bill-e-boy

More like a month grrrh!!!

I am not bagging Tamiya paints as they have some mighty fine colours and products. But they do have some issues but when you know what they are you can work around them

Yup for the main part. The rest with a similar but wider tape. The top of the hood was fresh paint and the under side paint was a bit older and had no problems with the masking tape there I have had issues in the past with foil tape adhesive eating into Tamiya paints as well when using BMF as a paint mask. You just have to be patient and let the paint harden - seems to be OK then

Tamiya also have a retarding thinner and this helps with levelling of the paint finish. But as mentioned above it takes a while for Tamiya paints to harden even after being in a dehydrator. This is week old paint that has been in a dehydrator and then masked for under hood paint. Good thing is Tamiya paint falls off when washed down with Isoprop alcohol

I have found that the Tamiya lacquer clear eats into the colour coats and you can get colour on your sanding pads when final sanding proir to polish. Also found that the Tamiya paint stays soft for a long time - both lacquer and acrylic. If colour sanded to soon you always get sanding scratches when starting with too coarse a grit. Even 2000 is too coarse - better to start with 3600 then move up. The finish will come up but you have to let the paint harden.

Volvo wagon - there was a BTC version a few years ago Pee off the purists and do a modern Ferrari or Lambo There is the Pommie Austin by Revell Fart 500 or original Mini -although both are a bit small Oz Holden - kits are expensive to start with A Jappa van - a number of kits are available A Mazda Rotobater with a blown roto engine And (HA HA) - a front driven Jappa with the slicks on the front and skinnies at the back This is getting silly

Things have been a bit slow as I had to fix up the milling attachment on my Unimat 3 lathe which cut into my bench time. Anyhow I have a few things ready for posting Firewall widening completed and now in primer ready for final sanding/filling. Compared with original. Hopefully I will not have any fit issues with the wide modular motor Top of motor with 3d printed air cleaner fitted. Air cleaner is way better than kit original. Painted semi-gloss black with silver dry brushed on filter ribs. I masked the inlet plenum chamber and sprayed the finned area with SMS chrome I have fitted the door handles shown in the last post Thanks for looking

Well being that it is the Mopar Nats and me being a diehard Mopar fan - anything standout really And have a good time

Make sure you take plenty of pix and post them for us that are a bit too far away to attend

Most of my airbrushes I have a used. Badger 350 which was given too me had issues with the air valve - I fixed that A Badger 200 that is my go-to airbrush came not working but I got it cheap and it had a whole raft of other stuff with it including a fridge compressor - all it needed was a tear down and clean up A couple of primo Paasche units, one of which looked line it had not been used Like @Ace-Garageguy I fix things so buying used generally does not faze me but I do try to be cautious So if the thing looks OK and there are a lot of pix showing the brush to be in clean and good condition and priced right go for it. Just bear in mind that if it is a clunker you may not want to ever go down the airbrush route ever again. As mentioned above buying new has some advantages

And more trim. I used 2mm PVC tape to guide the cutting around the back window and free handed the tight curves. I them moved to the fender trim and I used both 2mm detail tape (PVC) and Tamiya 1mm fine line masking tape. I first tried the 1mm masking tape on the fender trim but was to fine and the knife kept on wanting to wander. I then moved to the 2mm tape but I was concerned that it would not conform to the fender well curves but it was OK, so I did the other three fenders with it.

More work on the little details and changes Made up a hand brake lever to sit between the front seats. A triangle of plasti-card and a bit of wire. Will be painted same as interior with a small dab of black on the lever after it has been cut to length and cleaned up. I mocked up the firewall and the chassis with the motor to check for clearances. It looks like there will be a clash so I am in the process of widening the firewall recess Thanks for looking

All of the above. The problem I have found with leaving paint in the gun is separation if metallic paint is used and congealed bit hanging around the nozzle can find their way into your paint. You don't have to do a full clean out between coats but spraying some thinners through the airbrush and a wipe down of the nozzle with a larger modelling brush with clen thinners is usually enough. By the way you don't need to use Tamiya lacquer thinners with their acrylics as hardware store lacquer thinners is just fine. I believe you cant get lacquer thinners in all states in the US. I have heard from the plane guys that IPA works for Tamiya acrylic and lacquer paints too

Kit - what an outrageous build I vote for the wires with the big and bigger white walls. Pity the rears weren't a bit fatter

Looking good. Yup black'n'red go together really well. Built a few of these over the years

Sorry original post should read "32 Tudor - Chopped'' Cheers Bill-e-boy

Been beavering away at my build. I have had two model shows in two weekends so thing have slowed a bit Rear seats tubbed and interior now in paint I have done some work on a Parts by Parks steering column by replacing the blobby gear lever with a new unit with a turned tapered indicator knob And I have replaced the Vicky brake booster with a new unit turned up in my lathe. The original just did not look good after I cut it away from the chassis X-member Other work happening so if you want an update of more work be sure to check my original post - "32 Sedan - Chopped"

