bill-e-boy

Re the break at the rear. I did a 56 Nomad with a different colour scheme than normally seen so I made a small piece if trim with some half round rod for the colour break. I then foiled the trim and it looks like the factory put it there And Yup Bob - white first then mask and paint the darker coluor. I have not seen gold foil in the flesh. Is it anodised ally, if it is it may be a bit stiffer than normal foil. Will wait and watch

Things are moving on here and there are some great builds coming together. Got a bit of bench time over the weekend. Got some primer on and is now curing in the hot box. Had to do some more clean up on the chassis and is now ready for paint. Looks like the body need a truck load of work to do yet before colour For more - have a look at my build thread Cheers for now

Got some work done over the weekend. Made some collectors from heatshrink. I made a former up from 4 pieces 1.7mm solder, machined a cone and a 2mm solder outlet. Some 1/8" heat shrink just fitted over the outside of the primaries with a little pre-stretching and gave it some gentle heat And did some cleanup on the chassis and got some primer on it. All that did was show up some areas that needed more attention. It has now been re-primed and is ready for colour. And while I had the primer out, I shot some at the body and guards etc and now they are curing in my hot box And clearer pix of the motor Thanks for looking

Or too much cam and just doesn't work

I think the wedge for 68 is Turquoise - or at least to the reference in the Q&A section here. The hemi is Orange though. Only if you are building as a factory stock. If the theme is restored/updated the world is your oyster for colour choices I am building the same model so am reasonably fresh from researching all the different colour finishes for all of the various bits and bobs. There are a lot of different colours for factory stock build 440 Wedge

I am like @Speedpro, being a slowish builder. Even my quick builds seem to take months. I have slowed down on the work front and now am semi-retired and hope to have some more time to fill in at the workbench in between the honey-do's Got the motor near done. Scratched the coil/distributors and ignition wiring as I was not ha0ppy with the AMT effort. Also has a 3D printed air cleaner

Cool theme I see you have a few builds under way - a busy guy

There is a good tutorial on the Wingnut Wings web site. WW have shut down but their website is still up and running Wingnut Wings - Hints & Tips

As above - spot repair and reprime and paint area with good coverage and cover the whole model with last coat to keep colour the same. As long as you feather sand in your repairs and follow the same paint sequences as you used on the main part of the body - this being said with paint being applied via air brush in mind and not rattle cans

Good to see this moving again Bil With the glue thing I use Tamiya thin and if it is to be structural, I usually do a back up run with thin CA. Works for me. And yup the standard A-Bone chassis is way too high in the back and needs to come down by any means. Have you got a spare Revell roadster Lo-Boy chassis as this is Z'ed but most probably the same as you have now and it has a flat rear crossmember so you can use a quickie unless you graft in the x-member from the A-Bone I like your wheel and tire choice too

Got the interior and motor done. Lots of issues with the old guage decals but happy with the rest of the interior. Added a few details like the door handles, window toggle switches, glovebox door handle, modified steering column indicator and gear selector stems, spoon accelerator pedal, hand brake lever and the widened wheel tubs on the rear seat. Other wise stock

Still slow going but have a few things sorted Finished the interior. Added some scratch built parts to the rather spartan interior. A spoon accelerator pedal as there was only two foot pedals and the Modular motor is a manual, a couple of toggle switches for the electric windows made from flattened silver plated copper wire and finished off with Molotow, hand brake lever as posted earlier and a billet glovebox knob I turned up on my lathe The steering column as modified earlier was fitted and it really is for an automatic car but as the Modular motor from the AMT Vickie is a manual it will now be 5 on a tree!!!. The work I did widening the tubs on the rear seat turned out OK too. I had a lot of trouble with the guage decals - they must be getting a bit old and fragile as this build is from an original kit And the pix shows the side have sprung at the front - it is now glued back (again) I have done some work on the motor. I was not happy with the supplied AMT Vickie coil and plug wire set as it is very chunky around the coil area. I did some research and downloaded some pix and I ended up making two coil sets Here is my version in the raw And finally, the motor assembled with new plug wires and paint detail My they are ugly pix - I will take some better pix of the motor and post them up Thanks for looking

More like a month grrrh!!!

