tim boyd

Ron....happy to report to you that I refinished the blower belt idler pulley in silver this evening. Took about two minutes and yes, it looks oh so much better. Thanks for keeping on me on this. Best...TIM

Dennis and all reading this thread....I had a moment this evening to match up the Nova SS kit aftermarket exhausts up to the Gasser version exhausts. Dennis called this one exactly right. I failed to notice that these exhausts are molded with an integral H-pipe (crossover). The entire exhaust assembly is one piece, not two as I thought), and thus the forward edges of the exhausts line up inside, instead of outside, the front unibody "subframe" rails. So, there will be a future kit version of this tool with a different set of headers. On a related note, I took a first look inside the final packaging/production release Gasser kit today, and it also has 27 extra, unused parts, including this entire same aftermarket exhaust system. Hope to post a review of that kit's parts here tomorrow. Hope you all had a wonderful Christmas today. Best....TIM

Great progress, guys. So cool to see these projects progress over time! TB

Sure looks like you are right on that. What was I thinking (:))?. Gotta add that fix to the post completion treaks list. And same to you, Ron, and your family; Merry Christmas. TIM

I was thinking that the last part (or most forward section) of the pipes (that mates to the headers) wasn't quite long enough to reach the gasser headers. I'll try to mockup the SS kit aftermarket pipes to the gasser headers/underbody this weekend and I'll report back how close they actually mate up.... Happy Holidays Dennis to you and your family, TIM

Luc, I sure agree, with what we already know is underway and ready to hit the store shelves in '22, along with some additional rumblings some of us are hearing, it certainly is beginning to look that way! Happy Holidays to you and your family....cheers....TIM

Project Completion: While the Prock and Howell replication process sounded easy when I began it 53 years ago this month as a 14-year-old, the truth turned out to be quite something else. Resizing the chassis/interior/suspension to fit underneath the diminutive Willys body nagged the build process all the way to completion. Further, while I did not go back and redo my original work from back in the day, if there was an opportunity to add details that are commensurate with current model car building standards, I made an attempt to do so. I also allowed myself some flexibility in accuracy – such as the kit-based inside the frame headers I used vs. having to scratchbuilt the over-the -frame rails headers of the real car. I am posting just a few of the pictures of the completed project here. If you want to see the entire album of pictures of the finished project, please click here. (Note - just after I completed this photo session, I cleaned up the residual wax on the door edge and door sills!) In a few days I will post in the "under glass" section of this Forum some images of a just-completed meet-up of my 1st version Prock and Howell Gasser replica with Steve Perry's semi-scratchbuilt 2nd version Prock and Howell Gasser replica that was a Model Cars Magazine cover story and among the most consequential model car projects of the first decade of the 21st century.....along with a more complete explanation of why I dug out the 53 year old partially completed bunch of parts and completed it during the latter half of 2021. Thanks again for your interest and encouraging feedback. I hope you enjoy the story of how I completed my scale Prock & Howell Gasser model, and that it may inspire you to dig out one of your own long-delayed model projects and bring it to completion using the resources and techniques now available to us in the modern world of model car building. Good Luck and Best Regards....TIM

Yes, there will undoubtedly be a contemporary street machine or street fighter themed version in this mid-1960's Chevy II kit tool at some point in the future. (I do know that there will also eventually be a third body style at some point (and possibly even more than that?) as Moebius follows their usual production development process of multiple versions of a given kit tool. ) I noticed the same thing as Dennis about the lack of headers to line up with the second exhaust system, which made me wonder if those pipes will line up with the outlets of the over-the-frame headers in the Gasser version of the kit, as illustrated from my earlier buildup of the Gasser kit test shot: This might explain the zig-zag turns in the Nova SS kit aftermarket exhausts as they would need to route around the front subframe/unibody bracing that anchors the the transmission mount to mate up with the Gasser version headers (keep in mind that those header collectors are molded with open ends, which would also mate with the tabs at the front end of the Nova SS kit aftermarket exhausts pictured below....). Since both the Nova SS and the Gasser kits are intended to be for sale at the same time, this possibly means that the Gasser version headers (and also, the wheels and tires from that kit version) could be combined with the "aftermarket "parts in the Nova SS kit for a street fighter themed kit build, before Moebius introduces any other future versions of the kit). Of course, it is also possible that Moebius would tool up a set of more normal street-type aftermarket headers (without the Gasser style over the frame jog of the ones illustrated above....) Will be interesting to see if this Gasser kit headers to street machine exhausts hypothesis actually holds up when the parts come out on the table and start to be lined up... Thanks, Dennis, for the added observations....TIM

Simple explanation on this one, Patrick. Your photographer decided to lay the buckets on top of the sprue frame (rather than beside it) so he could get a bigger, more complete picture of the sprue in the photo... sorry for any confusion! Best....TIM

Mike....they shipped me a completed Gasser kit too....should have a post on that one (not a complete kit review but the changes vs. the previous test shot I built) up in a couple of days. The two kits are in the same overseas shipment and the last time I discussed with Dave M., they were both to go on sale at the same time. Won't be long now....TIM

