bill-e-boy

My latest shot at making a body holder Materials - - 2mm piano wire - customwood Base - cut to suit - mine was a piece as found - Silicone tube - found and is about 1/4"od I have used piano wire as this is easy to get from a model shop and has a lot of spring, and it is quite hard. Bend up the piano wire - I used a vise and a soft hammer and cut to length. Unbent legs were 130mm and top is 75mm. Return is about 15mm. The ends have been cleaned up to allow ease of changed holes to suit body. The slicone tube is slid over the tube and is cut at 75mm I set out for drill 2mm holes on a 20 and 40mm wide spacing Body holder as made In use holder with a body fitted - in this case a 1/25th 32 coupe. Note 20mm spacing holes are being used And a very, very old and well used holder ready to be chucked out. Was made from coat hanger wire which is too soft IMO. The point contact did not always hold the body steady when in use

Been working on the bodyworks. Cleaning up and getting a coat of primer ready to clean up hopefully for the last of the primer coats. I mixed some red into the Tamiya white primer as the end colour is to be red. Shot some on the chassis and body And then a coat of Tamiya LP-79 flat red as a base coat. I have found Tamiya metallic colours do not cover that well so any help we give them hopefully the better the outcome - anyway looks better than pink and finally some colour Clear to come Thanks for looking

The front track of the AMT 32 Vickie was way to wide and the tire stuck out side of the guards - good for a 70's look but nowadays not so. I removed the boss from the Vickie wheel inners and messed with the disc brake spacing but I could not get enough back space. Then I looked closer at the Vickie wheel inner and it spaces the wheel out by about 2.5mm. That needed to go. I had a quick search through the parts bin but could not find a suitable rear inner or an outer I could modify to suite. The tyres are 17" and the id needed to be 17.3mm and most of my old wheels are in the parts box are 15"so no surprises there. So, I went to my lathe and turned up some wheel inners which is a fairly simple operation. After parting off at the flange end I cleaned that end up and put a small step like real wheels have and then polished them with some aluminum polish. They fit like a dream and really look the part and I now have enough back spacing to get the tires inside the guards and a bonus is a little more drop in the front because the tires aren't hanging up on the guards Nothing can beat the looks better of polished ally than real polished ally Thanks for looking

Looking good Scott

I trust everyone had a pleasant Xmas and New Year Have got back to the Deuce and assembled chassis and body for a mock up to check all is well From the pix it looks like there is a little finessing required around the rear of the body where it meets the guards. The front track is way too wide so I will narrow that down a bit - looks a little bit too 70's for my liking. The stance is good, so I am happy there. I have been working on the body cleaning up all the little gnarly bits from the chop and getting ready for paint Thanks for looking - till next time

Revell 32 sedan I am working on. Copped Revell body with tubbed guards, AMT Vickie chassis narrowed at rear for tubs, Vickie motor and Revell Lil' John rear end

I think the problem is that you opened the jars and let the air in when you put the BB's in. I to have a whole bunch of Testors square jars and the majority are still OK. If the lid is hard to get off chances are the lid will not reseal properly so I never open a jar until it is needed. I use a nut cracker to open tight jar lids

Thanks for the kind words Michael. I kicked my frame rails up so that I could get the Lil John rear end in and have the wheels fill the rear guards. Then came the question of where to put the fuel tank. As usual one modification here then creates a whole bunch of issues there Build time over the next couple of weeks is going to be patchy as it is now the summer silly season down these ways Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to all Cheers Bill-e-Boy

I too am thinking where best to put a filler as I have done away with the original tank. The tank location would be under the rear seat. My thoughts are below the belt line as then the fill pipe would be behind the seat - about a third of the way down. Being a modern take on the build a filler door would be good or one of those flashy filler caps like Kindig does.

I thought was differences it is just how I overcame a problem

You have nice proportions with your chop and lengthened doors. Well done

I use something similar to Ace's set up for working with and taking construction pix. I only have two "Equipoise" swing arm lights but they have higher LED wattage lamps in them. Also use them with a plain backdrop for glamour pix I use an Iphone 12+to take pix and use the zoom function to crop the image to what I want to portray. I would much rather uze the zoom function to crop the image than piss about cropping in Photoshop. The file size from the phone is fine to post here. The file size from a DSLR is too big and hase to be downsized using Photoshop or other photo editing app

