bill-e-boy

Yup - suicide front end - best left for T bucket IMO I had missed this - you a doing a fine job Greg. I like the strakes on the roof and the front end treatment. Lots of engineering going down . And the GMC engine - just a bit different to the belly button SBC and flat motors and looking kool too

This is looking good.

Worked on the RH side headers. Different challenges such as starter motor and engine mounts dictated that the dumps would be at the front so the headers are not symmetrical. Got some collectors made up from heat shrink shrunk over a former. Collectors being made up RH side header with super tight clearances. I had to notch the motor mount and relieve guard a little On a roll so I made up the front pipes from 2mm solder. I had prepped the kit mufflers by drilling out the inlet and outlets to 2mm after cleaning up. I am liking using solder for exhausts as the dimensions are consistent, round and easy to bend. Time for a mock up check the engineering. Thanks for looking

As per my last post I need to get some things sorted before I can move onto paint as is typical for a 32 the chassis is the same colour as the body so I want to paint it all in one go. The main thing is the headers and exhaust system I am on about my fourth attempt at getting headers made up for the modular motor. I got hold of some 1.7mm solder for the primaries and spent a couple of tries to get all the bends to line up. I thought I had it made but I did not have enough return to mount up the collectors AND they fouled the chassis and the guards where they sit on the chassis so I had to make some clearance, and then I found the motor was not seating down onto mounts. I looked for some 1.6mm solder but lucked out so tried some 1.6mm brass wire but that was just way to stiff to get the tight radius bends I am after. I located some 1.6mm solder and had another go - just clears on the LH side so now time to move onto the RH Attempt #2 - 1.7mm solder - looks good but fouls chassis and guards. The long tubes are from attempt #1 but the collector fouled the chassis x-member rails so went to downward facing dumps Attempt #3 - 1.6mm brass Attempt #4 - 1.6mm solder - Yahoo!! Just clears all on the LH side at least - just need to make up new 4-1 collectors from heat shrink. I have made up the former to do this And all the left over bits so far - still have the RH side to go yet It would be a real battle in the 1:1 world to do this engine swap I reckon Thanks for looking

The chassis in the AMT 23T series - chopped coupe, fruit wagon, roadster - has a better chassis for this build than the Lil' John T series IMO The AMT chopped coupe has the bonus of a body ready to use and I have seen them on shelves recently - along with just about anything AMT has made

I have used a DSLR in the past. Great pix with lots of opportunities to crop and set up the pix in the camera. The downside is the size of the file is usually way too big to post on a forum such as this. You have to re-save the file with a lower resolution. I now use my iPhone for posting here and elsewhere online. I still use the DSLR to take the glamour shots as this what they are best for. As for cost - most of us now have reasonable cell phones and they do a capable job taking pix suitable for posting so the added expense of a an additional digital camera may not be justifiable to most of us As an aside went did an overseas trip recently and I took along my DSLR and looked well and truly out of place as most people use their phones for holiday snaps these days One thing that is common for all types camera be it DSLR or phone is to spend that extra second or so to check that what you have is in focus and presented well to convey your intention

Or these aftermarket oldies that I am using on my 68 Charger build

He is a very talented builder and kudos to him for sharing it with us

I think the AMT 37 Chev Salt Shaker has Cragars. Not sure about the tyres you are wanting - aftermarket resin or 3D prints would be best

This is a cool subject and I will be following. Only one rule - all parts must come from your parts bins I have built one model from my parts stash based mostly around left over parts from an AMT 29 Mod Rod/Ala Kart and AMT 23 T parts. Built Rat Rod style with flat paint which was Tamiya primer with some green added to get the colour I was after which also gave it a little shine. Inspiration came from a magazine feature at the time of build (2008). The cool beer keg was from an old AMT Surf-n-Go (Surf Wagon in the US) like I recently completed but I could not find an extra keg as the kit one was missing - but not this one, this was from the parts box.

