Dpate

So i use super clean for stripping chrome parts and it works great, but i end up wasting a whole gallon of it after it's used up. So i figured with it have lye in it i would get some lye and try out on some test parts. Basically the lye takes the chrome off in a matter of seconds, but takes even longer to take off the under coating. So after leaving it in the lye for a whole day - the undercoating was gone, but the part is stained a light yellow looking where all the under coating was left at. Looks kind of weird and i wish now i would of took a picture of it. Seems the 100% lye needs something with it to clean along side of it. 1Ib of lye was $6 and gallon of super clean is $9, and i figured the lye would last much longer, but if this issue is what happens I'll stick with super clean.

I'll take the lego set any day of the week over the model kit. That's just me though cause i love LEGO.

I had one of the cheap ones that fold. There okay for light work if all you're gonna spray is water based paint. I built one of these, but it's more expensive route. https://vent-works.com/blogs/the-ventilation-blog/15945741-diy-hobby-spray-booth barely can hear it running compared to the cheap ones that use loud PC fans. Just the exhaust fan will cost more than any cheap foldable paint booth lol.

I use these for CA glue, and i get mine from micro mark 100 for like $12. This is a good find. Like $8 for 500pcs can't hurt to try.

Thanks everyone for your help. I'll give ultimate a try, but from now on instead of using micro mesh system I'll use regular sandpaper. Seems to get the same results from what I've seen.

Yes but maybe i didn't do good enough job. lol Yeah like someone who didn't know what they where doing. It looks like the picture on the turtle wax bottle in the picture but cleaner. I thought meguiar's 2.0 was a rubbing compound? I haven't added any wax yet cause I would like to fix this issue before hand. If I'm not able to fix it i guess i will have to settle with it. Like in the picture below but cleaner and running left to right exactly how i was rubbing the meguiars 2.0. There are zero swirl marks its just light scratches in the clear coat spaced out a tiny bit.

So after letting 2K clear coat fully dry it had decent amount of orange peel. So after using micro mesh 3200-12000 not skipping a single stage i than use Meguiars scratch 2.0, and the gloss is back and looking nice. BUT there was still orange peel in the finish so i went back through the entire process of micro mesh this time 2400-12000 without skipping a step, and followed up with meguiars scratch 2.0. This time the orange peel is completely gone, and looks really good until you hold it at the right angle at a light. You'll see i guess you could call it "superficial" scratches all over the body like exactly how you see on a 1:1 car in the sun. No amount of scratch 2.0 i use will remove the super fine scratches, so I'm thinking i need a different product or I'm screwed? Did i even need to use scratch 2.0 after doing micro mesh? Should i get and try mequiars ultimate compound and polish or just the polish? I'm thinking after micro meshing up too 12K i should of used a polish without cutting properties? Any help would be greatly welcomed.

My issue with it isn't the stand coming apart from the base, but the metal prongs coming out the holes lol. So far i have rubber bands holding them in and seems to work okay.

I have a ton of MM acrylics that i got from hobby lobby when they have the clearance sale. $1 a bottle so i bought a ton of different colors. Thinning i just thin until i can see the paint run down the side of the bottle or mixing cup and can see through it a little bit. If you can see through it when you run it down the side of the jar or cup you thinned too much. Basically how i do Tamiya line of paints.

Thanks everyone. The way the tires are for the lindburg kit they have the perfect circle around the tire for you to actually do a red line. I just don't have the tool and not that good with a brush to even attempt it. Plus the tires are nice, but they aren't that great. Also good to know the tire kit will work with the lindburg kit :). Just looks too good not to use red line tires.

Will these red line tires fit this kit? I've checked the kit out and the tires that come with it do not have the red line.

I don't think you bought Tamiya masking tape. Never known it was brown just yellow.

Gray primer will work, but it will darken the red top coat a bit. If you want it to stay bright red recommend to use white or pink.

My goal with the bronco. Seems the radio is also correct on the kit.

Thank you!

That makes sense. I'll def be keeping all the parts not used. I'm guessing for some parts like the radio facing I'm suppose to trim off the radio part off the plastic dash? Because the radio facing #15 on the PE set wont fit on top or even match what's on the part.

