PHPaul

I'd already ordered the kit, figuring there'd be plenty of generally useful stuff anyway. You were right about the 4wd parts, they aren't much but I can work with them. Transfer case isn't bad, front diff is crude but some fiddling will make it acceptable. The springs are a flat-out joke but I can use the ones from the 50 Chevy kit as it has the straight front axle.

I ordered tires and wheels from Scenes Unlimited. I can probably scratch build or kitbash the diffs.

Well, I'm a couple of wheels short compared to most of you guys, but it satisfies my Need for Speed. 2016 Yamaha FJ09 with a few updates. Suspension upgrade and ECU flash plus various cosmetic farkles. I love the look I get when I roll up to gas up or whatever and peel off my helmet and this gray-bearded bald-headed old fart climbs off that bike...

Yup, that's what I'm modeling. I guess I'll grab the kit and see if it's easier to swap chassis or suspension. I want to stay with the stovebolt 6 and relatively narrow tires that would be reasonably correct for the early 50's.

Has anybody built this truck: Deserter ? I'm thinking of grabbing one to pirate the 4 wheel drive parts from - differentials, transfer case, drive shafts and suspension bits. Hoping to use them on the 50 Chevy project. Don't mind modifying things to fit as long as they are reasonably close.

Has anybody built this truck: Deserter ? I'm thinking of grabbing one to pirate the 4 wheel drive parts from - differentials, transfer case, drive shafts and suspension bits. Hoping to use them on the 50 Chevy project. Don't mind modifying things to fit as long as they are reasonably close.

Gathering parts for my NEAPCO/50 Chevy idea. I'm thinking "military surplus" bar-style tires would be appropriate. Anybody got a source for such a thing? Open to suggestions as to size, but thinking 16/17 inch. I've looked on line, but my google-foo is weak.

Somewhat off the wall question: I see a lot of purple marks on the cage build, both on your example and others. What is that? Primer for the glue? Marks for joint location?

Well there. Easy-peasy. Thanks!

Brilliant! And it comes in 1/2 oz brush-on bottles which I assume I can thin and spray with my airbrush. Do you know off-hand how it affects plastic? I've emailed the company with related questions, I'll post the reply here if/when received.

I spent probably 15-20 minutes on Duplicolor's website looking for a way to specify or match a color. If it's there, I couldn't find it.

I've been all over the 'net looking for the correct Forester Green paint for my 1950 Chevy truck project. I have the PPG color code (40519) but can't find a way to cross it to something in a spray bomb, like Duplicolor. What are my options?

Thanks, I'll have a look.

Good idea. I've surfed Ebay for 4x4 kits to pirate stuff from too.

Well, that makes sense. Searching M-H only brought up Fords and Mercurys. Coleman/NAPCO eh? I'll research those leads. Thanks a TON (arrrr...humor!) for the pix Brian. Those are perfect.

I picked up the AMT '50 Chevy 3100 kit today. Dad had a '49 when I was a kid and I remember it very well. I'm in the "decide how to build it" phase. I'm thinking essentially stock in the same Forester Green that Dad's was, but with a few updates that might be seen if I could do a "money is no object" restoration on one today. I looked through the kit contents and the very first thing that hit me was that the tires are...well...awful. Initial thinking is to build it with a M-H 4WD conversion which will give me an excuse to put some better detailed tires and wheels on it. I'll probably have to lift it a tad but I want to keep the stance as near stock as feasible. I'll be scouring the web for pictures of M-H conversions but if anyone here has been there and done that and would be willing to give me some pointers, it would be greatly appreciated. I'm particularly interested in details of the front differential, suspension, steering and transfer case.

Okay, you guys embarrassed me with your neatnik work spaces so I spent the day making storage for my paint and various doo-dads. Just as well, I'm waiting on supplies to build structures for my diorama and watching paint dry on my scratch-built combines, also for the diorama. Considered checking to see if the little 5&10 a couple of villages over is open and grabbing the 51 Chevy pickup kit that's been on his shelf for a while. Haven't built a 1/25th model kit in dog's years. 1984, when I was stationed in Iceland on an unaccompanied tour as best as I can recall.

Very nicely done! I suspect a 1:1 version of that would be more than a little squirrelly with that much weight right over the rear wheels.

Skimmed through those topics and did a little Ewe Toob surfing and came to the conclusion that it's too much time, effort and money for too little reward at my stage of modeling. Kind of figured that from the get-go, but wanted to confirm it. Thanks again.

Thanks. Didn't see them when I searched.

Is it within the intent of this site to discuss 3D printers? If so, which forum would be appropriate? I'm toying with the idea, but not sure I want to take on the learning curve. Also, I suspect the total outlay when you consider the printer, materials, 3D CAD software and all the other little gotcha stuff may be beyond my means.

Houston, we have separation! Worked perfectly, just needed to trim a little "flash" where capillary action pulled the epoxy up some folds in the Saran wrap. A little clear gloss where I sanded some sharp edges and we're good.

Very, very nice! In the right setting, that could be mistaken for the real thing!

1. There's a county drain that runs within 10 feet of the NW corner of my house, so it's not unprecedented. 2. As far as the pour goes, the Saran wrap and dams worked fine. I'll need to give it 24 hours before I try separating the halves, epoxy cures REALLY slow in a 60° basement.

Thanks. Limited application for this diorama, maybe I'll do a junk yard... Thank you.