bill-e-boy

The other issue as I see the kit grill compared to the 1:1 is the grille surround looks a little heavy. You could thin than down a bit and add some stock to the inner side and open that out like you already have done. The grille opening would also then need filling in to fit the reshaped grille. I must dig one out of the stash and have a look or just rehash the built up And yep there definitely some Fisher-Price elements to the kit such as the already mentioned rear end and also the gearbox leave a lot to be desired. The headers hang a little low too

Amazing

"I also glued a piece of white plastic to the rear corner And sanded it down with a file and sandpapers. Got it pretty good" - I had the same issue with my build - see current thread You are doing an nice job and the paint is looking good

That looks like a nice sunburnt survivor car

This an excellent build of the Plymouth coupe. Have you tried spark plug wire for the welting. It is usually 0.4mm (0.015"). Typically the real thing is about 5mm diameter so 0.5mm would be correct but may still look a little large but 0.4mm plug wire woud be sweet with paint on it.

Absolutely mind blowing

Got the motor done and am working on interior assembly and final paint detail of the chassis Will try for a better photo and post up

Looking good. That Duster engine looks like a good representative of the LA engine. And I like the colour too

Catch up time. I have been away for a couple of weeks looking after the grandkids for the last two weeks of their summer holidays. Got some clear on the body and other body parts and they are curing ready for colour sanding and polishing. This is straight off the gun Masked up the fuel tank ready for paint. and painted I have also been working on interior detail and assembling the engine. More to come, thanks for looking

Aaron - what an in depth reply. You cover just about everything there is to know about the purchase of a model makers lathe. Be aware though - the lathe is the first step. You may find yourself spending as much and probably more than the purchase price on tooling and accessories. Add to that materials for the machining operations. If you buy second hand you and if you are astute you can often get some of these thrown in. Only issue with second hand market is that some of these machines can be abused or just plain worn out. If used only for hobby work the wear will be less but condition may be an issue. I have a Unimat 3 with a milling head that I rarely use. I have a larger mill that I prefer to use even with small stuff. I bought this second hand and I was fortunate that it came with a lot of Unimat and other accessories. There a number of guys on the forum using lathes and mills for scratch building stuff for their models to be more realistic. And it is fun

What a fantastic build - very hard to get bare metal to look real and you have done it.

This is looking great. I will be following. I built one years ago just after the street rod version was released and was a little disappointed with the final look. Ok it was pre bare metal foil days so the front trim was brush painted. Must revisit the kit one day and use this thread as a basis for mods to make it more realistic. I have a couple in the stash. As another point I have an original but sad looking 1:1 39 4dr Dodge sedan that is good reference for the mechanicals as they were the same - although the Plymouths usually had the smaller motor

Kool project - coming along nicely

Oops had problems loading file

Getting paint on it. Tamiya LP47 Pearl Blue

The frame is easiest to chop by cutting out the bottom rail with a knife and cutting the side rails to fit the opening. This is easier than taking a section out like you do to the top. Then glue it back together. You can save the chrome part by doing this way and just cover the corner with foil if needed. Not sure if you see it in the attached pix as it mostly shows the windsceen ready to be installed. It does show the original chrome

The quietest one

Your build id coming along nicely. I like your use of wire for the dash insert chrome strip

Doug Whyte has a good tutorial on his Model Car Muse Youtube channel

A couple of pix of flathead porn showing plug wiring First up FH from Revell 32 Sedan in a Revell 29 A Roadster = AV8. I have used brass tube for the spark lead support Next is FH from Revell 40 Coupe with scratch built pancake distributor

Saves a lot of work. A good thing about these Monogam 34's is swapping the tops around - full height, chopped or cabrolet But the 3 window coupes are the easiest to chop too if you want a bigger drop

Looking great. The hemi engine takes up a lot of engine bay space for sure. The 32's had a roof insert and you are depicting a coupe with a filled roof. Will you be adding those weld lines in too and maybe a slightly different steel colour as well? The elephant in the room so to say.

Chop it!!!!!

I think dwc43 means "outside wire'' is that used outside the building such as the wire from the street. Inside wire is used to reticulate the phonelines around the house. In NZ the outside wire is usually a bit larger than that used inside and has gunk around it. The inside wire is smaller and solid core. I would think that either choice would be too big. Better use would be for brake and fuel hoses For a good source of spark plug wire go online and look for 30g Kynar wire wrapping wire - this is similar to the stuff sold by the aftermarket suppliers and comes in >10ft rolls that will last a long time and different colours too. RS has it in 50m rolls but there are suppliers who have it in smaller rolls

I made this up years ago from some scrap brass I had and a clothes peg. It has served me well. Also like Steve G I hand hold the engine if I have to, to get the detailing done Also great a display holder for the engine of the kit you are working on as in the pix showing off Dodge hemi and wedge motors