The parts i have circled do not have a number for them there not on the instruction sheet either. Looms for spark plug wires makes sense dunno why i didn't figure that out lol. But parts #28 and stuff are for window linkage the instructions even shows a window linkage setup with the part numbers. I was basically stating how i wouldn't be able to use the parts because the kit doesn't include a window linkage part. Also good to know about the decals, because i was worried for a bit. Thanks everyone for your help

I' am going to be painting the bronco a different color than blue so i have a question about the decals first. As you can see with the long white paint stripe there is blue in between. If the decal is removed will that blue stay or that's just the backing paper showing? Because i would not want that blue on a grabber orange paint job. Next is the detail up kit. The parts i have circled in white i have no idea what there for, because the instruction sheet doesn't say. The window linkage parts #28 etc i won't be able to use because the kit doesn't even have a window linkage part. What bronco kit does? The outer and inner rear view mirror parts are actually bigger than the part that came with the kit. It feels like i paid $18 for some emblems...sigh. This is modelcargarage detail up set and that listed it for recommended revells bronco and baja bronco. How when half of it can't even be used?

Don't know about any service that does chrome plating around my area. My method of de-chroming and re-chroming is as follow. 1. Super clean full strength. Spray bottles are not full strength only gallon version. Super clean will not hurt the plastic and can be reused over and over until used up (Basically not stripping the chrome off that good) 2. Clean parts off with dawn dish soap. Any imperfections fix before next step. 3. There are a few gloss black you can use for the base such as:" Mr.hobby gloss black, Alclad gloss black base, Humbrul gloss black, probably even tamiya LP gloss black. Do not use acrylic version of any gloss black. I use alclad gloss black base and never had any issues. 4. Your favorite chrome. Alclad, spaz stix, etc. You have to mist the stuff on around 10-15 PSI and don't over do it. Over do it and you'll lose the effect. Will take practice........ Once it's dry wipe off the paint dust and buff a little bit to shine. Only chrome i use is alclad and spaz stix. You can also use molotow chrome pens to do parts too or touch ups etc just be mindful of touching it to much cause of drying issues.

I vote for the logging trailer

Dang this is crazy. I've been in the hobby probably for a few months now, and i have like 2 packs of BMF that i haven't even used yet. Reading all this doesn't make me excided at all smh. I guess for chrome trim on side of vehicles it'll have to be careful masking and using your favorite black base & chrome like spaz stix, Alclad, or molotow after body is done and painted.

If you're not able to use clips than you have a few options. You can use blue tack to hold parts and use bamboo sticks for large parts and tooth picks for small parts or cut the bamboo sticks to smaller sizes. Pop sickle sticks work good too along with blue tack or double sided tape. You can even glue the tip of the toothpick or bamboo stick to the part of an area that'll never been seen and it'll hold, and than little twist afterwards and it'll pop loose.

I used Mr.hobby leveling thinner for the tamiya. I think i did about 3-4 coats and i do remember doing a medium wet and heavy wet coat. I had to be careful on the tail gate because the name was starting to get covered up, but it came back after drying in the dehydrator. I also only go about 110F in the dehydrator, and yeah if it wasn't for the trash getting in the paint i probably could get away with just some polish. Weird considering I've shot alclads gloss black base for chroming and I've never had anything get into the gloss lol. The only time i had issues in the dehydrator was when i had a part to high up near the exhaust fan and didn't think it was that high, and probably 20 mins went by and i look up and the axle just slightly bending over. I caught it just in time to bend it back into shape, but it was my own fault almost had a heart attack lol. I have 3 airbrushes but i only use two. GSI Creos Mr.Airbrush Procon boy PS-290 & Iwata eclipse hp-cs. I used the fan cap on the procon to shoot the hood, which probably wasn't a good idea considering I'm still learning it, and it shoots in a wide pattern. But man with the fan cap it lays primer on bodies like no ones business.

Yeah the few parts in the dehydrator for another 3-4 hours today. Checked the hood out and no smell and could touch and rub it without leaving a finger print. I'm guessing it'll be good enough to start trying to fix the issues in the paint next time i get to it. The tamiya X-1 isn't too bad of a gloss after really looking at it again today, and i can see my face pretty clear in it lol. The orange peel isn't as bad as my iphone made it seem too - even though it's there. I was just curious because i didn't think it was 100% safe to use 2000 grit on paint even though it's a very fine grit. I guess the gloss is sorta like a clear coat too? I'm still new too the hobby if you couldn't tell lol. So if after working on the hood would i need to do the bumper front & back too to match the hood? or after all the wet sanding & polsihing is done the hood will remain the same just much better looking? Because the bumpers are basically flawless which surprised me. The kit I'm working on the bumpers are separate and can't be attached till basically end of build even the tail gate so that's why I'm asking. I haven't even laid paint on the body yet until i know i can get these parts right, because i do have a back up kit if all else fails.

I use super clean to dechrome my chrome. Chrome is gone within mins, but sometimes the underlayer is still there. May take a day or more depending on the kit. I bought a small container so i can dechrome whole sprues and $8 jug of super clean lasts a long long time.