Dpate

This is really why i don't deal with aircraft kits also boat kits too. Other than putty's or milliput or some other forms of it most people will take tamiya cement and than squeeze the two halves together and that will ooze out some plastic that helps fill in the gap. You can than scrap off the excess , BUT there is another good alternative too that method even though it's almost the same. You could take and make some sprue goo using the sprue parts from the kit to make the sprue goo the same color. Make it like a medium thickness and use that and once it's dry it'll be easy to sand cause you're left with the plastic itself. P.S those zip ties aren't holding tight enough either. You need clamps like your blue ones or adjustable claps to hold those halves together tight.

Well so far with my kit the side skirts only one fits properly, and the other fits but has a gap. So i'm not going to use them at all. I test fitted the front and rear bumper too, but there kinda iffy. Probably will fit better once i dechrome them and clean them up - than do another test fit. When i first opened the box i knew this was gonna be a iffy kit to begin with lol. I mean there is like 5 ejector pin makes under the hood lol, and the chrome is so thick it took me a few mins to find the windshield wipers lol. There so issues here and there on the chrome too along with flash - so I'm glad i know how and love dechroming and rechroming parts. Yes except i wouldn't use it for Mr.color acrylic line up.

Yeah you should see my stash lol i have a stash that would take some folks years to get. Also yeah the flash is pretty bad on the kit even though i've seen worse. I don't use a x acto blade though for most flash or mold lines. Have you seen SMS ceramic scrapper? https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/products/ceramic-scraper its pricey, but it's amazing. Impossible to gauge the plastic when cleaning or any mistake you can make with a X-acto blade. Best part is you can't cut yourself even though it's super sharp. Was you able to fix the roll bar?

Micro mark sells some and AK has some. You could get some TCP global paper paint strainers and just take out the filter part and put on the bottle of paint under the cap.

Oh I'm still learning too man. I haven't been in the hobby that long like less than a year, and i watch, read, and learn as much as i can. I turned my old bedroom at my parents house into a hobby room - like literally remodeled the whole room new flooring etc lol. Dang room looks like a store with kits and paint and legos lol. Anyways this is my next project I'll be doing sometime soon - the 62 ford thunderbird "flash" galore haha. I have the photo etch set for the kit too as i do with every kit i own just about lol.

Yeah there pretty fragile, and with thin coats yeah you'll burn through pretty fast especially if your clear coats are thin too. But if you burnt through the clear too the color coat than that tells you your clear coats where too thin. You can burn through clear coat fast too, but not that fast unless you're really giving it the grit lol.

No they haven't.

Yeah those checkerboard seats would of been done with this top part

That's beautiful. I just wanna jump in the picture and go for a ride bro.

Yeah that looks great man. I can tell a big difference from your last picture.

Yeah stuff is amazing. It's almost exclusively the only thinner i use lol. I do also have mr hobbys rapid thinner which is great for metallic paints and flat paints.

You should ditch the rubbing alcohol and get some mr hobby leveling thinner. https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-color-leveling-thinner/?sku=T108&gclid=Cj0KCQiAuP-OBhDqARIsAD4XHpf9mUZVLEco-G7H5ziXyf6gBHGJodkjyuQHTojDbsQ5mWD-jBPT0Y4aApQdEALw_wcB

Yeah Mr hobby leveling thinner is amazing. I got 2 big bottles of it lol last a long time. There rapid thinner is good too its for flats, and metallic paints.

You should primer because Mr. Hobby is a lacquer and especially gray to check for anything body related that you may of missed from clean up. I don't know have that color so I'm not sure if it's a light or dark green, but the basecoat color of the primer will affect the shade of the color coat. White primer will make the green brighter and pop more so than a gray or black primer those will just make the green darker. Can't speak on there clear coat stuff, but there primer and paint are fantastic stuff.

I do know with say tamiya X series paints pretty sure the same with there LP range anything gloss color wise needs to be thinned properly and sprayed at low PSI. I remember when i did some side view mirror after the 3 pass with Tamiya X-1 black the gloss just appeared smooth as a babys bottom and mirror finish no orange peel nothing show room quality gloss on side view mirrors LOL. But i mainly use basecoats like scalefinishes on bodies, and never have orange peel. The orange peel will come from the gloss coat 2K or whatever you like to use, because if 2K especially isn't thinned right or sprayed too low of a PSI and heavy coats you will get orange peel. I do all body painting and gloss coats with a procon PS-290 with fan pattern cap, and everything else i do with iwata eclipse i upgraded too a .5 needle setup. There is one trick i read about for lacquer paint like mr hobby is if you get any orange peel just spray lacquer thinner over the base coat and it'll self level the orange peel out.

Seen this kit at michaels and seen it was molded in red and instantly put it back on the shelf lol

https://spraygunner.com/compressor/no-name-by-spraygunner/cool-tooty-airbrush-compressor-with-tank-by-no-name-brand/ Upgraded tooty by no name. Thats all you need.

Well color me impressed

I use sprue goo, Tamiya white putty, and Mr hobby putty in a jar.

I've yet to see a display in walmart too. Crazy at some of the kits on the display how cheap they are when i paid $30+ for some of them. My local hobbytown store sells the coca cola kits for $38 no lie.

You don't need a file to smooth the area where the gate has been removed if properly done right with good nippers - than all it takes is good sandpaper ..swipe swipe and buff with 4000 polishing stick, and it's back to fresh original plastic. I also don't scratch build or do mock ups. I'm a sandpaper guy, but I am thinking about getting micro files though for certain things.

Can be a bit wonky at first, but once the bands are on they'll never come back out the hole unless you do it yourself.

I'm not that big of a fan of files. Only file i own is tamiya for photo etch parts, but I am thinking about getting the micro needle file set from micromark though. Far as cutters go i own the micro mark pair and godhands(red handle), and cheap pair from hobby lobby. I cut the part from runner leaving some of the gate still on the part using cheap nippers, than micro mark to cut the gate off, and than godhand for finishing cut. Barely have to do any sanding if at all. The thing with god hand nippers is the Blue and red handle versions work as a pair. You use the red pair for cutting the gate off the part, and than the blue pair for the last cut that's so flush you'd be hard pressed to see where the gate was attached to the part. This is how they do it in the gunpla world lol. I keep my nippers oiled up to using sewing machine oil. Also the blue handle god hand nippers are so delicate that you better never drop them or the tips will break.

Sweet! I thought it was a hudson at first or something similar.

If you look up the kit you'll see how it's more along the lines of silver/or aluminum along with black. Don't know about a real picture of it though. Best metal colors for that would be Ak, Alcald, or even vallejo metal colors Silver or aluminum.