bill-e-boy

That is a nice build. For some reason a lot of the SSII model were refrigerator white. I used to own a 1:1 one and it was racer red. You have added a lot of extra detail to a good base kit to make a very good rep stock model

I have found SMS primer is quite coarse straight off the gun. I think the primer has soaked up the colour and left you with a coarse finish. It needs sanding with 1500-2000 grit sand paper to take away the coarseness. The other is one of paint and it may have been sprayed from too far away. SMS is ready to use paint but it always helps to thin the top coats down a little more to help the paint settle and give a good finish. Then clear coat it the same way

When two toning obviously the separation lines will be based around the body trim. Sometimes they dont quite reach to create a full break. I know on my 1:1 56 dodge there is a paint break at the rear. As I said above sometimes you can create an artificial break by adding some Phantom trim like the separation between vinyl tops and the rest of the body. The good thing with using trim lines for colour breaks is you are not left with a ragged edge with a paint to paint break For the Ranchero you could add a trim line all around the base of the roof under the windows and have the whole greenhouse one colour and a second below that. Or even add in a third colour as you would then have two body break lines. Red, white n blue LOL Pix below is a 56 Nomad I did this a while back and the usual 56 paint breaks are quite different. The break is just behind the door which is a bit of trim I made up out of half round and foiled. This shot is before foil

Over with the name calling - nip it before it gets out of hand I dug out the NZAMT catalogue for 1970. These were available towards the end of 1969 as I assembled the 32 Phaeton instead of studying for our big High School exams - what was then known as School "C". AMT kits were being "Made under Licence" Tonka Manufacturing. Was there a tie between AMT and Tonka at the time - did AMT make the plastic parts for Tonka. IIRC there was a little jar of paint inside every box. It was shite - you could not brush paint it easily. It was like a lacquer paint - most probably the same formula as AMT rattle cans The following is the box art. The top is repeated on the side and both ends are the same The top and the sides are as @Can-Con posted above I have a few of the boxed kits in the catalogue and have built the following - Surf-n-Go, 32 Phaeton, 37 Chev, Mod Rod, 56 Vickie, 57 Ford HT, 69 Cobra (convert), 27 T Hillbillry HR and one of the drag team. Some have survived and most not Here is the body side of the Surf-n-Go I built. Quite posh in the day as it had a rattle can paint job. An interesting note is the interior is painted yellow - the same colour that the chassis I am using was painted in so that means my kit has some parts from my original build from 1970. It has lots of boogers in it and has been waxed. May have been rubbed out with tooth paste which was the choice of rubbing compound of the day.

Thanks or coming to the rescue @Can-Con. Yup, referring to a Kiwi as an Ocker is like calling a Canadian a Yank..... I did a bit of google search for Surf-n-Go and Surf Woody came up a lot - it has the option of dual slicks. Otherwise it looks identical. I did not find the Horse Hide Hauler and there may have been some packaging changes due to local difference as hardly anyone in NZ would have heard of Denny Mclain. There was little or no coverage of American Baseball circ 1970 in the media down here. We are only likely to see it these days via Pay TV in the middle of the night.

Good to see you and those builds look good Man those uncut sedans look tall. If ever there is a car that could do with a top chop it is the 32 Fords IMO. Same with 49 Mercs. I know we all do not have the desire or the skill levels to whack some inches out of the top of a car but 32's just scream cut me, cut me.......

Yup and has a low parts count Did some work over the weekend. Body got some primer laid down and now in the body shop for more work. The chassis was previously painted and then stripped so some effort went into the clean up and now is in the paint shop along with the motor. Paint is Testor metallic green in the little square jars. Ancient paint for an ancient model

The local FB group has a summer build going on so I thought I would play along. I have this incomplete AMT Surf-n-Go in the stash. I remember building this kit as a teenager way back when. The kit is what we refer to as NZAMT. AMT leased out the moulds to a local plastics company here in New Zealand in the late 60's and early 70's as we had at the time very restrictive import rules. If the manufactured item was seen to have some NZ input then that was OK. At the time our roads were teeming with English and Australian cars and they all had some amount of local content. American cars were few and far between. Luckily pre WWII there was less import restrictions and there were a number of American cars imported in that period. Hot Rodders delight Any on opening the box I found that there was no motor but all of the body and chassis parts are there. The motor dress up parts were there too. It had been started and is a bit of a glue bomb. The chassis had been painted and the paint (poorly) stripped off. The body had been poorly glued together as well. A search through my parts boxes netted some bits from 2 other builds and a SBF from a 32

For things like drip rails a shaped edge of an old blade used as a scraper works. And yup after modeling for a lifetime cleaning up after a chop job is still the hardest task to achieve with good results. A good dose of patience, lots of filling and sanding, priming and repeat is needed

