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Everything posted by bill-e-boy

  1. What a blast from the past. I built one way back when and it still looks OK. It builds up into a nice model. With the ravages of time I see the screen and motor need to be glued back in
  2. A cool ride - nice colour too. I too have used the Ala Kart interior in a couple of my Model A builds and they have come out OK. The Ala Kart chrome windshield/dash combo fits too
  3. Thank Robert Been working on getting it up on wheels Brake lines, backing plates and spring on the rear end first off Next up attach rear radius rods and then move on to the front end. I am happy that it is all going together OK as I did some of the engineering 20 years ago All together ready for the next step - Install the motor - I needed to change the front mounts a little. This is done - just waiting for the paint to dry The wheels are on loose and to check all OK
  4. Hi Alan Nice conversion of the old Monogram 32. The other projects look interesting to The roadster without the reveal looks good. There were some earlier repro chassis builders did not build in the reveal in their frames so you can get away without the reveal.
  5. A stunning build You know when you have it when it all looks like it came straight from the (kit) box. Very clean, stance spot on, choice of wheels, engine and interior all work together to give an excellent result. The expression "the sum of the parts is greater than the whole" springs to mind.
  6. I have been working on getting more coats of green paint on all the parts that require it. The original paint was a bit thin so more green squirted on. Body and chassis clear coated too. It is like going down memory lane using Testors enamels again. Used to be my paint of choice Got more work done on the motor with assembly and detailing almost complete
  7. Fixed the bad spark plug boot. Have decided to leave red but with a black wash Been working on more scratchbuilt detail items I turned up a beehive coil and made some brake and clutch master cylinders from rod and plastic card. Need to get items to the paint booth but a few more items to get ready first. Wasted an evening looking for a fuel pump and oil breather and was about to scratch one up when I rechecked the pix I have to find that the fuel log is fed by a line that comes up from the chassis - looks like Royce may have used an electric pump next to the fuel tank -DOH
  8. A nice looking rod Ismo. Particularly like the angle cut on the A pillar as it makes it look longer. I have been following the current 32 Roadster build that Aulis has on the HAMB -very talented builder
  9. Working on more small stuff and getting paint on them A bunch of parts ready to come out of the hot box And chrome parts that were originally painted with Alclad and now overcoated with Molotow. The pix is a little dark but the finish on the parts is really good Got some time on the motor tonight. Now partly dressed Looks like I may have to redo one red sleeve. They are all yet to be painted black but left it red for the photo - black on black is very hard to photo A lot of parts have been or are about to be painted. The paint is Testors Jade Gr
  10. A modeler friend who had a Unimat 3 replaced his with something similar a while back. Said it is a lot better as it has a lot more features like the ability to screw cut and has a proper chuck. He does serious modelling like scratch building a 1/32 of a Caterpillar D8 dozer and lots of steam stuff.
  11. Cool project and an excellent result I have a Unimat 3 which is about the same size and it certainly has added another dimension to my modelling. It has a drill/milling attachment that I have used on occasion as well
  12. Further to my post above I sprayed some Molotow a couple of nights ago and below is the result Thinned 100% with lacquer thinners and spent 24hrs in my hot box. The results are very good. most of these items had been painted with Alclad a long time ago and the finish was below what I was after so I reprayed with Molotow. The is one new part which is the flathead oil filter In real life they are not as dark as in the photo
  13. I use 30ml refills sprayed my air brush. I do thin it up to 100% with lacquer thinners. I lay down a light but full coat then come back 20-30mins later with a fuller coat and it come out nice and shiny like chrome. I let it cure in my hot box for a day and do not touch it for at least a week as it seems to harden with age. I use lacquer thinners or brush and roller cleaner for clean up as well I gave up on Alclad as the finish is so variable and the difference between enough build up and too much is one coat. It is also quite dark as compared to Molotow
  14. More work on the small things like carb air horns. Heat bent some plastic tube, cut to length on the inlet side and hand reamed out with Dremel cutters held in my big pin vice Dash board and seat from last time I worked on this - maybe 10 years ago. The seat pattern was scribed into a sanded down plain seat using guides for the corners and a straight edge for the straight parts Slowly getting all the small bits finished and painted More to come
  15. Looking good guys I just noticed that the donor A pickup kit I am using for the Royce Fisher build has smoothy hood sides - takes a bit of work out of cleaning up the stock hood sides And some period wheels and graphics - I think I will forego the graphics
  16. Thanks Kit. Fab work is a norm as I live a long way from the aftermarket suppliers. I have been "Kit Rodding" as I call it for a long time now and I don't always have the right part to fit the job at hand. The purchase of the lathe added another dimension to my model fab work - don't know how I got on without it Cheers Bill
  17. Thanks for the kind words Been hammering away at the small stuff Needed and crab style distributor so made one up. Took a couple of attempts to get it there. Started with some sprue that I machined to the needed diameter then filed a groove for the terminal posts. The posts are insulation striped off some some small wire and cut to length. A cap was glued over the groove and insulation then cut to length on my lathe with a stub to fit into the hole in the front of the engine block It is now complete but the pix will have to wait as the pix fairies dealt to the photo
  18. Ok -on with the modifications The original motor was mounted via a plate to the rear of the head stock As this would not be the case with the new motor I mounted the motor and the lathe on a piece 3mm ally plate. The motor mount holes were slotted to allow belt tensioning. The plate has rubber feet to stop the whole lot moving around the bench when it was running The motor and the lathe were dully mounted onto the plate The motor wired to the VSD and a control box mounted on top of the motor with the run/off switch and speed dial pot The VSD is set up
  19. Thanks for replies Bruda - I take note of comment re title - but not sure on how to change Peteski - 3ph motor may be overkill as far as size - its just the smallest motor I could get hold of. The main focus of the exercise was to have variable speed but without the drop off in torque as happens with the original motor. I could have sourced a smaller DC motor and drive but as I already had an AC drive available I decided to go down this route Ace-Garageguy - my big lathe is about half way between yours and a Unimat 3 or SL
  20. I am not sure if this is the correct Topic to put this post under but it is the closest I can see where it would fit In a nutshell I scored a used Emco Unimat 3 mini lathe via the local (NZ) online auction site The lathe was complete with all the usual fittings and had the milling attachment as a bonus. Also had lots of extras like tooling and other little doodads that often come with second gear. It was a little tatty though. The milling attachment is at the top of the photo I cleaned it up and freed up some stiff handle knobs. I did not take a chance so I replaced the ma
  21. Hi Alan, thanks for the kind words Royce was close to 6ft tall and he had issues with the cramped confines of the cab but he still drove it around. I remember he and another rodder drove from Palmerston North to Auckland in the middle of winter to enter into a show. Auckland is about 500km from Palmy. He also went to the South Island in it too. The guy who has the pick up now said its pretty hard to get into and out of I just remembered the back section of the body is the remainder of the top of the 26 T When I made up the buttons I made heaps as stretching sprue is an inexact
  22. Pix of lathe - it has had the original motor replaced with a the smallest three phase motor I could find and fitted with a variable speed drive.
  23. One of the major stumbling blocks that I could see was the headers. The originals were made from Holden car tail pipes and snake around the radius rods. The collectors were made from flathead oil filter housing. This was a novel idea but filter housings in 1/25th are few and far between. The other block was chrome plating. When I first started the model just 20 years ago there was no chrome paint systems available. My first attempt at the headers was not a great success but a couple of attempts later I ended up with that in the pix below. The motor is from an AMT 40 Ford but this has now
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