PHPaul

Gathering parts for my NEAPCO/50 Chevy idea. I'm thinking "military surplus" bar-style tires would be appropriate. Anybody got a source for such a thing? Open to suggestions as to size, but thinking 16/17 inch. I've looked on line, but my google-foo is weak.

Somewhat off the wall question: I see a lot of purple marks on the cage build, both on your example and others. What is that? Primer for the glue? Marks for joint location?

Well there. Easy-peasy. Thanks!

Brilliant! And it comes in 1/2 oz brush-on bottles which I assume I can thin and spray with my airbrush. Do you know off-hand how it affects plastic? I've emailed the company with related questions, I'll post the reply here if/when received.

I spent probably 15-20 minutes on Duplicolor's website looking for a way to specify or match a color. If it's there, I couldn't find it.

I've been all over the 'net looking for the correct Forester Green paint for my 1950 Chevy truck project. I have the PPG color code (40519) but can't find a way to cross it to something in a spray bomb, like Duplicolor. What are my options?

Thanks, I'll have a look.

Good idea. I've surfed Ebay for 4x4 kits to pirate stuff from too.

Well, that makes sense. Searching M-H only brought up Fords and Mercurys. Coleman/NAPCO eh? I'll research those leads. Thanks a TON (arrrr...humor!) for the pix Brian. Those are perfect.

I picked up the AMT '50 Chevy 3100 kit today. Dad had a '49 when I was a kid and I remember it very well. I'm in the "decide how to build it" phase. I'm thinking essentially stock in the same Forester Green that Dad's was, but with a few updates that might be seen if I could do a "money is no object" restoration on one today. I looked through the kit contents and the very first thing that hit me was that the tires are...well...awful. Initial thinking is to build it with a M-H 4WD conversion which will give me an excuse to put some better detailed tires and wheels on it. I'll probably have to lift it a tad but I want to keep the stance as near stock as feasible. I'll be scouring the web for pictures of M-H conversions but if anyone here has been there and done that and would be willing to give me some pointers, it would be greatly appreciated. I'm particularly interested in details of the front differential, suspension, steering and transfer case.

Okay, you guys embarrassed me with your neatnik work spaces so I spent the day making storage for my paint and various doo-dads. Just as well, I'm waiting on supplies to build structures for my diorama and watching paint dry on my scratch-built combines, also for the diorama. Considered checking to see if the little 5&10 a couple of villages over is open and grabbing the 51 Chevy pickup kit that's been on his shelf for a while. Haven't built a 1/25th model kit in dog's years. 1984, when I was stationed in Iceland on an unaccompanied tour as best as I can recall.

Very nicely done! I suspect a 1:1 version of that would be more than a little squirrelly with that much weight right over the rear wheels.

Skimmed through those topics and did a little Ewe Toob surfing and came to the conclusion that it's too much time, effort and money for too little reward at my stage of modeling. Kind of figured that from the get-go, but wanted to confirm it. Thanks again.

Thanks. Didn't see them when I searched.

Is it within the intent of this site to discuss 3D printers? If so, which forum would be appropriate? I'm toying with the idea, but not sure I want to take on the learning curve. Also, I suspect the total outlay when you consider the printer, materials, 3D CAD software and all the other little gotcha stuff may be beyond my means.

Houston, we have separation! Worked perfectly, just needed to trim a little "flash" where capillary action pulled the epoxy up some folds in the Saran wrap. A little clear gloss where I sanded some sharp edges and we're good.

Very, very nice! In the right setting, that could be mistaken for the real thing!

1. There's a county drain that runs within 10 feet of the NW corner of my house, so it's not unprecedented. 2. As far as the pour goes, the Saran wrap and dams worked fine. I'll need to give it 24 hours before I try separating the halves, epoxy cures REALLY slow in a 60° basement.

Thanks. Limited application for this diorama, maybe I'll do a junk yard... Thank you.

In order to facilitate getting it out of my basement if and when that becomes necessary, my diorama is built in two 2x4 foot sections. I didn't plan ahead for growth and now I want/need to pour a stream right at the joint between the two sections, but still be able to separate them. My initial thought is to line the front (finished) half of the stream with Saran wrap, use a little silicone to seal the bottom gap, clamp the two sections together, build dams where needed and pour that way. My thinking is that the Saran wrap will allow the epoxy to conform to the shape of the bank on the finished side and still allow it to release so I can separate the halves. Think that will work? Better ideas?

Thanks, Shambles. Very gratifying, especially given the quality of the competition here! I have a nice magnifying lamp the gets a lot of use, along with tweezers and hemostats. I find my shaky hands at least as bothersome as my tired old eyes. Patience has never been one of my virtues, but this project is giving me lots of practice in faking it.

Thanks! Made the Winter fly by and with the new additon there's room for more ideas.

I hope to do that when it warms up and the trees leaf out. Too dang cold and windy right now.

I too appreciate the technical details of "wrecking" a model. Thanks!

Roughly half of the 2x4 addition is spoken for already...