One of your holiday gifts has arrived a couple of days early (figuratively speaking, of course). At this link I have posted 46 images comprising the first detailed look at the contents of the new Moebius 1964 Chevy Nova SS hardtop kit. There are more than a few surprises here (make sure to read the captions, using the "Roll" feature for all the details). I have been advised that the kit will probably be available for your purchase around early to mid February, 2022, baring any unexpected supply chain/overseas shipping issues. Thanks to Dave Metzner at Moebius Models for giving us the chance for us to see this kit in detail, in advance of its on-sale date. Enjoy!....TIM

Thanks Dave....and with the benefit of your jog to my memory, I think you are right that those windows came from the Henry J kit itself (though it was the same material/color that was in the Thames panel kit). Best....TIM

John....sorry for the delay in responding. Given that the model was built about 53 years ago and my sometimes-questionable memory, pretty sure those windows were cut from the yellow sheet in the Revell Thames kit that was issued about two years prior. Best...TIM l

Bob....that's what I concluded I should have done, too, at least initially. However, other paint issues suggest to me that may not have been the only causal issue. Specifically, when I rubbed out polished the paint, the cloth consistently showed green residue. That should not have happened, as there were two wet coats of AlClad Gloss Clear on top of the Candy Green. It's almost as though the Clear attacked all the underneath coats of paint, kind of turning them into a single big jelly of a mess. Well, that's overstating it, but still I wonder exactly what was going on here. This is the first time I've experienced such an issue in nearly 60 years of building and hundreds of completed models. It was, however, my first experience wth AlClad Candy and Clear paints. Should have images of the finished model in a few days. Thx for the feedback....TIM

The following is really vague, and perhaps even I should not even mention it, but somewhere quite a while back (as in several years ago) when this kit ideas was first under consideration, I seem to recall bits of a conversation that the ramp truck was to be patterned after a specific 1/1 scale prototype, and such prototype did belong to a specific well known drag racing team back in the day.....as to what team that might have been, I'm drawing a blank. TIM

Very nice detective work here, Robert. Although I can't locate my original release Henry J box art right now, my recollection is that it used the same wheels that first appeared in the Revell Anglia kit when that was first released in 1966. I did locate my original issue Anglia box, and on the side panel it calls out "Ansen Apollo" wheels among the kit features. And they do include lug nuts, albeit a little on the shallow side for depth. The Revell wheels do not include the engraving onthe 1/1 scale hub covers, however, just a slightly domed, smooth surface. Here's a photo of those wheels. I always assumed those mags were Revell generics, not a specific 1/1 scale aftermarket offering, in spite of the box art claims. Now, very cool to know what they are, after all. TB

Thanks Tim. Yes, it's a very special feeling when you finish a project you started years, or even decades, ago. Warts and all. Half the battle is learning to accept - and embrace - the flaws of your earlier work and - if that is how you choose to role - not redoing work you've already done because it does not meet current standards of the hobby. At least that is the challenge I have learned - and am still learning - to overcome. Bet many of us would love to see your own 1997 stalled project, too! Cheers....TIM

Overall, painting the model became the biggest challenge. The Candy Yellow/Candy Green/Black paint layout was daunting by itself, and because getting a consistent depth of candy color on a body with as many tucked in areas as this one (e.g., between the front fender and vertical hood sides) requires special procedures when done in 1/25th scale. In the efforts to do so, the color came out considerably darker than the 1/1 scale car I was replicating. The process was further complicated, it turned out, by applying modern era paint products (AlClad II airbrush lacquers) over enamel primer first applied over 50 years ago. I thought the enamel would have hardened enough after that time to support new coats of lacquer, but that apparently was the case. Further, the AlClad Candy and Clearcoats have still not fully hardened 2 and ½ weeks after completion. I’m not all that happy with the resulting paint job, but I eventually decided to go with it to get the model finished, rather than strip the paint and start over. You can read and see all the details below. Check back in a few days and I will show the completed model and provide some final thoughts. Thanks for your continued interest in this build thread. TIM ******** The last major challenge was to replicate the real car’s first version paint scheme. After a base coat of AlClad II Gloss Black was sprayed over the 50+ year old primer, I masked off the black center stripe that runs across the hood/roof/trunk, then airbrushed a basecoat of AlClad II Pale Gold Metallic, achieving the appearance seen here. ***** After then adding several airbrushed coats of AlClad Candy Yellow, I taped what was to become the broader center hood/roof/trunk stripe, and then applied BareMetal Foil, trimmed to shape, to mask the side hood/door/rear fender stripes along with the grille area and spare tire recesses. ***** The AlClad II Candy Green went on much darker than I had planned (and too dark to fully replicate the real car), but the finish quality looked good. After partially removing all the masked areas, the initial result looked good as seen here. (Note that the masking for the side stripes, and a portion of the grille area, had no yet been removed when this image was photographed). ***** Shown here in a mockup of the final appearance, several coats of AlClad II Gloss Clear completed the paint work. But unfortunately, over the next several weeks, either the five-decade old black enamel primer wicked into the new paints, or the Gloss Clear ate into the underlying coats of paint; in either case the result was a somewhat mottled look. This is especially visible in the grille area of this mocked up test assembly. This wicking process may also have caused the top coats to improperly harden. I decided to live with these flaws, and complete the model without redoing the paint. ***** A key visual feature of the real car was the funny car style “flip top” body feature. To quickly replicate this in scale, I cut the body to frame pivot hinges from the interior rear bulkhead pieces found in all of the Polar Lights funny car kits. These hinges were mocked up and then glued to the rear body as seen at the end of the toothpicks in this image of the hinges prior to being painted. ***** Tinted windows (especially the windshield) were verboten in NHRA Gasser classes in the late 1960’s, but since the “F-Troop” gasser was primarily intended for match racing, they added yellow-tinted windows throughout the body. Accordingly, I used a sheet of .005” clear acetate from the R/C Model Airplane section of a local hobby store, cut fit each window opening, and glued in place with Testors Clear Model Cement. ***** The final steps in finishing this 50+ year project involved applying decals from the Slixx second-version Prock and Howell sheet, along with parts box “LSC/Logghe Stamping Company” and “B&M” logos to match the original car. Several gentle polishing applications (since the paint was still not fully hardened), and the model was almost done! Check back in a few days and I'll be showing the completed model and providing a bit of background on why I went ahead and completed the model now, 53 years to the very month of the time that I started it....