I did a hemi engine swap into a Revell 68 Dodge Dart before the Hemi kit was released. I used the motor from a Revell GTX. I could not fit the GTX headers into the dart so used the 383 cast iron manifolds which fitted. The moral of the story - look for both wedge and hemi headers as they seem to cross fit - maybe with small mods The Revell Chargers have them too

The AMT 69 Cobra is dire. Lots of fitment issues with the worst being chassis to body alignment - it doesn't And the chassis has moulded in everything - really a kitted promo If you dont mind building slab style though it comes up OK. Dont know the differences between Cobra and Talledega though. No the Monogram unit but anything would be better than what AMT offered

I am back on this. I have been posting updates in the 32 Sedan Build thread so I will close this one off Thanks Bill

Yup - suicide front end - best left for T bucket IMO I had missed this - you a doing a fine job Greg. I like the strakes on the roof and the front end treatment. Lots of engineering going down . And the GMC engine - just a bit different to the belly button SBC and flat motors and looking kool too

This is looking good.

Worked on the RH side headers. Different challenges such as starter motor and engine mounts dictated that the dumps would be at the front so the headers are not symmetrical. Got some collectors made up from heat shrink shrunk over a former. Collectors being made up RH side header with super tight clearances. I had to notch the motor mount and relieve guard a little On a roll so I made up the front pipes from 2mm solder. I had prepped the kit mufflers by drilling out the inlet and outlets to 2mm after cleaning up. I am liking using solder for exhausts as the dimensions are consistent, round and easy to bend. Time for a mock up check the engineering. Thanks for looking

As per my last post I need to get some things sorted before I can move onto paint as is typical for a 32 the chassis is the same colour as the body so I want to paint it all in one go. The main thing is the headers and exhaust system I am on about my fourth attempt at getting headers made up for the modular motor. I got hold of some 1.7mm solder for the primaries and spent a couple of tries to get all the bends to line up. I thought I had it made but I did not have enough return to mount up the collectors AND they fouled the chassis and the guards where they sit on the chassis so I had to make some clearance, and then I found the motor was not seating down onto mounts. I looked for some 1.6mm solder but lucked out so tried some 1.6mm brass wire but that was just way to stiff to get the tight radius bends I am after. I located some 1.6mm solder and had another go - just clears on the LH side so now time to move onto the RH Attempt #2 - 1.7mm solder - looks good but fouls chassis and guards. The long tubes are from attempt #1 but the collector fouled the chassis x-member rails so went to downward facing dumps Attempt #3 - 1.6mm brass Attempt #4 - 1.6mm solder - Yahoo!! Just clears all on the LH side at least - just need to make up new 4-1 collectors from heat shrink. I have made up the former to do this And all the left over bits so far - still have the RH side to go yet It would be a real battle in the 1:1 world to do this engine swap I reckon Thanks for looking

The chassis in the AMT 23T series - chopped coupe, fruit wagon, roadster - has a better chassis for this build than the Lil' John T series IMO The AMT chopped coupe has the bonus of a body ready to use and I have seen them on shelves recently - along with just about anything AMT has made

I have used a DSLR in the past. Great pix with lots of opportunities to crop and set up the pix in the camera. The downside is the size of the file is usually way too big to post on a forum such as this. You have to re-save the file with a lower resolution. I now use my iPhone for posting here and elsewhere online. I still use the DSLR to take the glamour shots as this what they are best for. As for cost - most of us now have reasonable cell phones and they do a capable job taking pix suitable for posting so the added expense of a an additional digital camera may not be justifiable to most of us As an aside went did an overseas trip recently and I took along my DSLR and looked well and truly out of place as most people use their phones for holiday snaps these days One thing that is common for all types camera be it DSLR or phone is to spend that extra second or so to check that what you have is in focus and presented well to convey your intention

Or these aftermarket oldies that I am using on my 68 Charger build

He is a very talented builder and kudos to him for sharing it with us

I think the AMT 37 Chev Salt Shaker has Cragars. Not sure about the tyres you are wanting - aftermarket resin or 3D prints would be best

This is a cool subject and I will be following. Only one rule - all parts must come from your parts bins I have built one model from my parts stash based mostly around left over parts from an AMT 29 Mod Rod/Ala Kart and AMT 23 T parts. Built Rat Rod style with flat paint which was Tamiya primer with some green added to get the colour I was after which also gave it a little shine. Inspiration came from a magazine feature at the time of build (2008). The cool beer keg was from an old AMT Surf-n-Go (Surf Wagon in the US) like I recently completed but I could not find an extra keg as the kit one was missing - but not this one, this was from the parts box.