
bill-e-boy
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Everything posted by bill-e-boy
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I measured the T frame and wheel base is 99mm. I them mocked up the A guards with the Lil John chassis and got a measurement of 106mm so I will need to stretch the frame by that amount. I ended up by gluing on a piece of 3x1.5mm rectangular on which I had picked up the rear cross member and shock mounting tabs. I then relocated the mounting points for the rear end radius rods. The rear tubular cross member will be replaced by some 1.6mm round stock as it mounts the disc brake calipers This should put the tires into the rear fenders better. I will need to work on the splash apron as the front wheels need to be moved forward by about 1mm Pix shows modified frame in front of assemble Lil John chassis
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Thanks Alan The rear fenders are huge and need fairly large diameter tyres to fill them. On the Lil John T he must have fabbed new rear fenders to match the tyres he used. They have a smaller radius than the originals I think I have seen a pix of the frame stretch somewhere so will look at that but the rear does need to be lifted up so may end up doing something along the lines of what @tim boyddid. May a combo of the two May be a few days as a "real" project in the "real" workshop has priority on my free time at the moment
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‘32 Deuce chop question
bill-e-boy replied to NOBLNG's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I think it depends on the amount of chop My thoughts are: 2" and you can slant the A pillars back 3" either will work but slanting the pillars may end up being too much 4" you will need to stretch the roof between to A and B pillars -
I bet the corner handling with those vinyl tires would be a lot of fun A nice build too
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Here is a shot of the firewall. The brake booster is a Chebby item and the chassis at this point has been modified for the Jag XJ6 front end And a shot of drivers side chassis with motor in place - not original 315 Poly but an LA360
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For my rendition I am looking at the Lil John Buttera T chassis. I pulled the chassis from under the 34 I built years ago - what a struggle. I seem to remember that it was a mission to get the body mated to the chassis when I built it originally. The idea is to eyeball the chassis under the guards to see what is needed. @tim boyddid one yonks ago as posted earlier in this thread The T chassis as removed The front end looks good but will need to be moved forward a little - needs work around the apron - I may take it out altogether. At the rear I have recessed the rear cross member into the A pickup bed rails but it needs more - about 4.5mm more. The wheel base will need to be extended too. This will be the first mod to the donor chassis - not the red one, a virgin one It could do with some taller tyres in the back so will start hunting out some. The 37 Cabrolet are wider but the same height. Any suggestions? The top suspension locator bars on the front end rub against the guards so some relieving will required. The fire wall will need to be recessed a tad to fit the motor in there. I am just glad that I have access to a built up chassis to see what I will need to change to get it together. Saves a truck load of time of change - test fit - change - test fit ...........
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Thanks Zippi Still hammering away at small stuff. Found the front shocks were too long so made up some more from round and tube stock. Ribs are cores from some small electronics type wire I needed a tach to fit to the overhead console. Turned one up out of some ally bar on my lathe. Added a gauge face had printed up for the project and filled the front recess with 5min epoxy
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I wondered how you chopped the A pillar. Looked through the Fotki link - Aha - I like it - I may use this method on my next 32 chop. Easier than stretching the turret and cutting a section from the A pillar and leaning it back
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Cool hot rod. Stance, colour, engine choice spot on
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Hi Alan Cool build of that old kit. Love the front end treatment and interior mods Should drop a 241 hemi from an AlaKart into it. You are way past the original banger modified theme and the 241 would fit in with a junkyard raid engine. You could always pass it off as a 315 as this was the largest of the Dodge hemi's I believe
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This is awesome work
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As an owner of a real deal 56 Dodge CRL coupe you have got the details very accurate. The 55 and 56 chassis were the same but the convertible has an X member for additional strength The front body mount is a U shaped piece welded to the front cross member and does not have a wedge shaped tunnel that carries on to the back of the cross member that is depicted in one of you renderings I have attached an image of that area and of the spring pocket area of the front cross member The front end shown under the Dodge chassis is a Jag XJ6 that I installed in place of the original - a long story that came about but it is on the road now and it is awesome
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What a blast from the past. I built one way back when and it still looks OK. It builds up into a nice model. With the ravages of time I see the screen and motor need to be glued back in
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A cool ride - nice colour too. I too have used the Ala Kart interior in a couple of my Model A builds and they have come out OK. The Ala Kart chrome windshield/dash combo fits too
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Thank Robert Been working on getting it up on wheels Brake lines, backing plates and spring on the rear end first off Next up attach rear radius rods and then move on to the front end. I am happy that it is all going together OK as I did some of the engineering 20 years ago All together ready for the next step - Install the motor - I needed to change the front mounts a little. This is done - just waiting for the paint to dry The wheels are on loose and to check all OK
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Hi Alan Nice conversion of the old Monogram 32. The other projects look interesting to The roadster without the reveal looks good. There were some earlier repro chassis builders did not build in the reveal in their frames so you can get away without the reveal.
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A stunning build You know when you have it when it all looks like it came straight from the (kit) box. Very clean, stance spot on, choice of wheels, engine and interior all work together to give an excellent result. The expression "the sum of the parts is greater than the whole" springs to mind.
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I have been working on getting more coats of green paint on all the parts that require it. The original paint was a bit thin so more green squirted on. Body and chassis clear coated too. It is like going down memory lane using Testors enamels again. Used to be my paint of choice Got more work done on the motor with assembly and detailing almost complete
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Fixed the bad spark plug boot. Have decided to leave red but with a black wash Been working on more scratchbuilt detail items I turned up a beehive coil and made some brake and clutch master cylinders from rod and plastic card. Need to get items to the paint booth but a few more items to get ready first. Wasted an evening looking for a fuel pump and oil breather and was about to scratch one up when I rechecked the pix I have to find that the fuel log is fed by a line that comes up from the chassis - looks like Royce may have used an electric pump next to the fuel tank -DOH!! Next on list is carbs and more engine detail
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I like it
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A nice looking rod Ismo. Particularly like the angle cut on the A pillar as it makes it look longer. I have been following the current 32 Roadster build that Aulis has on the HAMB -very talented builder
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Working on more small stuff and getting paint on them A bunch of parts ready to come out of the hot box And chrome parts that were originally painted with Alclad and now overcoated with Molotow. The pix is a little dark but the finish on the parts is really good Got some time on the motor tonight. Now partly dressed Looks like I may have to redo one red sleeve. They are all yet to be painted black but left it red for the photo - black on black is very hard to photo A lot of parts have been or are about to be painted. The paint is Testors Jade Green in the little square jars - this was the original paint colour and I luckily found 3 jars in my stash. It is quite thick and needs to be thinned about 200% so goes a long way The next on the list is to paint the body again as there are a few areas that have not been covered properly More to come
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A modeler friend who had a Unimat 3 replaced his with something similar a while back. Said it is a lot better as it has a lot more features like the ability to screw cut and has a proper chuck. He does serious modelling like scratch building a 1/32 of a Caterpillar D8 dozer and lots of steam stuff.
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Custom wheel hoops made on Taig mini-lathe
bill-e-boy replied to Bills72sj's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Cool project and an excellent result I have a Unimat 3 which is about the same size and it certainly has added another dimension to my modelling. It has a drill/milling attachment that I have used on occasion as well