Pierre Rivard

Thanks Misha for following and commenting on this build. I completed all the body accessories (glass, lighting, door handles etc) so should be shooting the "beauty shots" in the morning for posting the final build. This one is not going on the 64 Sebring grid however, it represents an entry in the Dec 62 Nassau speed week. I have posted 2 builds for Andy's group build...I think he's seen enough of my stuff...lol.

Hi fellows, go for the 1,7 cm diameter which are designed to replicate a 15 inch wheel at 1/24. The Dunlop racing tires are a match to the 17mm wheels. I'll be posting a Ferrari GTO build with these tomorrow morning in the "other racing" category. Should provide with more pictures of these wheels.

Wow, never seen such extreme reaction to stripping of paint. How unfortunate. A lot a work ahead but fortunately you could find new bodies. The road to success is not always a straight line, just like in racing. Best success going forward on this fantastic project.

Weathering the chassis is a nice touch. It's a race car, not a trailer queen. Thanks for sharing progress Misha.

Finally finished the engine compartment. I built an oil vent collector...because I lost the kit part. Interior don as design with only minor changes. After market metal gear shift and made gauge bezels from thin metal wire. I'm pretty happy with the steering wheel wood finish. Aluminium undercoat, thin medium brown coat allowing the silver to show through a bit and finally some Tamiya clear orange.

Almost did but settled on Nassau speed week. Look forward to seeing your build.

Beautiful build of a gorgeous car. I love the classic ivory white paint and the details like panel line accent provide a lot of realism. Not a clear shot of the interior but it appears the instrument panel has received a lot of attention. Beautiful photography further highlighting your excellent dioramas. Your builds are always a joy to see.

Looks very sharp. Your paint finishes in classic Marlboro livery is spectacular and the carbon fiber work is impressive. Beautiful!

That looks very sharp sir. I have one of these, still thinking about what needs to be done to make it right. Looks like you've developed the recipe for it. Congrats!

I do the whole body because I want a smooth even coat. If you have used Future this is similar and perhaps easier to brush on. The key is having a smooth clear under because Quick Shine will amplify surface defects. The only other thing is that the finish will be smooth and even but the gloss will be a bit less than a 2k clear. Not an issue for me because I build 50's and 60's race cars. Here's a worst case, black car. Smooth and glossy but it won't produce the wet look some builders prefer.

Excellent transformation of these wheels. So getting the old airbrush out hey? If you want the best chrome possible you don't have much of a choice. Have you polished the Vallejo gloss varnish? wondering how that went compared to other acrylic clears.

When I have more than a dozen pieces of wire/hoses on my build I get overwhelmed... I don"t know how you can manage so much complexity. This is seriously impressive stuff.

You're right about the gearbox Helmut, the top side is not visible after assembly. I did add some moderate weathering to the metal finished components and also put a touch of aluminium in my black for the frame (about 1 to 5 ratio). It looks better to me like that. Thanks Mark. I am rushing through this one, trying to get it done before Thursday as I'll be out of country for 6 weeks this coming Friday. Not sure I'll make the deadline...

Sooo.....Erock....you telling me I gotta stop building? Cuz I ain't quitting the other thing! ?

Chassis pretty much done. Nothing added, the kit parts are good and fit together very well. The only discovery is the sequence of headers & engine install. Instructions say to install the headers and then engine to chassis. I could not make that work but still had time (glue had not set) to pull them out and reinstall them after the engine was set to the chassis.

Super easy Bob, just apply it with a soft brush, it settles and leaves no brush marks.

Decals on, window trim painted and body sealed with Quick Shine.

Decals over polished clear, then Quick Shine brushed on to seal them.

A successful scale model is one that can achieve the full size look. This is what you have achieved, it's a wonderful replica, full of realism. All the hard work has finally paid off. It deserves a prime spot in your 1/24 shop!

Wonderful wonderful build David. You've demonstrated that great weathering can be done with brushes and sponges. Many ways to do it and your's delivers exceptional results.

Just finished painting my first set for a current 250 gto project. Picture is worth a thousand words.

Looks awesome Paul. Both of them actually!

When I clear over color I usually get traces of "frostiness" thinking it has to do with brushing it on or perhaps some of the color pigments telegraphing through. But it always clears up in the clear polishing process. Keep in mind that my paint process is unusual. Brushed on multiple highly thinned coats of Vallejo color and Tamiya X22 with X20A thinner + Tam retarder for clear. All benign stuff and I never quite understood the process and since it polishes off...no big deal. Same process with this body. After clear I had a bit of frosty showing through. After 24 hours the phenomenon actually expanded evenly everywhere. Waited 2 more days and polished the clear with 4000 and 6000 cloths and then Tamiya fine compound. Looks good with even but not too high gloss as I like it for period race cars. I'll wait a few days to see if it remains like that... Picture 13 on this thread... good or bad?

Chassis 3387 in action...on the streets. https://www.motor1.com/news/495280/ferrari-gto-driven-hard-public/

That middle right is 3387 (the real one, with the bolted spoiler) restored in NART colors. It's a gray-blue type of tone. Hard to reproduce. BTW that's the car Fireball drove to 6th overall at the 62 Le mans 24 hours. Chassis 3223 which I am modeling was supposed to be the same color. No problem Gary...but you owe me one! ? PE was the way to go as replacement for cast wheels but 3D printing opens up new possibilities providing the design and execution are done well. Jason has done a wonderful job with these and the Dunlop tires are icing on the cake.