MarkJ

Super nice build!!

Beautiful build so far!! You are right about making the engine look dull. I'll be sure to try that on my next build. By the way ,I probably missed it, but does that big block engine come in the kit?

I totally agree.The Cot car looks alot more like the actual cars on the road compared to the droop nosed anteaters that have been being used for the last few years. The fact that its harder to drive will also make evident who the best drivers are.

Another great build ,Jerry. You must have the biggest and best collection of Vintage Nascar builds on the planet. Your copy and paste skills are top notch as well. I always enjoy viewing your post's.

Super nice build, Dave!! I actually owned a 1976 Laguna S-3. It had a 350 but had a 2 barrel carb. I ordered it from the factory and after I got it I wished that I had gotten the 400 with the 4 barrel carb.

All I've heard is that the fees Nascar would charge Revell or any of the other model makers would not make it cost effective to produce a model of the COT. Our only hope is that the Resin casters can come up with a body that can be used with the 07 Revell nascar kits with of course some modifications to the chassis to make the body fit over it. "Mikes Decals" makes an 08 Chevy Resin Cot body but so far I haven't seen any finished models using it. http://mysite.verizon.net/vze23f44/mikesdecals/id434.html

Billy, What fun would that be? Your saying I should just throw away the work I've done so far and purchase the resin body that I have heard is not all that accurate itself. I know the B-pillars on the real car are more straight up and down and thicker but that should not be a problem. I have this excellent picture of the Petty Enterprise's 95 Grand Prix that will help me make my one off creation close enough for me. Thanks for the reply.

If any of you have built the Monogram Nascar Kenny Wallace kit you might have noticed that the nose is way too short and the rear bumper area on the real car was more squared off and slab sided at the rear bumper then the model. I'm trying to make my 1995 Ward Burton car look a little more like the real car he drove. Below is what I have so far. I used a scale picture of the 1995 Petty car as a guide. I know the picture is not perfectly square of the Bobby Hamilton car ( I think he drove it that year but not sure?) , but I made allowances for it. Sorry if you already saw this thread in the "on the workbench" section. Nobody shows much interest in Nascar builds there. The 22 car in the 2 photo's below is the car I'm trying to do. Here is the Monogram kit done without nose modifications. Whoever did it, did a very good job.

Mojave,I only used the photo as a rough guide to get the right length on the nose . I know the picture is not perfectly square but I made allowances for that . I have many pictures of the car I am building from many angles that I'm using for reference and I'm pretty happy with the what I've come up with. Believe me the Kenny Wallace kit that is suppose to be the donor kit for a 95 Grand Prix has a nose that is way too short compared to the actual 95 car that was raced in the cup series that year. I beg to differ with you on a COT car. It has a very short nose compared to the car I am modeling and the splitter on a COT car looks nothing like it at all.

I had trouble with the testor decals until I read an article on how to decal. if you place the decal where you want it and slide the paper out from underneath it you wont have any problem with curling on the edges because this way the decal does not move the paper does.

If any of you have built the Monogram Nascar Kenny Wallace kit you might have noticed that the nose is way too short and the rear bumper area on the real car was more squared off and slab side at the rear bumper then the model. I'm trying to make my 1995 Ward Burton car look a little more like the real car he drove. Below is what I have so far. I used a scale picture of the 1995 Petty car as a guide.

Super clean Excellent build, James!!

How long after you get your check back should you recieve your first issue of the magazine? Anybody who gets the magazine out there?

Another Awesome build James!! Your detail work always blows me away!!

Super nice build!!

Thanks guys!! I really appreciate the nice comments.

For 36 years I have worked in the same Chevrolet dealership as a new car technician . It has changed names 4 times and I have seen alot of changes in the cars over the years. I hope I can hang on for another 6 years or so and actually try to retire. Luckily not many kids coming up want to work on cars anymore so I haven't been shoved out the door yet. My favorite all time car that I have worked on was a Z28 Camaro owned by the astronaut Gus Grissom's son. That car was very sweet to say the least and every mechanic in the shop took it out for many test drives so to speak. I can't remember what year model it was but I think it was a 1970 or 1971. Of course the Chevelle SS 454's were a whole lot of fun to work on too.

Thanks guys!!

More pics are in the "Under Glass" section if your interested. Thanks for looking.

I just finished this yesterday. It's a Revell lowrider kit. I added many scratchbuilt parts. I had to make my own decals for the numbers on the doors,roof and trunk. I also made the quarterpanel sponsor decals. The paint is Model Masters Acryl.

Anybody have a link to testors website?

My wife got me a subscription to Model Cars Magazine for Christmas. About how long before I see my first issue? Thanks.

Great news!! A place to post are builds and not get ignored

This is the setup I use. The clamp lights have 100 watt daylight bulbs. the diffusers on the lamps are cut from the bottom of 1 gallon distilled water bottles . I use the manual settings on my digital camera with no flash. the poster board is light blue to keep the white balance on the camera correct. Turn the flash off on your camera . Set the iso to 50,the shutter speed to 1/40, the f stop to 5.6 the light source to tungsten. Use the timer on your camera set to 2 seconds so you dont shake the camera. use your macro setting and measure the distance from the end of the lens to the model and set the macro distance to that number in inches. then just press the shutter button.

This one's going to be great!!