CAL

Now if we could only see a piston return spring. And that ###### mysterious blinker fluid reservoir location.

Thanks, it is coming along nicely if I don't say so myself. Sometimes you just never know when you first start a kit, particularly one you haven't built before. Yeah Porsche Carbon Cermic Brakes which is a trade mark.

Okay, it kind of went down like this. I made a couple attempts at scratching them from Evergreen, which probably would have worked eventually. I may do that on the next one that I plan on super detailing. I have devised a way to do realistic projector lights when I was working on Eleanor that I could adapt to this. But I robbed a set of buckets from a Tamiya kit and cast those. I took those castings and reworked them until the fit the Italeri 993 kit. I had to rework the body a little too. But I am getting close to finishing this bad boy up. some denibbing. Final color coat. Clear. Final assembly It is like one of those jigsaw puzzles though. Everything has to go in just the right sequence in just the right way. Not quite your standard build. Lots of places where it could go very bad if you are not careful. There are also a number of places where you have to think ahead. The side skirts and the lower wrap-arounds, which are body colored. The skirt glues the to side of the body and the lower glue to the floor pan. Once it is all together there a seem to deal with, which will basically have to be sanded, filled, painted and cleared with it completely assmembled. There is only LF handed wheels, instead of directionals. And the brakes are awlfully whimpy looking for PCCBs. I will still look good sitting on the shelf though.

It would be fine with Micro Sol red lable.

I will try and dig you up a source that I have had pretty good luck with. They are not perfect, but they are a lot better then a lot of the kit glass. They are crystal clear; however, sometimes there is a tiny bump in them. It's a good enough trade off for me. From a couple feet a way they are unnoticable untill you get right on top of them and in real good light. Yeah, they are not styrene, I forgot now what kind of plasitc they are but they work well and have a protective coating on that you can leave on until you are ready for final assembly. I, too, got some off ebay that were not so good.

Yeah but it's not the same stuff. Sometimes for fine work you need the fine grain of milliput. I have tried those others and I use it for big basic shapes and done the finish work with milliput. It ends up being a finer smoother finish.

Success at last, a couple headlamp buckets. The lenses are not right either.

Looks good. I hear ya on glass. That is typically what bothers me the most. I finally got a Mat Vac U Form and works out great. If you ever get a chance to hop on one do it. You will not regret it.

yeah well that kind it make it tuff in this digital format then. Hey look, I was a long time film guy, I had a BFA in film, I still have a Yasica FX3 SLR, but digital is the way to go for this format.

it's in a blister pak. I don't have the box for milliputt any more, but it a small long skinny box that says milliputt on it.

Nothing fancy here. Testors Pro Red and Milliputt white.

So what's a modeler to do, but figure out a way to make em. and of course they are handed so I have to make two different ones.

Welcome aboard, I have family back in Monongahela Pics, it's pretty easy especailly if you have photobucket account. It's mostly knowing where the files are and click here, click here, click here. No HTML needed

I was a long time nonbeliever in this miracle elixir, but it does have it's applications. Oh, yeah, I spray it. It is a little tricky, but very forgiving. I think it's plenty thin out of the bottle, almost too thin. To get a real nice gloss finish you have to lay it down as heavy as you can. You will get some sags and runs, but most of these will go away when it dries, but you may have to sand a few spots out. If you don't it tends to be awfully orange peely. Again, not something I do in one session, it usually takes about three applications.

I am not sure why that is either, but I have some suspicions. They are certainly the odd duck out. They do get an A+ for designs and styling, at least on some of their cars. Some were horrible, but so were some GMs and Fords. It seems they fall down on the rest of the car. The Viper is a shinning example. Awesome looking car, looks fast, has a V10 for crying out loud, but it is a ill-handling brick to drive and is non-competitive in the classes it could race in. That's why nobody races them any more. Another shinning example is the Dodge Ram, when the new sloped body came out it looked good, had a powerful Cummings, but there were so many problems in those first few years - extreme problems, automatic trans, frame and axle ripping out, spring and alignment - largely because they put a heavy duty diesel in a light duty truck and didn't do anything else to until they had to. They just seemed to have a ton of automatic trans problems across the board. Even their muscle cars had unusual but significant problems. They look good, had power, and had spirit, but the Hemi in particular and the 440 to some extent had main cracking problems. They still would run and usually wouldn't find out until you did a rebuild and had the block cleaned and shot-penned. I threw away a lot of Hemi and 440 blocks. I just didn't come across this with Ford or GM. So you have your hardcore Mopar guys and gals, but anyone one the peripheral would run and hide. They also tended to be much more expensive to restore, race, or keep up than Chevy and Ford. And you have the bailouts of Chrysler by the government and has survived by normal definition several chapter 11s. They just seem to have this dark cloud over them that never seems to go away. It seems every time there is hope it is overshadowed by some self-inflicted doom. Daimler hasn't done them ANY favors. In fact, they are in a real precarious position since AFAIK they have no remaining Americans on the board of directors for Chrysler. See, black cloud. It seems like everything they get into, black cloud. I remember when the Factory Pro Stock Mopar team was on top of the world, until they were found out to be were cheaters - see Darrel Alderman and the NOS scandal. Has the sun ever shinned on MOPAR land? In any even, I tried to like Chrysler, Dodge and the mighty Mopar, really I tried. But they would let me. Furthermore, being in the car business and seeing year after year Chryslers with the most number of common problems, the lowest resale value (it’s terrible and is driven by 2 things reliability and factory incentives, which Chrysler has historically been most aggressive, and radical at), and lends them to being typically the furthest upside down. I wouldn’t even own one I had to pay for. Oh well enough bashing Chrysler.

