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bill-e-boy

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Everything posted by bill-e-boy

  1. Nice cleanly built model
  2. Cool build Russell
  3. I have had issues with clear eating into the colour below and messing up the paint. Also had ghosting, the worst being on chopped tops where you can still see the stretch line on the roof. I believe that silver or gold metallic paint can help here like blocking bleeding of dyes from coloured plastic. I have had some success with resting of a week or so between colour and clear coating. A modeling friend went as far as only applying a coat of paint to his model each weekend when he was at home. Took ages to paint but the effort was worth it as it is one of the best paint jobs I have seen.
  4. Yup done that too - but thought I would give the base colour a try to see how it goes.
  5. Thanks Jim. Yup the masking wasn't too bad - just tedious. It is not one of the jobs I love to do. I found from somewhere here a trick to lay down a coat of the unlaying colour to seal the masking and to decrease the likelyhood of bleed through. We shall see how this goes as I have masked off the dash panel and layed down some silver which is a greater contrast colour to the red
  6. And I finally got some pix down loaded for the vehicle for the inspiration and reference. My colour-way will differ a bit from this but it is such a nice tidy car to use for reference. It looks like a very accurate restoration of an unmolested car.
  7. Lots of stuff back from the paint shop. The SG black chassis and parts. The gas tank was painted ally first then masked prior to painting the rest SG black. The interior is gloss red mixed a little stiff and airbrushed from a distance to the effect of vinyl. The dash front had a heavy last shot to get some gloss up. The seat and door card inserts is flat red with some SG black added to darken it a little. The floor has had a few more heavy coats and looks a little darker which is what I am after as the carpets my reference car looks a tad darker than the inserts Reference car
  8. It has - on 39's it is mounted behind the axle - just hidden in that pix at the start. Certainly see it during the video.
  9. Got the carb linkages and frog mouths onto the carbs. I have drilled for fuel lines but will wait till final assembly to install those. The throttle return spring is a strand of copper wire from a small cable wound around a 0.5mm piece of piano wire and then stretched a little.
  10. Got a start on the motor. Mixed up some Tamiya acrylic paint for Mopar Turquoise. Started with sky blue and added some green and white to come up with the colour. SMS aluminum for the inlet. The chassis components are in the booth
  11. Thats what we have to do when we mess about with kits. It's got to look right
  12. I think the same Greg - hence my wish to build one. And I am a Mopar man to boot.
  13. Cool build there DW I will be doing mine as a resto done my way. Part original and part day2. An OOB build up with a fair amount of paint detail Main body in Tamiya racing white with a metallic red roof. Red interior and a stock weezy 383 with a 2 barrel carb - may change that yet as there are some 4bbl carbs in the box
  14. Next up on the bench as I progress with my 32 Coupe build
  15. Thanks Chris and Bob Been working on the induction system I have drilled the carbs for throttle shafts - 0.5mm brass wire. Also drilled out the fuel bowls for fuel lines And made some linkages from 0.25mm ally printing plate that I have had for years I cleaned up the linkages and fitted three of them to the carbs although it is a bit hard to see in the pix coz everything is the same colour Thanks for looking
  16. Claude, you have nailed it again - another fantastic build.
  17. Yup. just gets worse - time to walk away
  18. Talking of scratches in your paint finish - 1- I now use a finer grade of paper on the undercoat prior to paint especially lacquer - the scratches stay all the way to the last coat of clear 3- wait a few days between colour and clear 3- When colour sanding the clear coat I start with a finer grade say 3200 for the first session at least a week or two after last coat of paint, then I leave it to sit for a day or two to gas out some more before hitting it with the next grade. It is amazing how soft the paint is even after siting for a time 4- after rubbing out finish off with the Final Detail Carnuba wax or Mother's Brazilian Carnuba
  19. A superb old timey rod. There is a lot to like here and you have done a lot more work than you have said in your brief description. And all of it good too.
  20. Good work Bob. That has turned out great
  21. I would hate see one of your bad kits!! Looks good from the side - good work I would say
  22. My 32 Tudor build id under glass so got to do some work over the weekend. I colour sanded 3200 through to 8000g during the week taking my time and leaving it to sit and gas out some more between grit sizes. The Tamiya acrylic takes a while to harden and the wait time between paint and sanding of about 3-4 weeks was worth it Got some shine on it over the weekend and some work on minor stuff Thanks for looking
  23. Looking good James. I mixed a similar colour mix for my 32 coupe build and the finish off the gun was very flat. Even flatter than yours. I had to pour the clear to get it to shine but it did in the end Like the colour matched plug leads too
  24. I like how you have done this mod. The stock height can be a smidgeon too high. Must remember this
  25. Good to see this coming round again. Some nice builds here. A few of mine 56 Chrysler 300B- slammed with original hemi with some changed bits in engine bay. More about stance, wheels and colour choices 56 Nomad - 409 power 69 Torino Cobra Jet - very subtle stripe - colour is gun metal with light gun metal stripe
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