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bill-e-boy

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Everything posted by bill-e-boy

  1. And a little off topic but relevant. Pix of a 32 Cabrolet with a similar tasteful roof line treatment that Speedpro has given to his sedan. Pix is from a car show in a little town about 30km from where I live
  2. Looking good Paul. I love your attention to detail which ends up as looking like it should be there and not an obvious add on or afterthought. The example is the altered hood sides due to the body being channeled. Once painted the underlying work will disappear and will look like it came in the box that way. The ultimate deception.
  3. Coming along nicely. The AMT fender sets have huge tubs in the rear so you can fit a big tyre in there. Maybe too big for a flat motor. And yup the belt line moulding is very vague on the AMT 40 series with little fading to none on the hood. Makes it a challenge to foil - or just sand it off and go de-chromed
  4. Looking good Bob. I built one years ago and they do come out good. Nice start with the (very) BBC. The one I built I scraped away inside of the hood side panels and opened up the vents so you could see into the engine bay. A nice way to show off your multi-carb VBBC
  5. I saw a great source for silicone tube - some re-useable silicone straws that I saw at the supermarket last week
  6. Kool project. What is the gearbox you are using as I have a chopped 5W I am gathering parts for and they are very similar to yours, eg Thickstun gear . I am looking at using the Sedan flat motor but don't want to run with the attached auto. By using a long tail shaft manual box you don't need to move the Revell chassis K member as it is quite a bit further back than on a stock chassis. Will be watching with a lot of interest Some Thickstun ref pix for you that I sourced from the interweb. The black and red motor is from the Speedway (Bills) collection. A wee photo bomb
  7. Body in the paint shop Fenders, firewall, floor boards have been clear coated. The body is in colour after a pink guide coat and a flat red base coat. I need to sand some goobers out before next coats. Meantime curing in the hot box
  8. A couple of nice Mopar builds Tim along with a good informative back story
  9. Lots of good work happening here. Will be following
  10. What they all said. I did one years ago based on an article in one of the hot rod magazines and it is exactly as how you have done yours. Good work
  11. Getting chassis assembled. Front wheels need help in keeping them in alignment. I used Revell glue on wheels as it is slower drying as this allows you time to get the wheels aligned. The chassis is on an offcut of sheet metal with some magnets used to keep the wheels in place. I did not have any issues with the rear wheels. Now up on all fours The front spreader bar is some 2mm stainless steel filler wire polished and cut to length. I had drilled the holes for this in the chassis prep stage The photo shows wheels a bit wobbly but I think the phone camera does that Side shot I am working on completing body work and have some paint on the guards and other smaller body parts. Waiting while paint cures Thanks for looking
  12. Yup - fish eyes for sure form some sort of contaminant. Strip, thoroughly clean down as above and repaint At tip for Tamiya metallics and pearls - us a flat as a base of same or similar colour to the top coat and you will find you will get a deeper colour with better coverage. Less creeping away at high points and better cover in the low points. Obviously the flat will not be metallic but a solid colour.
  13. Sorry - went bad. I meant so much chrome everywhere you just have to have chrome plated spark plug wires too
  14. Thanks for your kind words Chassis is 32 Phantom Vickie with narrowed rear for tubbed rear fenders. Rear end is a Li'l John independent from a 34 Coupe - that horrible out of scale thing that Revell did by shrinking a 34 body to fit a Model T chassis.
  15. Chrome plated wire LOL
  16. Bashing away at my build. Details, details and a few more details Added brake lines to the master cylinder. The lines are 32g hobby/bead making wire Motor is now assembled with the headers fitted. Headers painted with SMS stainless steel Prepping front brakes with hoses. Hose is 0.48mm and holes are 0.52m. Wire held in with superglue I had an oops when I went to install the rear coil over assembly and found there was nowhere to mount them to. I had to make a little bracket to mimic where the coil overs mounted on the Li'l John chassis. Installed the new mounts and finished off the rear end assembly. Also got the front end all together as well. The rear wheels halves needed clamping together and are now waiting for glue to dry. Fronts have been assembled Next up is install motor and wheels - whoopee Thanks for looking
  17. Looking good Kit. The fix around the passenger compartment doors has tidied it up heaps
  18. Another of your great left field builds. Great job Claude
  19. I have been chipping away at my sedan. I sprayed the tinted Tamiya primer on the guards and floor boards etc in preparation for a final sand before colour I cleaned up the Lil' John rear end. My version is from a 34 Coupe and had really quite bad flash so all of the chrome had to come off. On Lil'Johns 26 T where the rear end originated from is mostly billet ally so all of the parts were painted in SMS aluminum. The traction bars and tie rods were highlighted with Molotow chrome pen. The front end was stripped and cleaned and painted with SMS cold tone chrome over gloss black. All of the chassis components shown here ready for assembly and some more detailing Detailing the radiator. Main color is SMS aluminum with Tamiya Fine Line Accent flowed in between the fins. A final dry brush with some aluminum (not shown here) to complete. Thanks for looking
  20. Thanks Tim, we have missed you. Hope all is well
  21. Steve, I used to use ones like that too, but wire coat hangers are rather rare around our place. Like everything they have turned into plastic BAH!
  22. A most useful tip. Sweat the small stuff and the big stuff looks after it's self
  23. Glad to share and happy you have solved your dilemma
  24. Oh, I forgot to add - total cost was NZ$3.00 for the piano wire. All else as found in my workshop
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