bill-e-boy

I have brought the build to the front of the bench. The local club has a Road and Track theme this month so let's see if I can get it over the line The body has been sitting for a while and the paint should be good and hard so I started to get some shine on it. Typical of pearl paints - they don't photograph well and look better in daylight in the flesh The interior needed some little thing that needed attending to so I did that too Got the floor board glued into place. The dog is supervising the job

Mine too But wait............

I took a couple of pix of my build up earlier this evening. Bear in mind that this was built more that 30yrs ago. Paint would have been a custom mix of Humbrol with Humbrol clear enamels and polished out with dulled 2000g wet n dry sandpaper and polished with car polish. And as said above it builds into a nice little hot rod

More, more please

Yup I have - a long, long time ago not long after it was first released in the 80's. It has the Butera T chassis with the body shrunk to match but builds up nicely. Here is a shot of the chassis where I got a bit carried away with detail

You would need to find some old rod brakes. Ol' Henry was a little late to the hydraulic brake party - 1939 for him

I got some cheap ones (a couple of sets actually) and the above is true. And another third are broken - most likely they were blunt or incorrectly ground. Years ago (at least 30 of them) I splashed out on a set like the Micro Mark ones but a different brand and they have been good. There are a few holes in the set that need to be filled but they have stayed sharp and if careful don't break readily. I have a lot of the PCB drill too but I keep them for use on my lathe I suppose when you look at it - you spend good money and look after the kit and they do good long service - or you buy cheap multiple times and add to that a whole heap of frustration. You pays your money and takes your chance

A cool diversion - a nicely written article

And AMT put them behind everything - 427 Ford, SBC, 392 Hemi, Nailhead and more. Every AMT 30's kit that had a modern motor had a SV trans behind it. Amazing really as they weren't that strong but here were a lot of adaptors available back in the day

That is the one that springs to mind first off, but it has an unknown blobby trans. Most probably an early otto. It is easy to cut the auto off and glue a replacement manual trans My build is about to get some love as I have put it to one side while I do a quickie buildup of a 32 5W Coupe

Well I nearly had the interior all finished up and went to glue the dash in and discovered that it would not fit. And the interior would not fit into the body either. It looks like I grabbed a 3W interior instead of a 5W - DOH!! And I had made such a nice job of it. Pix is of wrong interior I got the correct interior prepped it and now have painted it in off white and pearl moss green and it is nearly reader to assemble. The parts box steering wheel was missing a horn button so out to the lathe to turn one up. Looks fine after polishing and fitting to the wheel The motor is coming together. The ignition has been wired with the correct flat motor firing order. The Thickstun valve covers look cool and give the rather dull looking stock flat motor some panache. The bits that hang off the motor are in the paint process at the moment and will be dded when I have done all the detail work. A wee mock up to see that all is on the right track The project is still heading mostly to plan. I made a list at the start of the project So the deviations are: Manual over auto - makes sense with a flat motor Body - this is what started the project We got the old timey big n littles but went with the 300B wires Frame - no change - it is long (with gas tank and front horns) and usual treatment to lower both ends Hiboy - yes please Yet to dig up tail lights and likely to use large headlights Well the red paint got the heave ho in favour of green - just too many red cars And the interior is now cream and green Things have a way of changing during a build but big changes like colour choice have a huge impact on how the build turns out Thanks for looking

What a great tip Greg especially the glue holder tray I will take inspiration from the posts above Good to see cool low dollar tips

Great tip Greg. Nothing messes with the brain cells when you can't find that special tool you need at a crucial point. A tool less option is best. If you sawed off the recessed area and left the knurled part it would be shorter which may look nicer.

