PHPaul

Okay, you guys embarrassed me with your neatnik work spaces so I spent the day making storage for my paint and various doo-dads. Just as well, I'm waiting on supplies to build structures for my diorama and watching paint dry on my scratch-built combines, also for the diorama. Considered checking to see if the little 5&10 a couple of villages over is open and grabbing the 51 Chevy pickup kit that's been on his shelf for a while. Haven't built a 1/25th model kit in dog's years. 1984, when I was stationed in Iceland on an unaccompanied tour as best as I can recall.

Very nicely done! I suspect a 1:1 version of that would be more than a little squirrelly with that much weight right over the rear wheels.

Skimmed through those topics and did a little Ewe Toob surfing and came to the conclusion that it's too much time, effort and money for too little reward at my stage of modeling. Kind of figured that from the get-go, but wanted to confirm it. Thanks again.

Thanks. Didn't see them when I searched.

Is it within the intent of this site to discuss 3D printers? If so, which forum would be appropriate? I'm toying with the idea, but not sure I want to take on the learning curve. Also, I suspect the total outlay when you consider the printer, materials, 3D CAD software and all the other little gotcha stuff may be beyond my means.

Houston, we have separation! Worked perfectly, just needed to trim a little "flash" where capillary action pulled the epoxy up some folds in the Saran wrap. A little clear gloss where I sanded some sharp edges and we're good.

Very, very nice! In the right setting, that could be mistaken for the real thing!

1. There's a county drain that runs within 10 feet of the NW corner of my house, so it's not unprecedented. 2. As far as the pour goes, the Saran wrap and dams worked fine. I'll need to give it 24 hours before I try separating the halves, epoxy cures REALLY slow in a 60° basement.

Thanks. Limited application for this diorama, maybe I'll do a junk yard... Thank you.

In order to facilitate getting it out of my basement if and when that becomes necessary, my diorama is built in two 2x4 foot sections. I didn't plan ahead for growth and now I want/need to pour a stream right at the joint between the two sections, but still be able to separate them. My initial thought is to line the front (finished) half of the stream with Saran wrap, use a little silicone to seal the bottom gap, clamp the two sections together, build dams where needed and pour that way. My thinking is that the Saran wrap will allow the epoxy to conform to the shape of the bank on the finished side and still allow it to release so I can separate the halves. Think that will work? Better ideas?

Thanks, Shambles. Very gratifying, especially given the quality of the competition here! I have a nice magnifying lamp the gets a lot of use, along with tweezers and hemostats. I find my shaky hands at least as bothersome as my tired old eyes. Patience has never been one of my virtues, but this project is giving me lots of practice in faking it.

Thanks! Made the Winter fly by and with the new additon there's room for more ideas.

I hope to do that when it warms up and the trees leaf out. Too dang cold and windy right now.

I too appreciate the technical details of "wrecking" a model. Thanks!

Roughly half of the 2x4 addition is spoken for already...

Howitzer-sized bullet holes aren't quite as noticeable when installed on the diorama.

I know, right? I started this project as a substitute for rebuilding/restoring a John Deere 420C crawler. I got the dozer torn pretty much completely down and made a list of everything it needed. I totaled up the parts list and fainted dead away. Discretion (and my bank account) dictated that I part it out and run away. I did manage to break even on the deal so it could have been worse. When this idea occurred to me, I said to myself, "Self," I said, "How much can a diorama possibly cost?" And that right there, Boys and Girls, is what ya call yer "Stoopid Question". Cheaper than fixing the dozer? Yeah. So far anyway...

Ran out of room before I ran out of ideas, so I added another 2x4 section. It'll be home to the corn crib I mentioned above and some other buildings I've built or had donated to me.

Ha! There's no school like old school!

20 mike-mike twin Oerlikon mount...

Well the answer is...sorta. I started with this: I initially tried the "Purple Pond" but it didn't touch whatever they used for paint so I went to the old standby brake fluid. Once stripped I went at it with a pair of parallel jaw pliers and a small vise. I was able to do a fair bit of bending, taking it slow and watching carefully for the beginning of cracks. I went a little too far with the driver's door and broke it, but some super glue and baking soda and it looks like I did it on purpose: I used a small drill to make some "bullet holes", super-glued everything together artfully ? and hit it from a distance with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer: This will get posed on my farm diorama with a tree growing up through the frame.

Surfed a little yesterday, didn't really find anything. One guy has pretty decent luck "straightening" bent parts. Nothing extreme, but slow, steady pressure seems to work as long as you don't have to move things too far. I've experimented a little and been able to put noticeable bends in the fenders. If successful in achieving my intended result, I'll post pictures here.

Hmmmm. Should have thought of Ewe Toob. I'll look around. Thanks!

I have a 1/64th cereal box diecast truck that I want to add to a diorama as part of a junk pile. It's a 30's Ford. I'm going to strip it and repaint with a lot of rust but I'd like to add dents and bent-up body work and maybe a few "rust holes". Can diecast be worked that way without breaking pieces off? If so, what's the best way to do it?

The longer I looked at the first version, the more the problems stood out. The metalflake paint was inappropriate for a working truck and (as is often the case) the flakes were way out of scale anyway. Also, there were bodywork problems on the tank, mostly a "glue burn" on the side skirt and I didn't like the domes. So, I built a new body, left off the domes and used thicker material for the skirts. My first attempt at paint was okay-ish until I tried to buff it. Not sure exactly what happened but even using a VERY light touch with a soft, dry cloth it rubbed right through the paint. I used buffable metalizer over a coat of gloss black. Might have been the enamel base coat vs. the acrylic top coat. So, stripped it, re-glazed the seams, wet-sanded and did the gloss black again, this time with a chrome acrylic vs. buffable. Then decals and a coat of acrylic clear gloss. Still can't hold a candle to the paint jobs I see here, but significantly better than the original. And that's my goal: Each build is an improvement in some way over the last one. Edit: Once again, pictures highlight areas that could use improvement. I faired the joint between the skirts and the tank too much. Should have left a shadow line I think.