bill-e-boy

Chrome plated wire LOL

Bashing away at my build. Details, details and a few more details Added brake lines to the master cylinder. The lines are 32g hobby/bead making wire Motor is now assembled with the headers fitted. Headers painted with SMS stainless steel Prepping front brakes with hoses. Hose is 0.48mm and holes are 0.52m. Wire held in with superglue I had an oops when I went to install the rear coil over assembly and found there was nowhere to mount them to. I had to make a little bracket to mimic where the coil overs mounted on the Li'l John chassis. Installed the new mounts and finished off the rear end assembly. Also got the front end all together as well. The rear wheels halves needed clamping together and are now waiting for glue to dry. Fronts have been assembled Next up is install motor and wheels - whoopee Thanks for looking

Looking good Kit. The fix around the passenger compartment doors has tidied it up heaps

Another of your great left field builds. Great job Claude

I have been chipping away at my sedan. I sprayed the tinted Tamiya primer on the guards and floor boards etc in preparation for a final sand before colour I cleaned up the Lil' John rear end. My version is from a 34 Coupe and had really quite bad flash so all of the chrome had to come off. On Lil'Johns 26 T where the rear end originated from is mostly billet ally so all of the parts were painted in SMS aluminum. The traction bars and tie rods were highlighted with Molotow chrome pen. The front end was stripped and cleaned and painted with SMS cold tone chrome over gloss black. All of the chassis components shown here ready for assembly and some more detailing Detailing the radiator. Main color is SMS aluminum with Tamiya Fine Line Accent flowed in between the fins. A final dry brush with some aluminum (not shown here) to complete. Thanks for looking

Thanks Tim, we have missed you. Hope all is well

Steve, I used to use ones like that too, but wire coat hangers are rather rare around our place. Like everything they have turned into plastic BAH!

A most useful tip. Sweat the small stuff and the big stuff looks after it's self

Glad to share and happy you have solved your dilemma

Oh, I forgot to add - total cost was NZ$3.00 for the piano wire. All else as found in my workshop

My latest shot at making a body holder Materials - - 2mm piano wire - customwood Base - cut to suit - mine was a piece as found - Silicone tube - found and is about 1/4"od I have used piano wire as this is easy to get from a model shop and has a lot of spring, and it is quite hard. Bend up the piano wire - I used a vise and a soft hammer and cut to length. Unbent legs were 130mm and top is 75mm. Return is about 15mm. The ends have been cleaned up to allow ease of changed holes to suit body. The slicone tube is slid over the tube and is cut at 75mm I set out for drill 2mm holes on a 20 and 40mm wide spacing Body holder as made In use holder with a body fitted - in this case a 1/25th 32 coupe. Note 20mm spacing holes are being used And a very, very old and well used holder ready to be chucked out. Was made from coat hanger wire which is too soft IMO. The point contact did not always hold the body steady when in use

Been working on the bodyworks. Cleaning up and getting a coat of primer ready to clean up hopefully for the last of the primer coats. I mixed some red into the Tamiya white primer as the end colour is to be red. Shot some on the chassis and body And then a coat of Tamiya LP-79 flat red as a base coat. I have found Tamiya metallic colours do not cover that well so any help we give them hopefully the better the outcome - anyway looks better than pink and finally some colour Clear to come Thanks for looking

The front track of the AMT 32 Vickie was way to wide and the tire stuck out side of the guards - good for a 70's look but nowadays not so. I removed the boss from the Vickie wheel inners and messed with the disc brake spacing but I could not get enough back space. Then I looked closer at the Vickie wheel inner and it spaces the wheel out by about 2.5mm. That needed to go. I had a quick search through the parts bin but could not find a suitable rear inner or an outer I could modify to suite. The tyres are 17" and the id needed to be 17.3mm and most of my old wheels are in the parts box are 15"so no surprises there. So, I went to my lathe and turned up some wheel inners which is a fairly simple operation. After parting off at the flange end I cleaned that end up and put a small step like real wheels have and then polished them with some aluminum polish. They fit like a dream and really look the part and I now have enough back spacing to get the tires inside the guards and a bonus is a little more drop in the front because the tires aren't hanging up on the guards Nothing can beat the looks better of polished ally than real polished ally Thanks for looking

Looking good Scott

I trust everyone had a pleasant Xmas and New Year Have got back to the Deuce and assembled chassis and body for a mock up to check all is well From the pix it looks like there is a little finessing required around the rear of the body where it meets the guards. The front track is way too wide so I will narrow that down a bit - looks a little bit too 70's for my liking. The stance is good, so I am happy there. I have been working on the body cleaning up all the little gnarly bits from the chop and getting ready for paint Thanks for looking - till next time

Revell 32 sedan I am working on. Copped Revell body with tubbed guards, AMT Vickie chassis narrowed at rear for tubs, Vickie motor and Revell Lil' John rear end

I think the problem is that you opened the jars and let the air in when you put the BB's in. I to have a whole bunch of Testors square jars and the majority are still OK. If the lid is hard to get off chances are the lid will not reseal properly so I never open a jar until it is needed. I use a nut cracker to open tight jar lids

Thanks for the kind words Michael. I kicked my frame rails up so that I could get the Lil John rear end in and have the wheels fill the rear guards. Then came the question of where to put the fuel tank. As usual one modification here then creates a whole bunch of issues there Build time over the next couple of weeks is going to be patchy as it is now the summer silly season down these ways Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to all Cheers Bill-e-Boy

I too am thinking where best to put a filler as I have done away with the original tank. The tank location would be under the rear seat. My thoughts are below the belt line as then the fill pipe would be behind the seat - about a third of the way down. Being a modern take on the build a filler door would be good or one of those flashy filler caps like Kindig does.

I thought was differences it is just how I overcame a problem

You have nice proportions with your chop and lengthened doors. Well done

I use something similar to Ace's set up for working with and taking construction pix. I only have two "Equipoise" swing arm lights but they have higher LED wattage lamps in them. Also use them with a plain backdrop for glamour pix I use an Iphone 12+to take pix and use the zoom function to crop the image to what I want to portray. I would much rather uze the zoom function to crop the image than piss about cropping in Photoshop. The file size from the phone is fine to post here. The file size from a DSLR is too big and hase to be downsized using Photoshop or other photo editing app

I did a hemi engine swap into a Revell 68 Dodge Dart before the Hemi kit was released. I used the motor from a Revell GTX. I could not fit the GTX headers into the dart so used the 383 cast iron manifolds which fitted. The moral of the story - look for both wedge and hemi headers as they seem to cross fit - maybe with small mods The Revell Chargers have them too

The AMT 69 Cobra is dire. Lots of fitment issues with the worst being chassis to body alignment - it doesn't And the chassis has moulded in everything - really a kitted promo If you dont mind building slab style though it comes up OK. Dont know the differences between Cobra and Talledega though. No the Monogram unit but anything would be better than what AMT offered

I am back on this. I have been posting updates in the 32 Sedan Build thread so I will close this one off Thanks Bill