Tom....and you know what that means, right? Gonna have to dig that one out and finish it, then display it alongside your Model A stake bed hot rod truck! Cheers....TIM

Interesting war story here... ...when Revell started working on their '32 Tudor kit, their VP of Engineering Roger Harney emailed me and asked if I had the AMT Tudor kit (the one pictured Casey's image at the top, and if so, could they borrow it for help designing their interior which was going to be mostly factory stock? I did, and they could. Got the original kit back months later, and Roger signed the box of one of the first-off-the-line kits and sent it to me as thanks. I too have wondered why the 1975 release was a one and done. I suspect, as Mark suggests, it has to do with the interior tub. Best....TIM

Yes, it definitely should be shiny. And I know that very well. Don't know why it appears black. I have to drag the model out of the case and add some front hubs (thanks David Dale for that reminder); I'll check the idler pulley then and let you know. Thanks for the comment! TIM

I totally agree with the comments about how rough this kit is out of the box. I recall being tremendously disappointed when the kit came out; I was expecting something with the same overall quality and detail of Revell's Anglia and Thames kits that were introduced 2-3 years earlier. Still, it can be made into a decent looking model. This was mine, inspired by some parts swapping as demo'ed in Don Emmon's excellent June 1966 R&C article on the Anglia kit, into a mid-1960's style street rod, powered by the Anglia injected Olds engine... TIM

This update is brief but covers a good deal of progress, with the completion of the chassis/engine/interior portion of the project at hand. (I'll more than makeup with any brevity here when we get into Chapter Four, which covers the replication of the three-color body paint scheme and associated livery.) Thanks for checking out the progress.....TIM *************** In answer to Ron Thorne's question posted above, the blown Chevy Rat Motor was based on the basic engine components included in AMT’s various early 1970’s Chevy funny car kits, including the Camaro “Funny Hugger II” and the various Vega Van kits such as Round 2’s most recent 1976 Vega F/C kit (#AMT1156/12). Beyond the usual paint detailing, I also added spark plug wires and basic fuel pump plumbing. ****** The real car’s gas/water tank was uniquely shaped, complete with visible weld seams and raised beading along the edges. I built a rough facsimile from .120” thick sheet styrene for the main tank, with strips of .015” sheet styrene for the end panels. The tank was later finish painted and mounted atop the front frame crossmember, and the fuel feed and return lines were finished with Detail Master fittings. (Note - Steve Perry at Calnaga Castings offers a replica of the second generation Prock and Howell Gasser tank in his resin parts line. Like the real cars were, it is shaped somewhat differently - not as tall and thicker in depth that the first P&H version shown here.) ***** With the final addition of kit-based exhaust headers (the real car's headers ran outside the frame rails rather than the routing shown here, but I was unable to come up with an accurate kit-based header set to replicate that design), a driveshaft fabricated from styrene tubing and the universal joints from the Polar Lights funny car kits, plus a set of late 1960’s style wheelie bars, I then called the chassis “completed”. Admittedly this looks largely like a run of the mill box stock first generation Logghe funny car chassis. However, the the narrowing of the chassis and suspension assemblies, different engine positioning, interior and roll cage changes, and the unique fuel tank made for a more involved kitbashing exercise. ***************

Casey: Clever,,,,really, really clever. I'm impressed...TB

Hi Alan...glad you enjoyed it. I was as surprised about Moon Wind as you were. I've seen some of Hank's other models at various times over the last 35 years or so, but never Moon Wind. I guess I had concluded that it was lost in Hank's garage fire back in the day. Not only to see it, but to see it in such a pristine condition was a total shock. I gotta say, I was even more impressed with the model in person than it appeared in photographs Ias we all know, the opposite tends to be the most common experience!) What. A. Talent. Last time I talked to Hank was almost two years ago now....hope his is OK. Best....TIM