bill-e-boy

Chop looking good. For some reason the sedan looks better when you lay back the A pillar rather than stretching the roof line between the A and B pillars as you do on a coupe - either 3 or 5 window I will take note of how you did it as I have a chop on a 32 Sedan on my wish list. Did one on a AMT Sedan years ago before they became unobtainable. I layed the screen back on this. The blue windows is a nod to @tim boyd

Some more pix of where I am at The rear of the cab if upholstered in vinyl and has a mountain of buttons. The method to make these was to heat stretch some sprue and then cutting into 10mm long pieces. These were placed close to a hot soldering iron to make one mushroom head. Meanwhile the button pattern was marked out on the cab and holes drilled and then countersunk. The next step was to insert the button into a hole cut to length and mushroom with the soldering iron - it took some time from memory So we now have buttons on both sides The assembled cab

Moebius Chrysler 300B done in a restomod syle The modification list is long The car is lowered quite a bit - in the rear by moving spring shackle mounts up. In the front with dropped spindles giving a total of 3" in the back and 4" in the front for a nice bit of rake Engine has an air cleaner similar in style to the original but with dry elements rather than the water bath Engine and engine bay has been detailed along with machined brake booster, brake lines, 12V battery and cables Wheels upgrade to big inch with disc brakes Interior detailed and steeri

Now under glass

Nice build Makes me green with envy

I 2nd - Is that a photo of the model, or 1:1 vehicle? Seriously - I thought I was looking at 1:1 scale. Only after I started looking more carefully at things like the wiper arm, the cowl vents, and the shape of the water pump, I realized it is a model. It looks great

Yonks ago a local rodder - Royce Fisher - built a closed cab from a cut down 26 T Tudor sedan. The build started in the early-mid 60's and was on the road in late 60's. I remember seeing it in 69 at a gas station. I lived about 45 minute drive away from the city where the Royce was based. I eventually moved there too. The NZ Hot Rod magazine article attached is from 73 and I remember attending that show. The club that Royce was a founding member of is having their 50th anniversary this year. Unfortunately Royce passed a number of years ago but he is remembered and the profile of his pickup is

I have used a number of different sizes of copper wire for winding springs. Typically if you strip some electronics type wire they have 3-7 cores that are fairly small. some are even tinned which looks a bit like zinc plating. Also the local electronics store has small rewind wire in small rolls. Small electrical wire can be used for allsorts - hoses, battery cables etc - and is available in all sorts of sizes - most people chuck a lot of it out You need to wind the wire around a former such as 1/64 piano wire. The scale size of a lot of throttle return springs is about 3/4-1" dia = .75-1

I wasn't happy with the 6V battery so found one in the parts box and detailed it up I am impressed with the tail light detail - looks very real More work getting bling added. I now have parts A and B With a bit of work A+B+C Some more work yet before I get it "Under Glass" but it will be soon

Getting along with final assembly. Firewall and radiator support installed

A fine job Dennis - captured the era well I too have most of the Street Rodder magazines stashed away. These and the other model mag articles that Tim has done has always been impressive and at time inspiration.

Al - looked at a Viper V10 but felt it would be better with a modern Hemi or as I finally did go with old school but modernised early Hemi - I did not have a late Hemi to hand which went a way to deciding with the 392 Your take on the 300B looks great The Mobieus kits have lots of sharp and good detail but the work to get rid of the mould lines on the body take a bit of time Thanks to the other guys for the kind words too

Thanks Tim Looks like you Z'ed the frame at the rear to get it down. And a 4 banger to boot - a Pinto 2ltr? A Pinto would struggle to rotate the slicks let alone make smoke. LOL

I pulled a Lil John 34 coupe build up and compared it to the 29 closed cab. Wheel based on the LJ chassis will need to be lengthened a tad but this should be fairly easy As I consider Lil John to be the originator of the billet phase the use of one of his chassis for a closed cab build up would be fitting. A wheel change to some blingy directionals, a bit of chassis work - too easy View of LJ underside Even has a Ford in a Ford to appease the faithful View to show how much the chassis will need to lengthened The 34 kit body is way out of scale and doe

And a background shot of my workbench and environs

A bit of an update Interior complete, engine wired and detailed, mounted in chassis. Chassis complete with suspensions and exhaust added. Some lines added to chassis It is low, real low - not even bagged. I lowered rear with lowering blocks and spring relocation. Front end lowered with dropped spindles Paint done and rubbed out and waxed. Presently foiling and getting ready to detail badges and other little things

Been following this and I am impressed with the builds and the positive comments from all the hobby heavyweights (sic) I have stashed away a box with a Lil John 26T chassis and running gear with a closed cab pick up body waiting for a build up. Parts are left over from a 26T sedan cut down to a pick up with an A chassis that is a staled project - need to get back to it ASAP

The Tamiya Mica Red is a stunning colour choice I have just finished rubbing out and polishing a Chrysler 300B that I painted in the same colour and I am mightily impressed with it

With Testors paints I have always thinned it 1x paint 1 1/2 thinners - Testors thinners or laquer thinners - Airbrush is Badger 250 running at 22-25 pound I have a hot box where the paint and model sit before, during and after paint - just a big 2ft square box with a 40W lamp - and dimmed for a couple of days to post cure Generally orange peel is light and easily rubbed out with polishing kit One other trick is application - a couple of light coats, a couple of wet coats and progressively add thinner with a couple more wet coats - watch out with metallics as you can get tiger st

Brass Grab some Tamiya brass and mix in some flatting agent (also Tamiya)

Nice set of 56 models in the groups Partial to the 56 Dodge as I have the real thing. Same model Custom Royal Lancer 2 door pillarless

A modern equivalent would be the OHV Ford engine in the Tamiya Lotus Seven Those old Thames and 4 door Prefect cars were dire. Under powered and fell over easy if cornered too fast. 0-60 in about five hours because that how long it took to find a long enough steep down hill run with a tail wind. And then you were lucky to get to 60. LOL

AMT 32 Sedan, chopped with slanted back A pillars, XKE Jag front and rear, kit Ford 427 with C6 from spares box grafted on, scratch built headers, card and air cleaner from 69 Torino Cobra, custom mixed Humbrol enamels with clear coat. Built around 79/80 before it was known that the dies were missing. Windows tinted blue clear film to match running gear colours. Wire wheels are from a Monogram kit with the rears widened. This was the flavour of rodding at the time - retro rod with modern running gear. This is the mid 70's reissue.

AMT 32 5 window that I built about 30 years ago.

One thing I have to say is I had to spend an awful amount of time cleaning up the moulding lines on the body. They are faint but they are there all the same and need attention