bill-e-boy

What they all said - sharp as a tack

Looking Good And the Molotow touch ups are what is done - well at I do it too

Shrink tube can be made to stretch a little some the wall thickness can be kept down. The amazing thing about HS is it will normally shrink to half of it's original size Being an industrial sparkie I use it all the time

Heat shrink idea is cool I have used it to make 4n1 header collectors in the past

The older aircraft modelers that I know refer to clear coat as varnish and is most probably what they used back in the day. Typically varnish dries with a yellow cast which gets deeper over time. The older enamel clears had a finish like that and were most probably a form of varnish. The modern clears like Tamiya and Mr Color are acrylic (enamels and lacquer) clear paint and don't yellow over time and would be a better bet to use for modelling IMO stick with paints designed for modelling as they have finer pigments and clears are just that

My old 39 Dodge had a 3 on the tree and I think it may have been on some earlier models too A funny story - a group that I belong to went on a shed raid and this old geezer has a 28 Chrysler coupe that he converted the shifter from a floor shift to column mount - his story for doing this was so that the ladies could get closer to him. This would have been done in the early 50's going by his age

Pix of 4 sources for future reference L-R Revell 29 (R)PU, Revell 29 Roadster, AMT 29 Roadster (Mod Rod, Ala Kart) and top the chrome AMT Ala Kart (original version) The Revell (R)PU is the most accurate although the top half is attached to the body. The others are all just wrong for a stock 28-29 A-Bone

Been messing with the motor-gearbox interface as I was not happy with what I had. I could not resist the temptation to line up a few flat motors that I have L-R - Motor for this build with 3x2's, Thickstun valve covers and 6 speed manual, repop with Ardun heads, repop with Offy heads, Revell 40 heading for a 26T pickup which I must get back onto.

Pix of some 1/25th flat motors L-R Resin repop with 3x2's and Thickstun head covers, resin repop with Ardun heads, resin repop with Offy heads, Revell 40 Ford Closeup of motor with Thickstun head covers - headed for a chopped 32 5w coupe Closeup of the 40 Revell motor headed to a 26T pickup (converted from a 26 Tudor)

Good job on the glasshouse. My wife builds similar models and has now quite a collection. It was good for her to find something to while away her retirement hours. I get roped in when there is an issue and to do the wiring (I am a sparkie). Will be good to see the 32 Phaeton project up and going again after the hiatus. The AMT 32 Phaeton was the first car kit that I built so I have a soft spot for them. Sadly it is not a survivor - or maybe not.) And I hope your health issues are sorted

Nice build Ron. For a "quickie" it turned out well

Nice build David. Good to see some well executed effort to fix up some of the shortfalls of this kit. Colour choices are cool too. And that hot rod stance.

Thanks John

Just caught up with this build thread and I am liking a whole lot of what I am seeing. Definitely some points to remember like the engine seams and the bobbed guard treatment. I dont have this kit, only the original release that I have a couple of. Will need to hunt one down. Unfortunately we don't have an Ollies or anything like it down these ways so will have to fork out big money for it. Typically Revell 32's are about $85-95 NZ dollars so we tend to spend wisely (mostly) And the Mica red suits the 32's well - it is what I used on my recently completed 32 Tudor build - must get it to Under Glass. Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow which is a light tan is another option for the interior. Gloss it up a bit with SG clear.

Forgot to add pix The battery caps I mixed up to match a pix I have of a battery. It looks like Mopar turquoise but is darker The red on the alternator is clear red to represent windings. The rest is out of the bottle stuff - flat ally, gloss black and matt blue You sure have to have a good range of colours for stock models. With Hot Rods just paint every thing the same or matching colours - much easier

An evening of fiddley paint details for the engine bay Thanks Jim. It is the low level diff for sure, so suits the weezy stock 2bbl 383. But ripping it out is extreme. Were you trying to lower it

And yup Greg I do read the instructions - see this post. Just sometimes we just know better. I think the 32 Sedan is the one where you really have to install the inner guards last as it is a bear to the interior to fit at the best of times

Well with a head full of self doubt I checked the instructions and pix of the real car. The instructions show the angled part of the spindle on the lower side - my lowering method is good. Whew. So I did a mock up and it looks OK to my eye.

Aren't they someone else's opinion😬 I wanted to finesse the body to chassis fit hence the change of sequence. The inner guard fitment is a little imprecise and needs work. Too late after paint.

Thanks Michael and Trevor Not sure about others but I do spend a lot of time thinking about colour choice and whether not to have colour combinations. I try not to have colours that clash like in the old days - think red running gear and say a yellow body. More subtle these days.

Thanks Craig.

Thinking about it I may have raised the ride height instead of lowering it. I may have read the instructions wrong and saw the spindle the wrong way round. I did consider flipping it but the way I read the instructions I did it the way I did. Oh well only plastic and not too hard to redo it.

Thanks Andrew. Glad I can pass something on. I have been doing this for a jolly long time and a lot of the things we do we take for granted. Even I take tips from here and I am always open for a better way to do it

Been sharing my time between this and my 65 Plymouth build I have worked out the motor fitment and have made up some new motor mounts that push the motor back a tad. This necessitated some massaging of the floor pan to get the trans to fit Got some work done on the brake lines on the axles and master cylinder. Hard lines are 32g craft wire and the flexibles is spark plug wire. I made up a junction block on the rear axle and chromed it with Molotow

Did a bit of work on the exhaust. Needs to be done before I assemble the rear end of the chassis. Although a new kit and should not have nasties like 30-50 year old kits have but it still needs time to tidy up the mould parting lines. Go to tools here are a sharp blade for scraping and a flexi-file for finishing off. So after an hour or so of scraping and sanding its off to the paint booth for some undercoat and a couple of coats of SMS stainless steel. I also opened up the outlet a tad with the point of a #11 blade. Clean up work - what a mess on my felt pad. And straight from the paint booth - and I cleaned up the felt pad. I mocked up the exhaust and rear end into the chassis. The rear end has had a bit of lowering by de-arching the springs a tad. This necessitated slotting the rear spring mounting holes and will mean the shocks will need some love to fit up too. By dropping the back end I needed to visit the front end Wasn't too difficult. I cut the original axle pin off and drilled a new hole as far up as I could for a 1.4mm rod. This will have a 2.4mm OD tube glued to it to mate up to the wheels. I got about 1.5mm lowering by doing this. Any more would require a fair bit of work and does not fit into the build theme. Will certainly look at lowering the front end in more depth in a future build. The pix shows the original axle cut off and the new mounting pin glued in. And to add to finish off a little tire rake. The wheels are from the Moebius 65 Belvedere with Satelite front tires and rear tyres from the parts box. Still undecided on whether to chrome the wheels without caps or to paint body colour with poverty caps Thanks for looking