I am not bagging Tamiya paints as they have some mighty fine colours and products. But they do have some issues but when you know what they are you can work around them

Yup for the main part. The rest with a similar but wider tape. The top of the hood was fresh paint and the under side paint was a bit older and had no problems with the masking tape there I have had issues in the past with foil tape adhesive eating into Tamiya paints as well when using BMF as a paint mask. You just have to be patient and let the paint harden - seems to be OK then

Tamiya also have a retarding thinner and this helps with levelling of the paint finish. But as mentioned above it takes a while for Tamiya paints to harden even after being in a dehydrator. This is week old paint that has been in a dehydrator and then masked for under hood paint. Good thing is Tamiya paint falls off when washed down with Isoprop alcohol

I have found that the Tamiya lacquer clear eats into the colour coats and you can get colour on your sanding pads when final sanding proir to polish. Also found that the Tamiya paint stays soft for a long time - both lacquer and acrylic. If colour sanded to soon you always get sanding scratches when starting with too coarse a grit. Even 2000 is too coarse - better to start with 3600 then move up. The finish will come up but you have to let the paint harden.

Volvo wagon - there was a BTC version a few years ago Pee off the purists and do a modern Ferrari or Lambo There is the Pommie Austin by Revell Fart 500 or original Mini -although both are a bit small Oz Holden - kits are expensive to start with A Jappa van - a number of kits are available A Mazda Rotobater with a blown roto engine And (HA HA) - a front driven Jappa with the slicks on the front and skinnies at the back This is getting silly

Things have been a bit slow as I had to fix up the milling attachment on my Unimat 3 lathe which cut into my bench time. Anyhow I have a few things ready for posting Firewall widening completed and now in primer ready for final sanding/filling. Compared with original. Hopefully I will not have any fit issues with the wide modular motor Top of motor with 3d printed air cleaner fitted. Air cleaner is way better than kit original. Painted semi-gloss black with silver dry brushed on filter ribs. I masked the inlet plenum chamber and sprayed the finned area with SMS chrome I have fitted the door handles shown in the last post Thanks for looking

Well being that it is the Mopar Nats and me being a diehard Mopar fan - anything standout really And have a good time

Make sure you take plenty of pix and post them for us that are a bit too far away to attend

Most of my airbrushes I have a used. Badger 350 which was given too me had issues with the air valve - I fixed that A Badger 200 that is my go-to airbrush came not working but I got it cheap and it had a whole raft of other stuff with it including a fridge compressor - all it needed was a tear down and clean up A couple of primo Paasche units, one of which looked line it had not been used Like @Ace-Garageguy I fix things so buying used generally does not faze me but I do try to be cautious So if the thing looks OK and there are a lot of pix showing the brush to be in clean and good condition and priced right go for it. Just bear in mind that if it is a clunker you may not want to ever go down the airbrush route ever again. As mentioned above buying new has some advantages

And more trim. I used 2mm PVC tape to guide the cutting around the back window and free handed the tight curves. I them moved to the fender trim and I used both 2mm detail tape (PVC) and Tamiya 1mm fine line masking tape. I first tried the 1mm masking tape on the fender trim but was to fine and the knife kept on wanting to wander. I then moved to the 2mm tape but I was concerned that it would not conform to the fender well curves but it was OK, so I did the other three fenders with it.

More work on the little details and changes Made up a hand brake lever to sit between the front seats. A triangle of plasti-card and a bit of wire. Will be painted same as interior with a small dab of black on the lever after it has been cut to length and cleaned up. I mocked up the firewall and the chassis with the motor to check for clearances. It looks like there will be a clash so I am in the process of widening the firewall recess Thanks for looking

All of the above. The problem I have found with leaving paint in the gun is separation if metallic paint is used and congealed bit hanging around the nozzle can find their way into your paint. You don't have to do a full clean out between coats but spraying some thinners through the airbrush and a wipe down of the nozzle with a larger modelling brush with clen thinners is usually enough. By the way you don't need to use Tamiya lacquer thinners with their acrylics as hardware store lacquer thinners is just fine. I believe you cant get lacquer thinners in all states in the US. I have heard from the plane guys that IPA works for Tamiya acrylic and lacquer paints too