Re the break at the rear. I did a 56 Nomad with a different colour scheme than normally seen so I made a small piece if trim with some half round rod for the colour break. I then foiled the trim and it looks like the factory put it there And Yup Bob - white first then mask and paint the darker coluor. I have not seen gold foil in the flesh. Is it anodised ally, if it is it may be a bit stiffer than normal foil. Will wait and watch

Things are moving on here and there are some great builds coming together. Got a bit of bench time over the weekend. Got some primer on and is now curing in the hot box. Had to do some more clean up on the chassis and is now ready for paint. Looks like the body need a truck load of work to do yet before colour For more - have a look at my build thread Cheers for now

Got some work done over the weekend. Made some collectors from heatshrink. I made a former up from 4 pieces 1.7mm solder, machined a cone and a 2mm solder outlet. Some 1/8" heat shrink just fitted over the outside of the primaries with a little pre-stretching and gave it some gentle heat And did some cleanup on the chassis and got some primer on it. All that did was show up some areas that needed more attention. It has now been re-primed and is ready for colour. And while I had the primer out, I shot some at the body and guards etc and now they are curing in my hot box And clearer pix of the motor Thanks for looking

Or too much cam and just doesn't work

I think the wedge for 68 is Turquoise - or at least to the reference in the Q&A section here. The hemi is Orange though. Only if you are building as a factory stock. If the theme is restored/updated the world is your oyster for colour choices I am building the same model so am reasonably fresh from researching all the different colour finishes for all of the various bits and bobs. There are a lot of different colours for factory stock build 440 Wedge

I am like @Speedpro, being a slowish builder. Even my quick builds seem to take months. I have slowed down on the work front and now am semi-retired and hope to have some more time to fill in at the workbench in between the honey-do's Got the motor near done. Scratched the coil/distributors and ignition wiring as I was not ha0ppy with the AMT effort. Also has a 3D printed air cleaner

Cool theme I see you have a few builds under way - a busy guy

There is a good tutorial on the Wingnut Wings web site. WW have shut down but their website is still up and running Wingnut Wings - Hints & Tips

As above - spot repair and reprime and paint area with good coverage and cover the whole model with last coat to keep colour the same. As long as you feather sand in your repairs and follow the same paint sequences as you used on the main part of the body - this being said with paint being applied via air brush in mind and not rattle cans

Good to see this moving again Bil With the glue thing I use Tamiya thin and if it is to be structural, I usually do a back up run with thin CA. Works for me. And yup the standard A-Bone chassis is way too high in the back and needs to come down by any means. Have you got a spare Revell roadster Lo-Boy chassis as this is Z'ed but most probably the same as you have now and it has a flat rear crossmember so you can use a quickie unless you graft in the x-member from the A-Bone I like your wheel and tire choice too

Got the interior and motor done. Lots of issues with the old guage decals but happy with the rest of the interior. Added a few details like the door handles, window toggle switches, glovebox door handle, modified steering column indicator and gear selector stems, spoon accelerator pedal, hand brake lever and the widened wheel tubs on the rear seat. Other wise stock

Still slow going but have a few things sorted Finished the interior. Added some scratch built parts to the rather spartan interior. A spoon accelerator pedal as there was only two foot pedals and the Modular motor is a manual, a couple of toggle switches for the electric windows made from flattened silver plated copper wire and finished off with Molotow, hand brake lever as posted earlier and a billet glovebox knob I turned up on my lathe The steering column as modified earlier was fitted and it really is for an automatic car but as the Modular motor from the AMT Vickie is a manual it will now be 5 on a tree!!!. The work I did widening the tubs on the rear seat turned out OK too. I had a lot of trouble with the guage decals - they must be getting a bit old and fragile as this build is from an original kit And the pix shows the side have sprung at the front - it is now glued back (again) I have done some work on the motor. I was not happy with the supplied AMT Vickie coil and plug wire set as it is very chunky around the coil area. I did some research and downloaded some pix and I ended up making two coil sets Here is my version in the raw And finally, the motor assembled with new plug wires and paint detail My they are ugly pix - I will take some better pix of the motor and post them up Thanks for looking

More like a month grrrh!!!

I am not bagging Tamiya paints as they have some mighty fine colours and products. But they do have some issues but when you know what they are you can work around them

Yup for the main part. The rest with a similar but wider tape. The top of the hood was fresh paint and the under side paint was a bit older and had no problems with the masking tape there I have had issues in the past with foil tape adhesive eating into Tamiya paints as well when using BMF as a paint mask. You just have to be patient and let the paint harden - seems to be OK then

Tamiya also have a retarding thinner and this helps with levelling of the paint finish. But as mentioned above it takes a while for Tamiya paints to harden even after being in a dehydrator. This is week old paint that has been in a dehydrator and then masked for under hood paint. Good thing is Tamiya paint falls off when washed down with Isoprop alcohol