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Everything posted by Husky1943
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Welcome back and giddyup!
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Welcome back, John, and glad to hear that you are back in better health! Model away, Sir!
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Welcome aboard and back, Gary! You will learn much from many (I sure have!) Do the '37 Ford Coupe! I love those cars!
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Thanks Bjarne! I like adding the human element to the model (for scale, at least), and also for context.
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I just wanted to show off my '48 with a pretty model helping to accentuate the car! This is after she was primed and ready to actually paint. The toothpick in her head is to hold her while painting (because her feet were too tiny to attach anything to). Next, she is painted mostly - just had to do the rest of the clothing (always painting the way that you would get dressed - flesh first, then pants, shirt, etc.) Now, she is posing with the brand-new Ford. Thoughts and comments are welcome. Hope you like them
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And thanks for the info on the brakes, David! that would make sense that there would be access of some kind.
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Thanks Paul. I need help turning a "bone-up" into a bonus!
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Gareth, I appreciate the words, and no, it was not intentionally. Instead of shooting out the initial crud of the brand-new rattle, I simply shot it directly on the tub and got all the junk with it. Plus, I didn't prime the tub, so it just is what it is.
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What have I learned that I will keep with me forever? Test-fit! I mean, I test fit everything now (even the smallest parts). This what I was doing. I test fit, and then had to go back and scrap the paint for gluing points. Tedious, but necessary. Again, Revell is rockstar when it comes to fit. I then painted in the canvas top and the step rails. I had to handpaint the interior tan, so as not to mess up the paint. Then I polished the entire body as much as possible. Now that I am getting the polishing technique down, I'm not going back to any other way. I might try and incorporate future into the overall finish. Used Elmer's glue to install the windows. I think it is perfect and hides really well. Oh, forgot to mention. I went with the ceramic dipped headers on the engine. I always wanted to install a set, but could never afford them. Then, I got married, had children and grandchildren, and eventually that part of me went away. Well....I finally got my ceramic headers! Thanks for taking a look, and any comments or suggestions are welcome! Stay safe and God watch over Texas and Louisiana with this storm.
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Gareth, Thanks so much! Hope you are doing well.
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Working on the tub. Since I cut the door, I now have to work my way around the interior. I am very fortunate that Revell makes such a quality model with such a great fit. AMT kits are okay, but might not have been so forgiving about the fit. Anyway, it is starting to come together. WARNING: I bought a really nice Rustoleum paint - camo tan rattle can. Wonderful interior color. Here is the problem: I didn't spray a bit of the paint first, to expel the dusty paint out of the sprayer first OR spray something first to see how the finish was. Anyway, I just started spraying, and boom! - junked up the interior with clumpy globs of paint, that I could have avoided by spraying first on something else. Stupid? yes. Learned a lesson? Oh yeah. I could have cleaned it, but decided to just push through it.
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Got the engine installed. It has plug wires, but plumbed no further. Next time, I think that I am going to sketch out the engine hold, and see what and how that I can plumb it even more. I also noticed that I should have fabricated some mounts for the alternator. It is painfully obvious that it is suspended in the air. Again, next time. I really like the way that it came out. I was originally going to paint the engine orange, but went with Ford Blue instead. Glad I did. I think it would have looked nice on a 1:1 car, but not on a model. Further, I am also thinking about stringing brake lines on the next model. I don't know if I want to go to that extreme though on the bottom of the car.
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Of course, the first thing that I did was give all the parts a bath in soapy water. I have learned that the release agent from the casting at the factory is very real and will repel the paint from adhering well. I had primed everything, and painted as much as I could to give it time. I prefer to let the paint dry (degas) over a period of at least two weeks, but preferably near a month. I have been impatient before and tried to handle parts that have only dried for a couple of days, as sure as sunrise, I put massive and disfiguring finger prints in the finish! This particular model has been drying for I think around three weeks by the time I started polishing them.
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Got the underside frame going good. Notice that you can't really even see the springs that I made, but oh well. I really don't care much for the brake master cylinder and where it is mounted. How in the heck a home mechanic could get to it must have been tricky! I should have placed it up on the firewall where they usually go. Maybe next time.
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Update: I'm sort-of going with the little things. I really didn't have to redo these springs, but I just wanted to practice at making them for when they will be visible on a model.
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two questions actually
Husky1943 replied to Husky1943's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Steve, I see that your "stash" is way bigger than mine. Please put me in your will. Bill, I should have stressed the word "stock." I guess I am a little sad, because I grew up with car kits, and they were just (to me) such beautiful cars. So stylish and just elegant. I realize that I can find them on the interwebs, . I just need to look. David, I have to honest - I could not care less about accuracy. Bolt-counting is what drove me out of the 1/35th tank world. Thanks you guys for your time and thoughts, though. One of these days.... -
Revell, AMT, Monogram, Lindberg, Tamiya (yeah, right!?) anybody! May I have these two vehicles (or maybe re-tooled re-issues[?] issued as models, please? I want a 1932 Ford Tudor Sedan (stock version) AND a 1934 Ford Tudor Sedan (2 and 4-door suicide) (stock version) I promise to be a good modeler and buy them frequently. i would also be willing to settle for chevys in those years, and a 1936 Dodge (2 and 4-door models both). All stock and either 1/24th or 1/25th would be great. Other than that, those are all of my questions, Santa.
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Hey Michael, look forward to seeing your progress. Blue models matter!
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Hobby Lobby re-opening
Husky1943 replied to Mike999's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
throw in the 40 percent off coupon and Boom! great deals (if limited selection) -
She's a beauty! great job
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1929 Model A Ford wrecker
Husky1943 replied to mchook's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Mark, I really love the whole thing! It looks REAL! I really like the stuffing coming out of the seat! Outstanding! -
Steve, I would say that you are a showoff, but you have the talent to back it up. Amazing job, friend!
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Fujimi Chaparral 2D
Husky1943 replied to yellowsportwagon's topic in WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers
Very Nice! -
Gerald, Love the latter color choice. Beautiful shade. You know, I like the whitewalls, as well. That look very real, and I remember that whitewalls were still very popular, with white letter tires starting to come into vogue on (regular) cars. It was around that time that white wheels and mudder trucks were becoming more visible. And, of course, disco was starting to die off!
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That is funny.... wait a minute....Yum, that sounds delicious!