Thanks for the fine comments guys To answer a couple of queries They are AMT hollow slicks and were quite common in the older issue kits that always seemed to have a pair - or least 3-in-1 kits. If you mean the wheels - they are cool Ansen mags and this is the only kit I have seen them in and they have cool knock off too Sometimes - enamel paints are smelly and the smell lingers for ages but a cool blast from the past. And they don't always work In a lot of ways, it is crude - like the way the body goes together and the frame rails being split. And the mould lines are horrendous. BUT - Cool motor - Cool wheels - Cool chassis - when you take the time to clean it all up - Bonus surfboards - a longboard and a shorty - and looks cool built up IMO

Cool, nice build

An awesome rendition of an iconic rod (and Rodder). Well done

Spent a couple of evenings cleaning up the body. Had to refill the join in the rear guards after I shot it with SMS primer. Not too successful and I am not too happy with the finish so will go back to Tamiya fine primer The body just needed lots of love but it is now ready for another coat of primer along with the chassis and other body components. Next on the list is to finish off the headers before I head to the spray booth Thanks for looking

Get well - look foward to seeing you back

Thanks PappyD340, Phildaupho and Bondo Bill

That is a cool build up of the model and thanks for sharing.

Nice clean build - lovely flat motor there too. Liking it

New Zealand made AMT Surf-n-Go from 1969/70. This kit was originally released as the Horse Hide Hauler in the US and has been re-released as the Surf Wagon but a long time ago. This one made under license by Tonka NZ an I remember building one way back then, I fact it was my first rattle can paint job - very rough by todays standards The kit had been started with the body glued together including the clear roof. I was not about to beak up the body so prepped it for paint - and it needed lots of work too. Paint is vintage Testers French blue. The chassis rails had been assembled and painted that needed a lot of cleanup to get ready for paint. Colour is Testors Met Green from the little square jars. I figure vintage kit why not vintage paint. All of the chassis parts including all of the chrome parts suffered from poor mould alignment and needed a lot of attention to bring up to my standards. Most chrome parts rechromed with Molotow pen. Missing were the rear radius rods but I made a new set (twice) The motor (SBF) was missing so I substituted a SB Ford from a Revel 32 Ford. Luckily the motor bling was present so I was able make use of that - and nice bling it is too. Other than poor registration of all of the body panels I think I got a reasonable result from what I think a poorish kit. Build up here

Been busy getting all of the last things ready for final assembly. I had to remake the rear radius rods but this time I made them from plastic rod. 1mm for bars and 1.6mm for the ends. Nicely chromed with Molotow. I was not happy with the look of the kit headers and found some nice ones in the parts bin but had to shorten the gap between the 2nd and third primaries. Also found the original headers did not align up with the SBF motor I used And the chassis on all four. Heading towards final assembly, waiting for PVA glue to dry on windows Waiting for headers to dry after I had to extend the primary tubes outwards to clear the body. I used SMS chrome with their jet black under the chrome. Have found that this is quite a durable paint finish - maybe not quite as chrome like as Molotow but way more durable More glue wait time - my we are a patient bunch And done Off to under glass Thanks for looking

I finished my FB Theme build for the local group and am back onto the Sedan. Also been busy with travel a holiday and supporting wifey who ended up in hospital for two weeks ten days after we got back from hols. All eats into leisure time. Work too but that is a part time thing these days

Looking good Michael. Am liking the chassis works with pie cuts front and rear along with the added x-member Chop is coming along nicely - just lots of cleanup now😬

Looking good. And a rescue from you earlier issues. I find that yellow is the hardest paint of all colours to paint. First coat over primer OK but next coats are difficult. Just so hard to see what you are doing

H Alan Yup I knew that the Surf Woody is based on the predecessor to the Surf-n-Go - the Horse Hide Hauler. There may be some engine differences as I have some spare parts left over that are not in the instructions. The Surf Woody had dual rear wheels too I believe Typical of AMT to re-release as I am building the kit but rarity is where it is manufactured - and you have one - what a hoot Bill

A few things from the above that I agree with - The issue looks like the tape adhesive burning into the tape not tape residue - And yup - keep it out of a hot environment. Put it in the dehydrator by all means but leave the heat off - Cheap aint always the best - Letting paint cure before masking helps - all about patience - Dont rush it - patience again - And Tamiya masking tape can burn into a paint job This was done recently - Testors enamel thinned with Testors reducer through air brush. Tamiya masking tape - factors that I see that caused issues are fresh paint and heat in my paint curing box (like a dehydrator). I masked the blue to paint the flat black - just a bit hard to see the manky result but it looks like orange peel and the white was where the The whole issue of masking tape affecting paint jobs is debilitating to say the least