I seem to remember he took the project on about 75% into the build. Just finished and got all the Kudos - along with Tim the Tollman when he raced Bob Vila who was in the Aluma Coupe

Goth the second colour on. Paints are Tamiya LP Racing white and Metallic Red. A reverse two tone. I have an issue I need to sort where the masking tape ate into the white. This is a known issue with Tamiya paints where they do take a while to fully harden. Even the lacquer takes a while just not as long as the acrylics. I waited three days but obviously not long enough. It is a bit hard to see in the white paint but it is there. Oh golly gosh (and some more explicit words were said)

Looking good Jim. That "whole bunch of nothing" certainly does take up a fair amount of time to achieve. And worth it too IMO

We are in the paint shop at the moment. I laid some Tamiya white primer/undercoat down and then sanded it ready for colour. I foiled the scripts on the sides and the Plymouth lettering on the hood and the trunk so I could clean off after paint. I was a bit messy as there was glue residue and the marks left form polishing down the foil in the matt primer . I cleaned what cold off with warm soapy water before hitting it with colour. We will wait and see if it works or not. I think a note to self about putting the foil on after the first gloss coat so the residue can be cleaned off easier.

Wicked looking 53 Bob

You are on the right track. Mockup, mock up and repeat when kit rodding

I too built it a while ago - just find the pix But I do have some of the real thing - it is at The Petersen Museum that I visited last year. And it is a superb looking car

And thanks to all above for fine comments - much appreciated

Hi Bill, thanks for the heads up - I checked my reference pix and you are correct - just straight pipes. Looks like a mod coming up - or do I leave to stay with OOB build - decisions, decisions.

Hi Jose, I had the same thoughts with the faint separation lines, hence the decision to scribe the junction prior to paint. The reason for this is to help guide the knife when applying the foil after paint. There are some tutorials for this and BMF application in the Tips, Tricks and Tutorials section. You can apply BMF prior to paint and am going to do that the front fender emblems. I would not do it to say the window trim as the foil will give you a better separation line

The engine is as Kooll as the rest of the car - WICKED!

I went to fit up a starter motor - one from a sbf from a 32 kit - and it would not fit as I mounted the trans too high. Oh dash. Remounted the trans a bit lower and got the starter motor mounted up and went to install the Fenton headers that came with the motor but the LH side clashed with the starter motor - surprise, surprise as the Fenton headers are asymmetric. The original flat motor has the starter on the RH side but the later multi-speed manual I am using has the starter on the opposite side. To get over this wee hiccup I have scratch built a header for the LH side copying the one from the RH side. I check fitted and the LH header now clashes with the steering column. When I moved the tranny down I suspected that I would need to alter the front motor mounts - they now need to be longer so I made new ones up. This is the third set so far in the build. You can just see one sneaking into frame on the LH side of the pic.

I have been procrastinating again. This time over scribing the chrome trim prior to paint to make foiling easier as there is a lot of faint trim especially around the top. Well I got down and did it. I used the thin tape as a guide to lessen the likelihood of run of with the scriber. The sciber I used is a 0.1mm Tamiya sciber - expensive but these things do a marvelous job. Nothing like good tools I also got to work on the mould lines and now the body is ready for its first undercoat

Has this bad boy got an engine?

What they all said - what else can I say.

My latest build. Tamiya Mica Red

What they all said - sharp as a tack

Looking Good And the Molotow touch ups are what is done - well at I do it too

Shrink tube can be made to stretch a little some the wall thickness can be kept down. The amazing thing about HS is it will normally shrink to half of it's original size Being an industrial sparkie I use it all the time

Heat shrink idea is cool I have used it to make 4n1 header collectors in the past

The older aircraft modelers that I know refer to clear coat as varnish and is most probably what they used back in the day. Typically varnish dries with a yellow cast which gets deeper over time. The older enamel clears had a finish like that and were most probably a form of varnish. The modern clears like Tamiya and Mr Color are acrylic (enamels and lacquer) clear paint and don't yellow over time and would be a better bet to use for modelling IMO stick with paints designed for modelling as they have finer pigments and clears are just that

My old 39 Dodge had a 3 on the tree and I think it may have been on some earlier models too A funny story - a group that I belong to went on a shed raid and this old geezer has a 28 Chrysler coupe that he converted the shifter from a floor shift to column mount - his story for doing this was so that the ladies could get closer to him. This would have been done in the early 50's going by his age