bill-e-boy

Catch up time. I have been away for a couple of weeks looking after the grandkids for the last two weeks of their summer holidays. Got some clear on the body and other body parts and they are curing ready for colour sanding and polishing. This is straight off the gun Masked up the fuel tank ready for paint. and painted I have also been working on interior detail and assembling the engine. More to come, thanks for looking

Aaron - what an in depth reply. You cover just about everything there is to know about the purchase of a model makers lathe. Be aware though - the lathe is the first step. You may find yourself spending as much and probably more than the purchase price on tooling and accessories. Add to that materials for the machining operations. If you buy second hand you and if you are astute you can often get some of these thrown in. Only issue with second hand market is that some of these machines can be abused or just plain worn out. If used only for hobby work the wear will be less but condition may be an issue. I have a Unimat 3 with a milling head that I rarely use. I have a larger mill that I prefer to use even with small stuff. I bought this second hand and I was fortunate that it came with a lot of Unimat and other accessories. There a number of guys on the forum using lathes and mills for scratch building stuff for their models to be more realistic. And it is fun

What a fantastic build - very hard to get bare metal to look real and you have done it.

This is looking great. I will be following. I built one years ago just after the street rod version was released and was a little disappointed with the final look. Ok it was pre bare metal foil days so the front trim was brush painted. Must revisit the kit one day and use this thread as a basis for mods to make it more realistic. I have a couple in the stash. As another point I have an original but sad looking 1:1 39 4dr Dodge sedan that is good reference for the mechanicals as they were the same - although the Plymouths usually had the smaller motor

Kool project - coming along nicely

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Getting paint on it. Tamiya LP47 Pearl Blue

The frame is easiest to chop by cutting out the bottom rail with a knife and cutting the side rails to fit the opening. This is easier than taking a section out like you do to the top. Then glue it back together. You can save the chrome part by doing this way and just cover the corner with foil if needed. Not sure if you see it in the attached pix as it mostly shows the windsceen ready to be installed. It does show the original chrome

The quietest one

Your build id coming along nicely. I like your use of wire for the dash insert chrome strip

Doug Whyte has a good tutorial on his Model Car Muse Youtube channel

A couple of pix of flathead porn showing plug wiring First up FH from Revell 32 Sedan in a Revell 29 A Roadster = AV8. I have used brass tube for the spark lead support Next is FH from Revell 40 Coupe with scratch built pancake distributor

Saves a lot of work. A good thing about these Monogam 34's is swapping the tops around - full height, chopped or cabrolet But the 3 window coupes are the easiest to chop too if you want a bigger drop

Looking great. The hemi engine takes up a lot of engine bay space for sure. The 32's had a roof insert and you are depicting a coupe with a filled roof. Will you be adding those weld lines in too and maybe a slightly different steel colour as well? The elephant in the room so to say.

Chop it!!!!!

I think dwc43 means "outside wire'' is that used outside the building such as the wire from the street. Inside wire is used to reticulate the phonelines around the house. In NZ the outside wire is usually a bit larger than that used inside and has gunk around it. The inside wire is smaller and solid core. I would think that either choice would be too big. Better use would be for brake and fuel hoses For a good source of spark plug wire go online and look for 30g Kynar wire wrapping wire - this is similar to the stuff sold by the aftermarket suppliers and comes in >10ft rolls that will last a long time and different colours too. RS has it in 50m rolls but there are suppliers who have it in smaller rolls

I made this up years ago from some scrap brass I had and a clothes peg. It has served me well. Also like Steve G I hand hold the engine if I have to, to get the detailing done Also great a display holder for the engine of the kit you are working on as in the pix showing off Dodge hemi and wedge motors

I trust every one had a happy time over the Xmas period. Aand all the best wishes for the New Year. It is high summer at this end of the world so modelling usually slows down a bit. Been a slow journey but I have been working away in the background on small stuff. Got most of the satin black stuff painted I have been working mostly on detail painting and getting foil onto all the small parts The console strip was painted stainless steel as some of my reference picks show that. Some show woodgrain but I went with SS. The foil was appllied one smal piece at a time as I could not get the foil to stretch enough between the two rails. I think I used about 12-14 small pieces to get there When looking at the reference pix I noted that the arm rests have a chrome escutcheon behind the arm rest. This looked like a mission to foil so I cut the arm rests off so I could easily foil the escutcheon And one side foiled Thanks for looking

Cool car

The Moebius 300B is like the real deal. By that I mean the front end used dropped spindles and the rear end used lowering blocks. The 300B in the real world is notably lower than the original base car (Windsor I think) I did a Moebius 300B a couple years ago and dropped the front by cutting off the spindle and raising the up as far as I could. I pinned the spindles for strength The rear I flatted the spring curve a bit and used lowering blocks. I ended up with a fairly low car

I use lacquer thinner to clean brushes too. Used to use turpentine for oil based and water for acrylics but just use lacquer for everything now. swirl round in the top of the jar and clean off with paper towels until clear. Then I dress the brush with my wetted fingers so that they keep their shape. If the brush comes with a plastic cover then I use that to protect the tip. I also store my brushes laying flat in a suitable container. Some of my brushes are well over 20 years old and are still in good shape.

The garage space for my 56 Dodge is shared with my other Sunday ride - a 98 MkIV Supra which replaced the Celica in the last post. I have had this since 2009 and it has only covered 120,000km (75,000m) and is very original except for the wheels The real thing And the model - Tamiya Supra with wheels from an RX7 to match the real wheels and personalised plates Thanks for looking

I had this Toyota Celica between 1997 and 2001 - it had four wheel steering and could corner like a go-kart. A cool car for the day - unfortunately not many around these days Unfortunately I dont have any digital pix of the real car but the model wears my personalised plates and I did my best to find some wheels that matched my car This was replaced by a later model Celica - again with my plates and matching wheels Real car with plates that I had changed to just before I sold it And the model See next post what this was replaced with ___

Still busy hammering away getting parts ready for paint Looks like late autumn - not much left on the trees

My 56 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer - and in 1/25th scale - MCW Resin Replicas kit The colours are the same as I hand mixed them And no it is not stock