Yeah, I don't need one that bad either. I agree on the AM comment, too. I guess that decision came down to one of the AM guys who had unlimited access to one. I gave them another more likely profitable kit suggestion, too. They responded with, “We just don’t have access to that.†So I got the access to any one of several, but they just were not interested. Then I got more of the truth out of them, and they were going to do what they wanted and had a personal interest in, and didn’t have much interest in anything else – even if it may have been a money maker. However, in the end it was a number of things outside of kits, modeling and model making that brought them to ruins. And I am not sure even a Cobra Daytona kit would have helped them. No AM2 has abandoned any future car kits because the ones they do have, "Just don't sell." I strongly believe that they shot themselves in both feet on there car kits. 1. Over complicated kit, nice, but hard for the average builder to build. 2. Subject, subject, subject. I think if they had a little stronger subject and a little easier kit to build they would have been a lot further down the road to success. However, like many American business owners, they knew best, they knew what they were doing, and nobody was going to tell the differently. The new AM management isn't any different, and hasn't had any better luck or success. Furthermore, the do a good kit, and I am not sure why they are so afraid of competing head-to-head with Hasegawa, Tamiya, Eduards, Revell, AMT or any of the other companies out there. But they are terrified to release a kit that someone else has released or is releasing, and they been jumped a half a dozen times. At least once after tooling was being cut. They just abort and shelf the project, well they had a lot of those. Strange, very strange stuff happened over there at AM.

I am not sure what the questions is on Future. I'd be worth mail ordering Tamiya spray if you don't have them locally.

Arugg, I just realized this stupid thing hasn't got any headlamp buckets. That bites a rock.

Yup, me too, Tamiya rattle can primer ... ya can't beat it. Not only does it work great, you save yourself from mixing up a batch of primer, shooting, and cleaning your airbrush. In fact, somes I'll even use Tamiya rattle can color. The Cobra below was done with Tamiya rattle can Italian Red, and cleared with Future sprayed through my airbrush (a Badger 150 and 200). I do have an Iwata Eclipes CS but haven't brushed furture through that brush.

Well what I have been using of late is: Tamiya rattle can primer, great stuff. I prime everything with Tamiya primer. You choice of color, I have been using both Testors Enamels and Acrylics. Acrylics dry fasters but don't seem to have the shine as Enamels. However, that doesn't matter much if you clear. In fact I have used a flat base and cleared over that. That helps a lot with enamels slow drying time, especially with gloss colors. I have been just clearing with Future. I have had much better luck and results with Future than with glosscote aka clear lacquer. But have airbrushed just about everything over everything else and have not had any real problems. The above systems seems to work best for me. You may find another that works as well or better for you. I did get a few Testors Lacquers however, the color selection is limited, and I haven't experiemented with them yet. I think the bigger thing is get familar with your airbrush and learn it very very well. There is NO substitute for practice and experience especailly with an airbrush. Get you paints mixed correctly. The tend to be thin and some colors need several coats to cover. Don't try to do it all in one session. A booth helps a lot to cut down on dirts and trash.

Do I really need another 250 kit? A 275 would be nice. A 550 GT/GTS would be nice. A F2008 would be nice. Yeah, I wan't so captured by the new California Spyder. I am more of a coupe guy than a spyder guy.

awe man! Another kit I will have to buy.

I'm just going with the factory Fuchs. It's one of my favorite Porsche colors. It is almost the car I would own, but I would have a "buckskin" interior over black. But here is another reason why I love this company, at least on the 911, they will paint it whatever color you want. :ph34r:

Yeah, it was wacked really hard in the rear and they took some liberties when they rebuilt it. Nevertheless, it IS accurate for that car. However, there is no real way you could put the tank in a Nova restoration backwards. The filler neck is part of the tank, welded on, and there is only one way it can go. If I had to guess, somewhere along the way someone looked at the photo or drawing upside down.