MarkJ

Another most Excellent build, Anton. you have a knack for making scale builds look exactly like the real car they are representing. And isn't that what it's all about anyway. you have figured it out for sure. Again, Awesome build.

Wow, Anton. I can hardly tell the difference between the real car and your build except for a few spots of different colors here and there and the number of course. Very excellent and clean build. You should definitely be proud about this one for sure.

Wow, Excellent build, Dale. Super clean and everything looks exactly right about it. Thanks for sharing it.

Wow, Gary. Carved from wood. This is truly amazing work. Nobody would know if you did not tell them. I must ask one question though, what about those amazing wheels and tires? How did you create them?

Great weathering on this build. Looks exactly the way it should after that long journey. Thats one thing I have never been good at, so I have stopped trying.

Be watching with great anticipation. That Vallejo air brush paint looks like it goes on very smoothly. Did you have to thin it at all or was it premixed just right for use?

Roll cage looking perfect, Pierre. I bet you're glad you found those excellent ref pictures.

Keep on keeping on, Andrew. This build has so many interesting points of interest. I will kind of be sad when its finished, but so looking forward to the final photos in the under-glass forum.

Thats great news, Helmut. I hope you will post us a link here to direct us there when it happens. Those roundels look perfect and no bleed through of the red through them which can happen sometimes if they are not opaque enough. Yours are perfect.

Thank you, Helmut. I really appreciate your input.

Got the track bar installed without glue so far, as well as the axel assembly itself just to make sure it will install properly. I will glue it in as an assembly after I get it painted and hopefully plumbed. Also want to install some chains on each truck arm that they used to limit travel of the axle.

Got the 2 rear shocks installed and removed the tire locating saddles. I just need to add a track bar, and the rear suspension will be finished, and I can get into the priming process for the chassis and all the parts that go on it. Then I can paint the individual parts and assemble them to the chassis. This model will be poseable with body on or off for the final photos just like a lot of Nascar kits are set up to do, which this is not. I still need to repaint the body because I messed it up from all the handling of it during mockups with the chassis. I guess I should have worn plastic gloves. It's surprising how much damage can be done with uncovered hands. Thats okay because I wasn't really happy with it in certain areas like the roof. Too much grit and some brush marks that I knew I would burn through if I tried to sand them too much.

Thanks, Pierre. I kinda surprised myself on this one. Coming out better than I thought it would on the rear end. finding those tiny ref pictures that I blew up really helped. There is really not a lot of info, especially pictures of IROC cars from under the hood or underneath. I had the same problem when I did this Gen2 Camaro a few years ago.

I can already tell this is going to be an awesome one to follow. You guys make resin look like child's play but for me it's a definite no, no.

Started on the shocks. I was able to figure out a way to put 2 shocks in front of the axle housing instead of 4 behind the axle housing. The real car had them split, 2 to the front and 2 to the rear. Tight fit but it will work.

Got the bushings installed on the truck arms. I just need to drill the holes where the rods go through the bushings to hold the truck arms to the frame so I can remove the tire saddles. Then I just need to add shocks and a track rod and the frame should be basically finished. I will have to pair up the shocks on each side behind the axel on the truck arm because there is no room for a shock in front of the axel. The trouble one runs into when trying to change a stock Camaro unibody construction chassis into a Banjo racing chassis. If I hadn't posted the ref picture of the real chassis, nobody but Ray Evernham would have picked up on it, if he ever even sees this model, which I highly doubt will happen. He actually worked on building the 3rd gen IROC Camaro race cars back in the eighty's as one of his first jobs in big time racing as a mechanic. Did a lot of welding on these babies. Who knew his career would skyrocket after that?

Actually, in Texas it would be yep. Whatever, your work is magnifico.

Just think. He might have this livery next week when he wins his first championship. I knew he was good but final 4 is amazing and he doesn't have to worry about Larson wrecking him. But then again, you never know.

Very nice fine detailing there, Andrew. Definitely worth a three-letter word that starts with a y and ends with a p.

I have never heard of gaming magnets. Can someone post a close-up view of them and what is the original reason for their existence. I've had some hoods in the past that this might have been a fix for.

I am so sorry Helmut. it really appeared as if you had finished and gave no warning that you were not. But I am really glad that this magnificent model will be in the under-glass forum. Again, my sincerest apologies to you. Have a great day.

Once I get the rubber bushings on the front of the truck arms, they won't actually be rubber, I can locate the axle in the right spot and remove the tire saddles. I'm going to try to install them with rods so the axle will be operational on the springs. Plus, it allows me to be able to paint the whole assembly before installing it. The shocks will even be operational. If I decide not to, I can always put a little glue on the bushing rods and shock rods that will hold the assembly in one spot. I bought some jewelry chain to put between the truck arm and the roof of the axle compartment like the picture below shows. The chains limited travel of the axel when the car is jacked off the floor.

I still don't understand the magnet thing but really like that the clamshell is operational.

I still can't get over how beautiful that silver is. Looking forward to under glass.

Wow, Pierre. that looks magnificent. You are right. That final coat really made this build pop, and I see no problem with it at all. Smooth as it can be, and the decals are perfectly placed. Can't wait to see all these parts together and in the under glass forum in your usual final photo shoot production that lends so much interest to the model and what the real car was all about.