On with the build - been working on a number of fronts The rear seat area tubbing was completed and now has paint. As the carpet will be hard to see I will not flock it - or maybe. I have used a darker brown for the carpet which is the Tamiya LP-62 lacquer with dark brown added. I mixed the LP lacquer paint with Tamiya acrylic, and they seemed mix together. The seats and door cards were overcoated with semi-gloss clear and carpet is matt finish I decided to use a Parts by Parks billet steering column that I have had squirrelled away for yonks waiting for the right build. I was not happy with the blobby gear lever so that has been replaced with a pin with a small tapered knob on the opposite side for the indicator lever. It is hard to see as it is only 0.8mm in diameter on the large dimension. I machined this on my Unimat 3 lathe Parts by Parks column as it came Machining the indicator knob And the final result The door cards on the Revell 32 do not have any handles or winders. The window winders in this build will be replaced with electric windows so may put a couple of switches on the dash for that. For the door handles I flattened some silver coated copper wire and filed and shaped to suit. They were then painted with a new Molotow chrome pen. They will be cut to length when I fit them Moving on to the chassis I knew that I would need to do some work heare after the chassis mods. I tried to fit the mufflers in the chassi but they would just not fit. I have machined up some replacement cherry bombs. The Vicky kit exhausts are 1.8mm which scales out to 1.75" in real life. What serious rodder is going to use such skinny pipes, The new mufflers are drilled for 2" pipes which is better but 2.5" or 3" would have been better but I dont think I will have room for that size. I will be making new headers in 1.8mm solder when it arrives and 2mm for the exhausts from the collector onwards On a roll with my lathe - I was not happy with the brake booster after I separated it from the chassis crossmember. I turned up a replacement booster out of my diminishing stock of 8mm plastic round bar. You can see the remains of the original booster below the replacement. OD of the new booster is 7mm - 7" I am working on a number of fronts so will post more when I have completed more works Thanks for looking

Nothing like a challenge. I hear you on the fact that there is not much space left after the rear has been tubbed but I feel that a sedan that has had the rear seat deleted is not complete. I know in some extreme builds there just is not room for a rear seat. I don't think the tubbing in my case is to severe, in fact the rear seat is already tubed to cater for the hiboy version, I just made the tubs wider.

Pix from the IPMS show in Fielding New Zealand. Two clubs - Manawatu Scale Model Club and Wellington Scale Models got together for a show over the weekend. As this is an automotive modelling forum most pix will be that way inclined. I have not included any of the other classes as A: I did not take any pix on my phone and B: I am biased as I don't build anything much other than cars The models entered into all of the sections were of very high quality The first pix is of a Bently Brooklands that took out the First in Class and Best In Show. This is great as usually either planes, military or figures that beat us out of the top spot. The model is based on the Airfix big scale kit but is mostly scratch built including hand laced wheels, punched louvres and lots of 3D prints that the builder developed all of the 3D modelling for And my little mix - entered three models in the Hot Rod/Modified Car class and got a second and a third And the rest

Thanks guys The tip came from our own @StevenGuthmiller. There is a pinned tip in the Tips Section Thanks Steven

Been a while since the last post I was a bit peeved with the hood so it was put to one side and I started another project. We have a show coming up so I thought that this needs a push. I have stripped the paint from the hood and repainted. Needs a small rub down with final colour coat and clear. I will let it gas out some more this time before I mask up for the underside detail painting. I have also colour sanded and cut the body ready foil and decals. In the mean time I have got some foil on. I have started using fine line tape as a cutting guide for the foil - a whole lot easier as some of the trim is a little vague on this model

As I tubbed the rear guards I now need to look at the interior as it will not fit. Doing a bit of eyeball measuring it ooks like I can narrow the rear seat are down by one pleat on each side. Out comes the trusty razor saw. A tip here - if your saw is dragging a bit rub a candle across the blade, it makes a world of difference. First pix is marking cut lines and horizontal cuts made Next pix shows both sides cut with the passenger side tubbed with a strip of plastic. Drivers side has a cutting oops being filled in with a bit of plastic filler. The tub extensions are slightly wider and will be filled back to fit the door cards I have also been working on the body chop lines and paint detail of the engine but no pix of this yet Thanks for looking

Hi Chris, this is a cool build. I have only just seen this and you are doing amazing work on the 32. The engine and rear end look stunning. I noted that the quick change cover from the Revell 3 kit special is from the Lil John 34. I am using the same rear end for my 32 Sedan build up and boy was I surprised at the amount of flash on the parts. I used an earlier 26 T kit rear end for another last year and the flash was nowhere near as bad as the parts from the 3 kit special - maybe was a bad time for Revell The AMT 32 Phaeton was the first kit I built way back in 69. Did that in preference to studying for School C (yup I am a Kiwi too) so I have a soft spot for these. Keep up the good works

Go for it. It is scary looking at it for the first time but once in you will never go back. A 32 is a lot easier than say a 49 Merc. As @mrm says "you can do it"