I have touched up small areas with an airbrush. Works especially well with lacquer paints but not so well with enamels. Lacquers blend well because the top layer etches into the lower layers If touching up and overspray are you will need to mask between the coloured areas

I agree with Dave that this could have been the original problem. Or The pick up tube on the was not sealing very well where it plugs into the bottom of the nozzle causing an air leak. The finish on some of the cheap air brushes is not great and a rough finish on the nozzle on the bottle or a poor finish in the nozzle receptacle could cause this. I use Badger (200 and 350) and Paache (H and VL) that I have picked at very good prices through our local online auction site As an aside - I am an industrial electrician and have had to carry out a lot of remedial works on machinery manufactured in Asian countries (you choose which one - but not Japan though). There are a lot of basic shortcuts like twisted wire joins in the cable ways that have been taped over, no earthing which is mandatory in NZ, and badly made off cable ends. We also have issues with equipment not matching voltage ratings for our grid and regulatory requirements. The time and money needed to carry out remedial work soon adds up and often the machine owner gets a surprise when he gets the bill for the works The worst I saw was a machine supplied with a lead with a male plug that plugged into a female socket on the machine - 400V waiting for someone to touch and get a zap - very very unsafe

Or heat the lid up gently with a hair drier (or paint stripper heat gun on low) to loosen it. Use a rag so you don't burn you pinkies. I also have a pair of plier type nut crackers with serrated jaws that are the ducks nuts for opening for opening screw caps. As for mixing I use a el-cheapo small flat screw driver about 2.5mm wide for mixing paints. Just wipe off with a tissue when done. Shaking works but with old paints takes an age and you end up with RSI I have a collection of these paint too - they are all sorts of colours and I occasionally use them up for small detail stuff

I have painted the upholstery. Off white main colour and Pearl Moss Green as the accent De-chromed and cleaned up the brake rotors and painted them SMS stainless steel with calipers accented with pearl green. Sorry no pix yet The gear shift was chunky so I made up a new one. The only part I kept from the kit part is the boot. The lever is a chrome pin and I machined an ally piston which ended up with a diameter of 2mm and a length of 2.5mm - much better Boot painted SG black and the rink groves highlighted with panel line accent And the kit rear coil overs are a bit clunky so I made some up. The body top and bottom is 2mm rod, the collars are 1/8" tube drilled out to 2mm and cut to 0.5mm slivers. The coil is some 28g silver coated wire wound around the 2mm rod and stretched out to look like a coil. The parts were cleaned up and painted aluminium Thanks for looking

Thanks. The colour looked better in the flesh but that is pearl for you. But the quality was not good. The new colour is closer to what I had mixed up as test dabs on an old fender. The clear is now curing in the hot box for a few days Thanks Bob but I painted over the whitewalls. They were just a little too off centre for my liking so I painted over them. But they do look cool though Thanks Michael - there are more updates in the wind And thanks to all the "Likes"

What they all said above - KOOL

Well the clear did not work - dash Gave the apple green pearl parts a good sand with 3200g sanding cloth and mixed up some Tamiya acrylic enamels as the base colours were avaialble. Main mix was 50/50 silver and light green with a bit of white to lighten the colour and some gold to give a bit of yellow colour and thinned with lacquer thinners. Body got about 5-6 coats of this and now s in the process of being clear coated with Tamiya X22 thinned with LT Colour is quite like the apple green pearl but as a metallic but maybe a bit brighter Also worked on the Moebius tyres that had slightly off centre tampo printed white wall. Paint mix was about 50/50 satin black and a dark gray The wheels and tyres have now been assembled so will move back onto the motor whilst waiting for the clear to harden up. The painted parts are curing in my hot box so will be left there for a couple of days before the colour sanding process starts and masking for the interior colours Thanks for looking

Tim a kool old timey build. Right on the money and off to TRoG we go The Ala Kart again gives up some very useful parts to your build.

Your roaster turned out OK for what you describe as a challenging build The only thing I don't like this 34 roadster and it's companion coupe kit is that the body scales out to closer to 1/28th as Revell shrunk the body to fit the shorter wheelbase Model T chassis. The chassis is the star of the IMO and lets face it Lil John Buttera started the whole billet craze

That's a cool artticle Tim. Good to see to it surface again with the car going through a resto I believe There was a clone made down here in NZ a few years ago that ended up on the US show circuit and is now back in NZ. The clone was based on the model as the original was still in hiding at the time.

After all the hard work you did it all came together in the end. I followed the build thread with a lot of interest as I have built one that came out so so as it was in the days before we had access to BMF so trim was hand painted - always iffy. I also have a couple in the stash so seeing this may nudge a build. The work you di to get the front sheet metal and chrome looking good really paid off The final stance is spot on as out of the box it is a bit high. A superlative build IMO

As everyone above has said this is one impressive build. Perfect colour choice and application and a very clean build. You must be very proud of it