bill-e-boy

Got the body cleared and polished And the bare metal foil done and engine bay completed Next up is final assembly. I had a few issues as I expected there would be with an old kit such as this. The windscreen needed to be shortened about 4mm to fit, the chrome front and rear sheet metal fitment is a bit vague too But here it is all done Get some nice pix and then off to under glass Thanks for looking

An excellent job Roger. I like how the sweep of the headers matches the sweep of the cowl. Your eyes are just drawn to this feature. Top chop is spot on.

What a great bunch of Mopars - but then I am partial being a Mopar owner of long standing

Tip 1 should be adequate to spray large ares, such as a car's body. If this does not deliver sufficient paint, go up to Tip 3. Tip 5 would be overkill. LOL - Yup I found tip 3 too big for bodies

I found the 0.5 nozzle on my Paasche H put too much paint on. Have changed it to 0.3 nozzle but tried it since It is depenedant on paint thickness too - I tend to thin most of my paints at 1:1.5~2 (paint thinner ratio) and build up paint thickness with mist coats with a last wet coat

I got some a while back and broke a couple just opening the container Also got some 50x sets for back up These work a treat in my Unimat 3 mini lathe where normal small drill bits don't

I requested a replacement part #50 and got the clear parts tree instead. I had to wait about 3 months for mine to arrive Time request again

"I managed to get the two 4bbls under the hood." I was just following the instructions - which were bit vague. Anyway I ended up with something a bit different from stock While paint setting up I assembled the interior - nothing fancy as this is supposed to be a quick build And I installed the engine and exhausts and got it up on its wheels. The wheels took two attempts to get it right. The wheel base is a bit off and I moved the rear axle attachment point up a bit. I also moved the connection holes up as I want it slammed to the ground as much as I can Thanks for looking

The engine paint job looks nice This is a good kit. I built one years ago and seem to remember it gets a little tricky around final assembly time

Couldn't resist - started out life a a partly assembled glue bomb before I dealt to it

To help with filter life I stretch a double layer of those horrible cotton wipe down cloths that come on a roll. When it gets a bit grungy and looking like being blocked just replace it. You will get a lot longer life out of your filter. Also rattle cans clog the filters faster than airbrushing as there is a lot of paint coming out of rattle cans

Been slowly working on this but life has a habit of slowing things down Got the first part of the pant on - Tamiya Light Gunmetal lacquer Next step is to mask up for second colour. The mask is on both sides of the hood and runs into the engine bay. I used Tamiya 3mm fine line tape for the primary separation line to get a sharp edge and Tamiya masking tape for the fill in And after painting with Tamiya Gun Metal lacquer I am quite happy with the result - now to ready it for clear Thanks for looking

Looks good Bob. Your booth is a smidgeon wider than the one I made up a little while ago. The secret to keeping BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of the paint is to move the painted items to a covered container to cure the paint. I use an insulated metal box with a light bulb on a dimmer but a dehydrator is supposedly good too. The deal is to move the painted object straight from the booth to the curing chamber to minimise any dust settling onto the wet paint. I also made a front cover to go over the open side of the booth to minimise dust and BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH getting into the booth. My workshop is general purpose with work stuff happening (self employed industrial electrician), metal working and worst of all woodworking - I try try to do the dustiest stuff outside I see you have a Paasche H air brush - good choice. I have one of these amongst the others I have collected over the years and my general go to is a Badger 200 that I picked up about 20yrs ago Pix of my set up below shows booth on top with the hot box curing chamber below

Kool AV8 Koop - Nice build I wonder if Revel will offer either the coupe or roadster with a flatty I built a roadster flatty a couple of years back with a motor from the 32 Tudor

It most certainly was one of the most influential rods of the day too. It has influenced me with the choice of wheels for my own car

I seem to remember reading that it was used as a test bed for one of the hot rod magazines so was always changing especially mechanical wise. The paint job was a about the only thing that did not change.

You have nailed it - nice and simple. Couldn't be simpler than an A-Bone coupe with a mouse providing the go.

Nice build of a nice kit and lovely in white

This is looking cool

Paul - paint looking fabulous. The wood beds a knock out not only once but twice Tim S - Coming along nicely. I like the look of your laced spoke wheels Bill-e-boy

What a kool kustom, Great paint job and super clean build Congratulate yourself

Phil a good effort. I have looked at modelling this in the past and have been intimidated by the flames and the pin striping but you have nailed it - kool. I seem to remember a pix with it pulling a drag chute - must look it out.

Excellent, great model. But then I am biased as MoparMan

Get good lighting level to start with. LED strip lights are ideal - either 4' or 5'. To get the best lighting use 6000K color or higher. The 4000K lights are too red like incandescent lights and are poor for color matching. The strip lights can be used with the light track as there are usually connector blocks available. Talk with you electrician who should be able to help. I use 3x 4' single strip lights in my office which is about 12' wide and fairly narrow. I do not use this for modelling at this stage but I may do in the future so I set it up accordingly. I am a self employed electrician and I need an office for my paperwork As well as the above use task lighting with positional lighting as suggested above. I use a two in my modelling room, one with magnifying glass that is LED and the other a large unit with a 36W LED. My eyes aren't what they used to be

Congrats Alan on a fantastic build Kit - Pete is making a good job on the paint Mine is waiting for the clear to harden and me to get back on track A quick mock up Alan - I agree with you on the influence that @tim boyd has had on kit-rodding over the years. I think we have all improved our game with his fine builds and methods of construction. A great mentor to have in our corner Cheers Bill