MarkJ

The Grand Sports had hydraulic jacking systems, but they were behind that plate in the front fender. You could hook up compressed air at a fitting like you see for an air tool . I guess the side pipes would have been crushed if they tried to use a regular floor jack. A shrader valve there makes no sense to me either. I'm thinking that blue Grand Sport pictured above might be a reproduction. There are a few things like the fuel filler that are not like the cars from 57 years ago. But they did an awesome job on it.

Wow, thats a really beautiful build , Mike. Everything looks top notch in your process. Your use of metallizers reall enhanced the over all look of the build.

Mike , This was probably one of the most plain jane looking grand sports to ever race. So no on the stripes. But if I did have to do them, they would have been decals. I'm not really good at masking and painting stripes or even two tone paint jobs for that matter. .

Thanks, Mike. Thats the trouble with amt kits . You usually have to deal with molded in chassis parts that you have to get rid of but you want to keep the basic chassis. There is not much more i can do to the rear suspension except maybe add a leaf spring. I am however going to add a spare tire and rack to hold it, just to finish off the back part of the chassis. I felt I had to make it a tube chassis, just so I could do the exhaust right. I did an amt 63 chevy once , A Junior Johnson Chevy, where I completely re-did the front suspension, but I'm not going to do that on this one. Way too much work.

Thanks , Josh. I have no idea what that thing is or what function it serves. It kinda looks like a periscope but I'm thinking it might be something for cooling something. But I really haven't got a clue .Its facing the wrong way to be a fuel tank vent.

Started polishing the body. Got the hood done and the left side of the roof. Also got some more work done on the chassis.

Yes, Josh. There is going to be a lot of trial and error involved with this new process but I really like the pluses involved with it. Hope it works.

I'm going back to water base paint next build and get this, I'm going to brush paint everything. A guy on another board showed us his brush painting work and told how he did it and it got my interest up enough to try to do it myself. He has a process that eliminates bristle marks. The finish is dull but I've been polishing my last few builds anyway and you show how acrylic paint can be glossy if polished. I will no longer have to worry about the weather or go outside to paint. I can paint in exactly the same place I build because of the non toxic qualities of the paint. And there wont be any exhaust hood necessary. Hoping I can get the same results he gets and you of course on the polishing side. I will be using Createx and Vallejo paints .

Thanks, Daniel. If the stuff I get from micro mark doesnt work, I will check into it.

Oh yeah, The polishing did the trick. Bringing out a deep metallic mirror like finish. I'm definitely going to try the Createx.

Thanks again , Josh. I ordered some same stuff plastic welder and some crystal clear glue for the glass from micro mark. Hopefully have it by the end of the week. The testors liguid glue is just not cutting it. its really no better then tube glue. I guess I will polish the body while I am waiting.

If they are the same scale they should be interchangeble. If one is 1/24 and the other is 1/25 it probably would not work. JMHO

Thanks, Josh . I had to scratch the bracket, the belts, and move the location of the alternator. The stock location for a regular corvette is on the right side of the engine. I also had to make the pulleys wider to accept two belts and actually just make a new pulley for the alternator. I need to do some more sanding on the belts to get rid of some excess styrene. I bought some liquid model cement hoping it was like plastruck plastic welder but it was not. You have to wait overnight before you can sand anything you glue with it. Nobody sells the plastruck around here and micro mark sells their own version of it . I always get everything from them but i want to find out if their version is chemically the same as the orange bottle plastruck. Hobby lobby used to sell it but they have really cut back on what they sell us modelers. It's really kind of sad.

It would be nice to use something like windex to clean my gun rather the the toxic lacquer thinner I have been using.

Thanks for the link , Rob. I made it a favorite.

Starting on the engine . The kit comes with the webers but no side draft manifold for the small block. I'm scratching one so I can use them . Not real accurate but it will work.

I have never tryed createx. What do you use to thin it and also to clean your air brush. Will you have to polish it and what kind of clear do you plan to use and will it have to be polished?

What's with this Revell line of paint I have seen advertised in my last Scale auto I purchased, which I guess was the last ever scale auto magazine? I was at Hobby Lobby yesterday. Had not been there in a year because of Covid. I finally got both of my vaccination injections and waited the 2 weeks. I did not see any Revell paint, but I was glad they still had Evergreen styrene.

Turned out very clean and beautiful. You should be very happy with this build.

Thanks , Josh. I will be painting the model with acylic lacquer so I will have to sand it to polish it as well. and it's not going to be fun. Lots of things like the fuel filler door are impossible to sand because they are too intricate.

Wow, Josh . Now you have some seriously awesome paint work going on. Those roundels came out perfect. Great save on the steering wheel.

Slowly, but surely. I'm getting tired of sanding . I want to get back to building.