MarkJ

Got the tires finished except for touching up the lug nuts. Got started on the exhaust.

Primed frame.

The thing I dislike most about a Nascar build is if the kit comes with a molded in exhaust system on the frame, it has to be removed. That is the way this old Johan kit came. Below are the steps I took to remove the exhaust. First I got out the sprue cutter. Then I got out the #11 exacto. Then I got out the bigger exacto (don't know the number). The I got out the sanding stick with various sanding belts. Then I glued some styrene on the back of the holes caused by the removal of the mufflers. Then I puttied the voids where the mufflers were. I sanded the putty and primed the frame this afternoon. I will try to get pictures soon of the results.

Here is what the mat looked like.

Actually it was a thick white mat they layed down on the floor but I did not want to go to that much trouble. I'm sure you are right that it was an attempt to cut down on the heat..

Yes, the floor is suppose to be white.

I got the interior finished. Now on to the frame.

I did some more on the interior today.

Drew, I remember seeing this model posted in Scale Auto a while back. Awesome job on it. Sure miss reading your column there.

Gus, I just sat the seat in there for grins. According to my reference pictures the seats in the kit look nothing like the seat in the real car. I might have to scratchbuild a seat and it will have an upper and lower bolster. The cage is scratchbuilt from 3/32 inch evergreen styrene tubing.

The roll cage is finished except for paint and cartograph tape. The tub on this car was much easier than most old 60's kits because I did not have to remove the molded in rear seats that most kits have. I just had to remove the door and quarter panel trim.

Tim, This car represents Foyt's first Nascar win. That's why I wanted to build this model. Thanks for the reply. .

Finally finished the engine.

Had to add a wingnut to the air cleaner and just starting on the headers.

After trying the tubing I decided to go back to the solder.

I have decided to use aluminum tubing to do the headers instead of solder. I used the tubing on my latest build, a 37 ford, and it was much easier to work with than the solder.

The engine is next. The hardest part is the scratchbuilt air cleaner and soon to be headers.

Here are the inkjet decals I came up with. printed on testors paper cleared with testors 1261.

I got the body painted. Now i'm trying to scratchbuild an air cleaner for the hemi

Yes, Dan. He edged out his team mate Bobby Issac for the win that day.

Here is the kit and some of the reference pictures I will use.

Go to Randy Ayers board. It is a great place to get information even if it is not such a great place to post your builds.

Excellent build.

I just had one reference picture to go by so a lot was edjucated guessing.

Just finished this one. Revell kit,Testors paint,homemade decals printed on Testors clear paper. PPP tires. Fred Resin shop wheels. Lots of scratchbuilt items. Thanks for looking.