bill-e-boy

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Thanks MRM - you are a champion. I will look over the post as it looks like it covers all of the info I need I want the Vickie frame as this is most probably the best 32 frame around. I will look at the 29 hiboy frame but will most probably scratch the narrowed section as I want all of the 29 Hiboy frames that I have for future builds. And the kits cost an arm and a left testicle here in NZ so I don't go robbing too many kits as a rule. May look at the 29 channeled frame as these end up in the parts bin. Cheers Bill

Thanks Tim. I know I did a lot of research in the hot rod mags I had available to me at the time. Kugel was just starting out and was using up a lot of Jag stuff with fabricated arms and stuff and I would say that this was the biggest influence. Mock up time to check major fitment Looking at the rear 3/4 view the tire stick out too far. Might have been OK in 70's but not these days. I checked the Lil John rear end and it is a lot narrower than the Vickie rear end. I am liking the look of the modern big tires. For a comparison I will mock up the sedan wheel and tire set next to see how that looks but if I stay with the Vickie set I will need to narrow and tub the rear end. Thanks for looking

Got the floorboard done. Follows shape of Vickie unit Time for a mock up with body and fenders and floorboard and Sedan interior The rear shot is a bit hazy sorry. Looks like a bit of work needed to get rid of the ugly I intend to widen the fenders and maybe make up a rolled pan for back of the body Thanks for looking

It's the same when we buy from US. Shipping often costs more than the purchase. And some suppliers do not ship out of the US at all.

Is the motor one piece - be a devil to detail if it is

Trying to figure out what the pickup is. I know what it isn't - 32/34 Ford. Maybe a cut down 32 Chebby A nice looking casting to start a cool project - I will be following

The Revell 27T Touring is the same chassis as found in the Lil John 26 Tudor and panel delivery and the dire 34 Coupe and is one of the best independent chassis about IMO too. I used the chassis under my 29 Pickup in the Tim Boyd tribute build which was stretched to suit the longer wheel base. Thanks MRM for jogging my memory as I may just have one floating about squirrelled away for such a project. It would be perfect for this build as I am not happy with the rear end from the Vickie. From memory the Buttera 26T front and rear were based on the XKE configuration but he milled his own components from ally. Buttera chassis shot from Tim Boyd tribute build I have been working on the floorboards to cover up the hideous looking under side of the Tudor interior. I made up the main part from some 0.75mm card stock that I bent to conform to the Vickie chassis using the Vickie unit as a template I have also started work on the body - using Tamiya UV cure filler. We will see if it stands up as a couple of mates have been using it and they say it is good Thanks for looking

Looking good. The wire wheels definitely put it into the 70's. What colour are you looking at, it kind of looks good in the (baby poop) yellow and tan

I am liking the subject and will follow along with your build up. A couple of the guys in the club have built ICM kits and speak highly of them.

I agree with Ulf. Prep, prep and a bit more prep before paint. It why it takes me so long to build kits

Mine too. I have been looking at an IRS and have my eye on one in Cults3d which is quite extreme but is based around the XKE rear. The Vickie front end is very similar to the XKE front too. There are a couple of other kits that have them and I may dig one out from the pile to have a look see. I have been working on the chassis and making a new floorboard to marry up the sedan interior to the Vickie chassis. Nothing to hard and will post pix when I can

I agree, that was my exact thoughts going into this project

Been working on cleaning up the chassis, engine and drive train. I am impressed with the detail of the Vicky - AMT really pulled one out of the hat for this model. No pix for this build sequence sorry Also partially assembled the Vicky chassis to check that the wheelbase is the same for the sedan. I checked it against a Revell roadster that I built a long time ago and it looks to be the same - whew!! And to check that the wheel centers are centered in the guards I took the 32 Sedan out that I built years ago to take a pix of the underside of the car to show off the XKE front and rear ends Thanks for looking

Nice build Tom of an unusual car. I did the 56 Custom Royal Lancer from Mode Car World and it too was a challenge. I built it to replicate the real car I own in similar colours - two tone black over salmon. Cool cars but not as common as belly button Tri Five Chebbies

The Revell has a chromed Winfield ally head and twin carbs and I think exhaust pipes similar to the AMT

I knocked this together a wee while back. It is a Cragar OHV conversion. I milled the rocker cover but a plain one could be easily cobbled together. It is mostly larger sizes of plastic shaped up by hand. The bolt heads are round rod glued into holes drilled into the head. The manifold and tappet cover are from the Revell Model A pickup kit as is the base engine

