bill-e-boy

Thanks guys Well the windshield, rear and quarter windows are - just hard to see in the pix

Much as I would like to use the Cragar engine I was thinking of something with a bit more power. I looked in the resin flatty stuff that was bequeathed me from my late mate Mike and I discovered I have three of these heads - perfect. Fits the esoteric theme I mentioned above perfectly. The discovery - an Ardun head on its lonesome just crying out to be fitted to a banger. Alo in the box was a S.C.O.T blower (or two) I mocked this up on the Monogram motor for the pix but I will not be using it as it is a bit blobby I have a donor Revel A kit with a motor I can use. This is an oldish kit that someone has chopped in the past and it has a few bits missing. I have made a start on gluing it together Oh - the mph is a reference is the FB group I am on - mph = miniature petrol heads Thanks for looking

Can't remember the seal detail as it was a long time ago - I think it would have been Street Rodder as that was the mag I was getting back then But the door stretch made a difference. I think the sideways jump seats were normal - I don't know lots on old Chebbies - I am a Mopar man

A local FB group is having a motor sport build off. Whilst most have opted for a more roundy-pounder themed builds I am having a go at a straight line build as it fits into my way of thinking. Looking for an early 60's style, nose high and banger powered I had a subject in mind but first I went looking and found these in the junk yard. I would have preferred slightly narrower slicks but this is all I could find Then I got this out of the stash. It is a recent arrival but I have at least one more Toying with motor choice - I have either this Banger Cragar OHV conversion or I may go a different route with something more exotic but it will definitely be an OHV conversion. I did the Cragar conversion a while back where I milled the valve cover from solid ally and the head is hand shaped and milled plastic Thanks for looking

The article Greg linked shows a very radical cop and an even more radical (body) section. The method of inserting spacers between the A&B and B&C pillars is the (correct) method I would use. The 37 Chev usually does not chop well IMO - but take it just as that - my opinion The rest of the kit is a bear to build where the biggest issue id to get the fenders, body and chassis to mate together nicely. Hence I have only built a couple of these over the years There was an article in one of the rod mags yonks ago and to help with some of the proportions of the top cut the doors were extended. The doors are fairly short even by coupe standards Good luck

Not welcome down here in NZ either. We don't have them amongst all of the other imported animals - some of which cause a lot of grief to our endangered birdlife. Although it seems they have more of an adverse effect on your model population😬

Better pix of interior

I did this a few years ago for a rat rod. Chassis from an AMT 23T. It is not difficult to do with some plastic stock

The body has finally met the chassis. Glued up with 5min Araldite epoxy

Got some shine on. I have used Tamiya paint so the old story of first cut with 3600g sanding cloth then let sit for a few days in the hot box. Then sand it out with all the other grits to 12000. Leave for a day then polish with Meguiars Brazilian Carnuba wax a couple of times. Patience is the key here😬 with Tamiya paints. Even the LP lacquers take time to cure fully While the paint was curing I worked on the interior - ready to mate up with the body when I have completed that Pix is a bit fuzzy - I took some with my big camera so will download a better pix later Meanwhile its FOIL time.

Hi Don, Me - I am a Kiwi - and although spring has arrived the temps are still a bit wintery a bit like Tassie. Oh, for some nice weather like you have this time of year A polishing kit has either sanding cloths or sponges with grit grades from 2000 to 12000g. Or there abouts anyway - mine is 2400 to 1200g. The kit usually will also have some polishing compound and a polishing rag to finish with. Mine is from Micro-Mark and is called "Micro-mesh Polishing Kit". I think Temu may have something similar. And like I said earlier leave Tamiya for at least a week before touching it - even after a spell in the dehydrator. And leave at least an overnight spell between sanding and polish. Tamiya paints take an age to harden but when they finally do you can get a jolly good shine with them And Stu, that 442 is stunning

The Tamiya gun metal is a nice colour. It is metallic so you can't colour sand/polish as it will come out patchy where you cut into the metal particles. Get some clear gloss on it - TS is good. Let it sit for at least a week preferably in a warm place - or use a food dehydrator if you have one - see posts in the tips section. When the clear has cured start with the polishing routine. If you have a polishing kit go through the grit grades up to the finest. Take care around sharp edges to prevent burn through. Then polish it - I use Megiurs Brazillian Carnuba wax then do the foil - whew The thing with Tamiya paints - they take time to harden and wont polish nicely until they are hard. A trick is to polish with the coarsest grade then let it cure at least overnight before using the next grit up If you do not have a polishing kit - mine is 2400-12000 grit - use some 2000g wet and dry sand paper cut into smal squares. Use it wet. To get a finer grit rub two pieces of 2000g together to dull it down some for the second cut. Then use some polish with some cut in it and finish off with the Carnuba. It is what we did before the advent of polishing kits Good luck

Been working on the chassis. I made up a front and rear spreader bars as I was not happy with the kit chrome ones. I used 1.6mm (1/16") stainless steel welding filler rod that I polished up in the lathe. I made slightly longer and filed back to size to fit snugly between the frame rails The motor is looking like a porcupine at the moment. These will find a place when I mount the body to the chassis - soon

Moving on with the assembly. Front end all squared in. The exhausts are in. The motor is in. The engine bay sheet metal and all the doodads attched to them all in. Rear end in - whew Engine bay shot - the engine is a BB and it looks small in there. Enough room for an elephant😁 And an underside shot Been following the instructions - well mostly. The wheels are staying off for a bit as I am going onto the interior and body polish and foil next

I like your concept too Found the pix I was looking for

If you have one use the chassis with the suicide front end from the AMT 23 T roadster or tall coupe - the chopped coupe, fruit wagon etc. The T is easy to Z I have added a Z to the back of a 29 Chassis I will put up a pix of the AMT T chassis when I find it

Dont let it touch other stuff. I may become transmitted..........

This is looking wicked Jim. Always wondered how the AMT bodies would work with the Revell chassis. The AMT bodies have quite a severe wedge section and give you a rakish look without trying. May not be too accurate for a stock looking car but in the right place perfect - just like here

Getting close to the finish line with this so I though a quick mockup to keep the juices flowing

A quickie mock up while I decide how to sort out front shocks as the front end has been lowered a fair amount. the body id still loose while i do the chassis work

Thanks for the offer Bill

I have completed the rear end installation. The scratch built shocks were assembled and glued in place. Looks a whole lot better than the kit shocks The front axle is glued in so work now on getting that end complete then we can get her up on all feet

Thanks Bill. Problem is I live at the other end of the world but appreciate the offer. I will live what is in the kit - mainy because it is an OOB build and I am building to the rules with an upcoming IPMS competition in mind. The rules are quite strict with only able to use what is in the box. Foil and decals being the only deviations allowed.

Mounted up the rear end and checked the kit drive shaft - oh darn too short. I mounted some 1/8" ally tube in the lathe and polished it up and cut to the new extended length. I cut the ends off the original shaft and filled down stubs to fit into the new shaft tube and glued up with 5m epoxy. Thanks for looking

Body is back in the paint shop for clearcoating after I sanded out the worst of the masking tape rash and fixing some red overspray Between coats and sanding between coats I did some assembly work on chassis and motor. This is a very nice Mopar B motor I must say. Moebius call for it to be assembled as a wheezy old 2bbl 383 and give you the air cleaner decal for a 426 Commando. The carbs and intake are in the kit but not the air cleaner for the 426 so I have not put a decal on the air cleaner. I lost a front shock whilst cleaning it up, it pinged off somewhere so I made two replacements and have painted them metallic blue. Chassis assembly will continue when the paint dries.