Been working on the Vickie chassis cleaning it up and filling lots of depressions in the side rails. While the putty hardens I took the axe to the body. A 3 1/2" chop - not too radical Below is the sequence First lay out cut lines with masking tape cut to 3.5mm ensuring that you cut in the straightest sections on the pillars and rear of body. With 3 1/2 chop I am not too worried about the rear window - it will be tall enough. Note the slight downward slope at the C pillar, this is to get a straight section of the back window and the rear widows Next up I mark the edges of the tape with a pencil or a marking pen to define the cut lines The next step is to remove the tape and cut between the lines. It is easiest to remove the top section first with a sharp razor saw. Mine is fairly new Now we cut off remove the lower sections and check how it looks The A pillar is misaligned as I expected as it slopes back. In this chop as it is not to severe I will lay the A pillar back a bit by making a cut at the top of the door and spreading out the top of the pillar to align with the door gap. I will clean up the A pillar after glue has set. I had to sand down the B pillar cuts a wee bit and I have a small gap in the C pillar that I will fill. The tape keeps it in alignment while the glue set up. The B pillars get glued first and the door gaps are lined up. Next the C pillars are glued taking note that the rear window lines up. Next is the A pillars and then an overall check to make sure it all lines up. If you are careful and take your time with the saw there is very little filling. I will go over the joins with CA when the Tamiya thin glue has dried to strengthen the joins. Thanks for looking

This thread is a great blast from the past - lots of nice rods too

As he said. Cleanliness is next to Godliness with an airbrush. Use lacquer thinners, a small soft brush - about size 10 model brush - and a plastic pipette to flush it out. The pipette is good to flush the paint tube if you have a siphon feed airbrush.

I had that in my mind too. I am preping the chassis at the moment with that and engine clearance to check. The ifs cross member clears the front guards so that is one pinch point ticked off. I did some research years ago and compared the AMT chassis with drawings of the real thing and the profile was very close - just no reveals. I like your method of hogging out the chassis rails and may give it a go one day but most probably not on this build as it will be fully fendered and the reveal is not that obvious

The 68 Charger is waiting for paint to cure and other paint issues to get sorted so I thought I would I would get back to playing with street rods A number of years ago (40+) I did a build up of an AMT 32 Tudor. It was chopped and had a XKE Jag front and rear end fitted with a 428 Cobra/C6 motor and trans. Lots of added details with things like scratch build headers, widened wire wheels etc. The paint was a custom mix Humbrol metallic copper/red enamel with metallic blue chassis and running gear that matched the blue window tint - a thanks to @tim boyd for this tip all those years ago - with a clear coat that was colour sanded and polished - all cutting edge way back then. So the plan is to replicate this model with more modern running gear - the XKE running gear was at the forefront 40+ years ago. Model will be Revell 32 Tudor with the top whacked about 3" and will have full fenders. The chassis and running gear will be from the AMT 32 Phantom Vickie. This will form a "modern" take on this geriatric build To start off I checked that the Amt chassis will fit between the Revell body and guards. Looks OK even without the chassis reveal that the Revell chassis has and the AMT does not. The chassis rails will need to be body colour in this build as the AMT has incorrect separate chassis and fenders. I have started off with chassis prep so more to come Thanks for looking

Has anyone tried putting an AMT 32 Ford Phantom Vickie chassis under a fully fendered Revell 32 Ford Tudor. If they have are there any major stumbling blocks On the surface a quick mate up looks like it may work. The AMT chassis does not have the side reveals that the Revell chassis has. The AMT is a "modern" chassis with a more up to date motor than the Revell kit too. Pix shows the AMT chassis (grey) sandwiched between the Revell guards and body.

Progressing slowly baxkwards on this build. I started to rub out the paint only to discover that were a lot of too deep sanding scratches in the clear coat. So a rub down with 4000g cloth and back to the spray booth. After three coats I let the paint cure in the hot box and waited a few days before the next step - mask off under the hood to paint the sound deadener blanket flat black. All good until I removed the masking tape. What a disaster I will let it sit and cure some more before I attack it with sanding clothes to see if I can rescue it or in the pond it will go. The paint is Tamiya lacquer so should be dry after a week - seriously considering changing paint as it is not the first time I have had issues with Tamiya LP paints not drying properly. The acrylics are slow too. Time to dig something else out of the stash and do something completely different

The builder down here in NZ based his dimensions for his replica on a kit body.